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did mine today.easy install,the programming was the hardest part.
just a heads up,after the key programming and you hit the lock button
take the key before closing the door.stupid me forgot.thank god for extra key in the house.
 

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Also just completed on my 2013 Express. Very easy install - skipped the PL wiring for now. Wire taps are tough to finagle with 5F degree weather and no garage. Will complete that when it gets a bit warmer out.

Took ~6 programming attempts to finally get her going, may not have helped that I was running Windows on a Mac.

What ended up working for me was:

After the Key2Go programming, if the dball was still blinking orange, it did not program. Close IE, plug the module back into your computer  open IE and try ‘Step 2’ programming again.

Also, anecdotally the wiring on the override switch on my harness was flipped – this was driving me nuts until I finally troubleshooted why the vehicle wasn’t starting. If you're having trouble, give this a whirl - QC on such a new part my be iffy.

Let me know if you have any questions!
 

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Successfully added SmartStart to mine. Works awesome. Ran in to a major glitch though where my Dball 4 pin plug got internally fried during final installation. It tested okay, and still worked after completing activation, but when I went to try it after getting everything in the dash, the SmartStart would receive the command but it failed to execute. Took the Dball out and the computer wouldn't recognize it either, so it's definitely that port. It would still start the truck with 3x lock though.

Went this morning, paid the local shop $80 for another Dball2, and now its officially working. If you choose to go this route, be very cautious. It's odd because most directions state to plug the SmartStart in before the 14 pin harness, but ours states to plug the 4 pin D2D harness in last but doesn't really mention the SmartStart. The guy at the shop stated he plugs all of the SmartStarts in last .... Install at your own risk. I can officially start, lock, and unlock my truck from anywhere with cell coverage, and it does provide an acknowledgement and completed execution from the truck.
 

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Successfully added SmartStart to mine. Works awesome. Ran in to a major glitch though where my Dball 4 pin plug got internally fried during final installation. It tested okay, and still worked after completing activation, but when I went to try it after getting everything in the dash, the SmartStart would receive the command but it failed to execute. Took the Dball out and the computer wouldn't recognize it either, so it's definitely that port. It would still start the truck with 3x lock though.

Went this morning, paid the local shop $80 for another Dball2, and now its officially working. If you choose to go this route, be very cautious. It's odd because most directions state to plug the SmartStart in before the 14 pin harness, but ours states to plug the 4 pin D2D harness in last but doesn't really mention the SmartStart. The guy at the shop stated he plugs all of the SmartStarts in last .... Install at your own risk. I can officially start, lock, and unlock my truck from anywhere with cell coverage, and it does provide an acknowledgement and completed execution from the truck.
Interesting. Sounds like it would be best to unhook the battery on the truck and then plug it all in? Not a very good design if plugging the devices in with a different order would cause failure of a device.
 

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Interesting. Sounds like it would be best to unhook the battery on the truck and then plug it all in? Not a very good design if plugging the devices in with a different order would cause failure of a device.
Honestly I don't know how they expect you to install it. And the worst part about DEI is they want everything to require professional installation so they really don't have a tech support for a normal consumer. I'm just glad I have it working now, and just hope it stays working. If its something anyone is interested in, you can get a factory refurbed smart start for $90 on eBay and the activation is $70/year or $169 for 3 years.
 

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Honestly I don't know how they expect you to install it. And the worst part about DEI is they want everything to require professional installation so they really don't have a tech support for a normal consumer. I'm just glad I have it working now, and just hope it stays working. If its something anyone is interested in, you can get a factory refurbed smart start for $90 on eBay and the activation is $70/year or $169 for 3 years.
Yea, I think they're just trying to protect their installers. I'll have to check out the refurb units. Thanks.
 

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I've been researching this idea and read this thread a couple times to get an idea of what I would be getting into but was wonder what the smart start system is. I briefly perused the internet for the smart start and found the Viper one and another one made by directed which pops up for around 400$. If anyone can shed some light on this that would be great.
 

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I've been researching this idea and read this thread a couple times to get an idea of what I would be getting into but was wonder what the smart start system is. I briefly perused the internet for the smart start and found the Viper one and another one made by directed which pops up for around 400$. If anyone can shed some light on this that would be great.
Smart Start is a cellular device that plugs into your DBALL2 unit to allow you start (lock, unlock, etc.) your vehicle with your smartphone. You have to pay a monthly fee (or long term payment) for the service which is around $4-7 a month, I think. Longer term payment is cheaper. Looks like Best Buy has it for $150 but you can probably find it cheaper. They have a unit with GPS capability to monitor your vehicle location that costs more.
 

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Smart Start is a cellular device that plugs into your DBALL2 unit to allow you start (lock, unlock, etc.) your vehicle with your smartphone. You have to pay a monthly fee (or long term payment) for the service which is around $4-7 a month, I think. Longer term payment is cheaper. Looks like Best Buy has it for $150 but you can probably find it cheaper. They have a unit with GPS capability to monitor your vehicle location that costs more.
You can get a refurbed module for $89.95 off eBay, you need to ground the gray wire (pin 4 from the obdii port is ground, otherwise ground it to the body), and connect the 4 pin harness to a Dball configured for the SmartStart and programmed to your vehicle. Adding SmartStart is the last step. It costs $70 for 1 year or $169 for 3 years. Rkuhl84 is correct that you can get a GPS version as well. The model I added to mine was the DSM200.

Note: the module needs to be activated and previous activated modules cannot be transferred unless permission from the previous owner is granted. It's easiest just to be sure you're buying a non-activated module. You'll need a dealer log in to activate the module as well. First the module is tested and activated by the dealer, and then you receive an email to log in to your account where you will pay for the service and edit your information.
 

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where did you order the db-all2 and the harness from with the x-loader? I want to do this to my truck this month now that the harness is available.
 

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I can confirm that it will work on the 2014 with the T Harness. I installed mine today and it works as advertised.

I did not wire in the BCM wires yet. I actually have a question for those of you who have. How do you release the clips that lock the white and blue connectors in place? I'm not terribly concerned about the parking lights running while remote started and I'm not terribly concerned about the radio turning off when the remote start times out...my power is set to turn off 45 seconds after the truck turns off anyway. So I may skip wiring them altogether.

There is a 3rd wire you can wire in for the hood pin, from what I'm told - it's in the black BCM connector. I'm just not sure if it will do what I'm hoping it will do. I want the remote start to disable if the hood is opened. That way you can't have someone accidentally start the truck while someone is working under the hood.

Here's the information I was given:

Hood Pin purple/lt. blue - BCM under driver dash, black 24 pin plug (A), pin 11.

I'm not sure what color that wire is or which of the BCM plugs is considered A assuming there is more than one black plug since there is an A, I'm guessing there is a B. Be nice to know what color that wire is too so I can cross reference pin 11 and the wire color to be 100% sure.
 

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How do i login to flash my dball2 for RSR. It says i need a dealer login in order to do this, being i bought this online i don't have that access. Do i just do the standard flash? I am stuck on this and really don't wanna pay someone to install it. any help appreciated. Thanks
 

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Got the password thing figured out......but have another question. Does anyone know which wire to tap into at headlight switch for parking lights?


How do i login to flash my dball2 for RSR. It says i need a dealer login in order to do this, being i bought this online i don't have that access. Do i just do the standard flash? I am stuck on this and really don't wanna pay someone to install it. any help appreciated. Thanks
 

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Dball 2 install 2013 ram

Hi, do you have a pic of your two wire tap-ins? Also what is RAP stand for? Thanks

Hey everyone,

The package came a day early and I was able to get it installed. I'll briefly go over what's involved and some of the obstacles I had. I definitely don't think it takes a rocket scientist to install this. If you have a general knowledge of car wiring and using a simple browser interface to load firmware on to a device, you should be fine.

I would highly recommend the harness for simplicity reasons, however it is totally possible to install this module without it. Personally, I'm color blind so that's my hardest challenge when wiring. For the wiring that had to be done, I just had my brother assist me with picking out the right wires.

So whats you will receive from Doug if you purchase his kit:


In a small box, you'll receive the DBall2 in original packaging with universal wiring, the XLoader, the harness, and some simple instructions that take you step-by-step. At this point I had already found the RSR wiring guide so I had an idea of what was involved. Doug's instructions are pretty similar, however they are a little more clear in the order that you should do them.

My first obstacle after reading the instructions were the login credentials for Key2Go. He provides your user ID on the instructions, but states he will email your password. At the time of arrival, I had no password. A quick eBay message to him though solved this. I was worried I was going to have to wait until Monday, but he responded in the late afternoon on Saturday with my credentials.

The wiring diagram on the RSR Install guide displays the harness as it comes, minus a few miscellaneous wires. Before taking it to the truck, I just zip tied the extra loose wires and left the two that I would need for parking lights and RAP OFF loose.

Next came the install of the harness.

1. Remove the two screws at the bottom of the kick panel. The panel pulls out on the bottom, and lifts straight up and out.


2. Connect the OBDII to the harness. The harness replaces the current OBDII connection in the kick panel. Simply unclip it, put the harness OBDII in to the kick panel.


Connect and lock in the tab on the harness to the vehicle OBDII connection.


3. Make the connection to the ignition harness. This will be located on the back side of the key switch. There is a black connector that simply disconnects, connects to the harness, and the harness connects to the ignition. Be sure to follow the diagram and use the correct plugs (T-01 as labeled). Hint: look at the plug on the harness to see how it disconnects. There is a push tab on the side of the plug that faces the passenger side of the vehicle.


4. The trickiest part of the wiring is accessing the plugs connected to the BCM. The BCM is located above the parking brake, pretty much up behind the wheel. You can unplug the required two harnesses. They are on the side of the BCM facing the passenger side of the vehicle. These harness has large locking devices on them, so just be gentle to make sure you have the harness unlocked before tugging. If you have large arms, you might need help with this. In the photo below is the picture of the blue connector, and the white connector is floating behind it. The picture is taken from next to the parking brake. The harnesses only have a couple inches of slack, even after disconnecting the zip tie that the harnesses where held to the body with.


5. Locate the wires required to tap in to. Make sure you look at the harnesses from the wire side as these are how the pins are indicated according to the instructions. This was the next obstacle because usually I solder EVERYTHING due to the reliably and longevity of solder connections. I hate crimp connections, especially on small wires like 18ga, and I especially hate wire taps due to their likelihood of having a poor connection after a period of time. However, in this situation the only way I was getting the parking lights and RAP OFF wire connected, were through the use of wire taps. It would simply be impossible for me to solder in that location, much less strip the wire insulation off without cutting through the wire. Wire taps, in this situation, shouldn't pose an issue.

6. Now the fun part. Install the VIP 4.5 software from the Xpresskit home page. The software uses an IE plugin. You will need a Windows PC with IE. Install is pretty simple, and you will know you have successfully completed it when you receive a window that asks you to plug in your Xloader at this time, and allows you to launch Xpresskit.com.

7. Connect your Dball while on the Xpresskit homepage. You will see the plugin on the top right corner of the page, and your Dball information will load. Mine came with no firmware installed.

8. Login to the Xpresskit website using the credentials provided.

9. Pull up your vehicle using the drop down menus on the top left of the Xpresskit home page.

10. Under the correct Dball module, select the "Config for RSR" link and the plug-in will automatically bring up the firmware wizard. You will want to complete the Key2Go programming option.

11. Configure your Dball. This was probably the nicest part about having an Xloader. You're allowed to change the 3x lock timeout to up to 10 seconds. I have read several complaints about getting the vehicle to recognize 3 locks within 3 seconds. No worries here, as you can change the time to receive the lock commands. I set mine to 6. You can enable heated seats (if applicable) and/or the defroster/heated mirrors with the remote start, and set the temperature for at which point you would like them to come on. You are also allowed to change the run time to up to 60 minutes. There are a few other features in there, but none were applicable for an RSR install.

12. Click next and allow the module to be flashed. After flashing is complete, you will come to a page where Key2Go programming will be required. Go to the truck and plug in your module and follow the Key2Go programming sequence as described in the install guide. Once the programming is complete, unplug your module and take it back to your PC. Once the module is plugged in, refresh the page with the Key2Go request and you will find out if the programming was successful. If it allows you to "Submit Key2Go request" then everything worked. Allow it to finish the programming and this will be the end of the process. Note: It took me 3 attempts to get the Key2Go programming sequence at the vehicle to be recognized by the browser. I read while doing some research that others had the same issue and you are supposed to hit the "Lock" button during the Key2Go programming. I'm not exactly sure when you should hit the lock button, I ended up just pressing lock every time I removed the key from the ignition, including the last time. Between the failed attempts, I did not reflash or reset the module.

13. Go back to the vehicle and plug in your module for the last time. Be sure you plugged the harnesses that you removed from the BCM back in, or you'll get an engine light. If you forget, the truck will still start but your engine light will illuminate and your dash temp will read -40 (I know from experience). Simply recheck your connections, remove the positive battery connection for a couple minutes, and you should be good to go. Press your lock button 3 times, and your truck should start right up.

Some observations:

1. You may ask why pit stop mode is not a feature on this install. Simple answer is with the key in the ignition, the lock button command from the remote is ignored from the truck making this function impossible.

2. Take-over does not occur until your foot hits the brake. With the vehicle started, and your headlights on auto, only your parking lights will be illuminated until you hit the brake. When approaching the vehicle, the headlights will no longer illuminate if your remote start is active, and they will not turn on until you push the brake.

3. There are no safety devices on the remote start, unless you install the hood switch or use the safety switch on the harness. If you're used to Chrysler factory systems, this means doors can be ajar and your low fuel light can be on and the engine will still start. Also note, the engine starts and everything powers on including your radio and your wipers. Pay attention when getting out of the vehicle to your wipers, as this could be an easy way to destroy components if your windshield ices. Factory systems generally don't enable to wipers until the vehicle takeover has been completed.

5. This has been mentioned before. If you disable to horn honk with lock on your settings menu on the EVIC, you won't wake your neighbors up at night when you start your truck. Unfortunately, your aftermarket exhaust still will.

4. Overall, this is an awesome add-on for a fraction of the factory system, and you get to keep the factory remote without any additional modules, unless you want to add a range extender. Installation is extremely straight forward and simple with the harness. Without the harness, installation is still simple as the majority of the wires go to the OBDII and ignition harness, with the exception of the two hard-to-reach harnesses mentioned above.
 

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I did not wire in the BCM wires yet. I actually have a question for those of you who have. How do you release the clips that lock the white and blue connectors in place?
Theres a little release you have to push in, on the top front of the latch. Push that in, the latch swing upward, the plug then pulls out. I found it then easier to slide the connector apart to find the right pin (Another release on the side, I slid my knife in and it slid right apart, find the wire, tap it, then slide it back in) BE CAREFUL when pushing the connection back into the BCM, and pulling the saftey latch down. I actualy broke one of the little gear things on the side that hold it in because I didnt have it all the way in before pulling the latch down, and kind of forced it (thinking it locked into place), and been having issues since. if it doesnt easily come down, keep wiggling it, lol
 

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Thus might be a better question for Doug, but does anyone know if both of the below will work on a 2014 Big Horn? The first one is posted on this thread and someone said it would. Any truth to that? Not doubting anyone, but the price difference would suggest there is a difference. Both are sold by Doug.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/290864627388?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plug-N-Play-Remote-Start-Kit-for-2013-2014-Dodge-RAM-DBALL2-THCHD3-T-Harness-/291110346561?pt=US_Car_Alarms_Security_Systems&hash=item43c7875f41
 
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