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Discussion Starter #1
We all know about the debate on disabling traction control. Can only do it "safely" with a programmer, but it usually resets with the next key cycle. Buttons/sequences don't fully disable it or reset after a certain speed. That leaves pulling fuses, which comes with their own issues. I couldn't find any definitive results on exactly what happens when you pull what fuse via search, so I decided to document it and to help determine which one to put a toggle switch on to disable it without pulling a fuse. This was performed in my 2011 1500 Hemi Sport with the LSD and 3.92's on a wet road (save your "unsafe" comments. I know what I was doing is frowned upon but I did it for the greater good! ;) ).

First I pulled the M37 10A Fuse. This is labeled as controlling ABS/ESP/ST LP SW/Fuel Pump RLY/Sway Bar Feed. Coincidentally the truck wouldn't start since it controls the fuel pump so this one is pointless, at least on my 2011.

Next I pulled the J7 30A Fuse. This is labeled as controlling ABS Valve/ESP. Pulling this fuse gave me quite a few lights on the dash. ABS, BRAKE, Check Engine(I didn't clear it after pulling the M37 fuse so could've been left over), Service 4WD, and Mr. Squiggles. It also disables the speedometer which in turn disables the odometer so not a great result. HOWEVER it DID do an awesome job disabling everything. Easily broke both tires loose and swung the rear end in both directions while feathering the throttle; no nannies! Truck was very agressive and ran great.

Last I pulled the J6 40A Fuse. This is labeled as controlling ABS Pump/ESP. This only gave me the ABS light and Mr. Squiggles. Check engine was still on but still could've been from pulling the M37 fuse and not clearing it. I had my speedometer and odometer back. This also disabled everything as it should have, again it lit up both rear tires and swung side to side with no corrections. Didn't seem quite as agressive but that could have just been me.

Put the fuse back in and all lights went out with the exception on the Check Engine. Used my Trinity to clear them and all was good and safe again. If I ever find a clean and factory-looking way to install the toggle switch, I will do so on the J6 fuse. I hope this helps some people and stirs up some discussion as well!
 

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Sold.!!!!!! I'm gonna grab a nice toggle switch this weekend and start ripping it up!! Thanks for the write up, been waiting for some evidence for this mod. Yea I said mod!! Anyone who actually "drives" will enjoy this. For those who feel this is unsafe , you know where the door is..... Stay inside!!!! Or go buy a Prius!!! People have become such yuppies.... Ok that's the end of my rant, can't wait to burn up these tires!!!!
 

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Sold.!!!!!! I'm gonna grab a nice toggle switch this weekend and start ripping it up!! Thanks for the write up, been waiting for some evidence for this mod. Yea I said mod!! Anyone who actually "drives" will enjoy this. For those who feel this is unsafe , you know where the door is..... Stay inside!!!! Or go buy a Prius!!! People have become such yuppies.... Ok that's the end of my rant, can't wait to burn up these tires!!!!
I'm in on this too !!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No problem guys, glad I could help! I know how frustrating it can be to try to research things and never be able to find a definite answer in black and white. Figured there had to be more than just me looking for this!
 

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Does anyone know if the J6 40A is the same fuse for a 2015?
 

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Haha I will when I have time to get loose. Maybe this weekend!
 

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I think what it does is disables the ESP/TC functions. If you start to skid/slew there won't be any reduction in engine power or automatic application of the brakes.

On a side note. On Jeeps there is a electronic box (can't remember the name right now) that detected sway/skid/slew and roll over that controlled the ESP/TC systems. someone figured out which wire that went to it to install the switch in that disabled everything. Our trucks probably have this same black box and could be modified lust like the Jeeps if someone had a wiring diagram to figure it out and knew the location of the box. On the Jeeps it was under the center console.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Forgive me for the dumb question - but what exactly is this accomplishing? Just giving you more power to the tires or??
It's just removing the "nannies" as some call it that limit wheel spin. Gives you the ability to have fun hooning in the mud or doing true burnouts and whatnot. Definitely will help when getting stuck in the mud or snow when you need wheel speed to get going. As far as I know it doesn't disable the torque management so there's still no "easy" solution to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think what it does is disables the ESP/TC functions. If you start to skid/slew there won't be any reduction in engine power or automatic application of the brakes.

On a side note. On Jeeps there is a electronic box (can't remember the name right now) that detected sway/skid/slew and roll over that controlled the ESP/TC systems. someone figured out which wire that went to it to install the switch in that disabled everything. Our trucks probably have this same black box and could be modified lust like the Jeeps if someone had a wiring diagram to figure it out and knew the location of the box. On the Jeeps it was under the center console.
You are absolutely correct but I recall reading a thread elsewhere saying that the wiring for the "black box" is different, and the wire that the Jeep guys are splicing into doesn't exist in our trucks. If you try to alter the wiring on ours they say it will cause major issues with the truck that can only be fixed via dealer. But like I said that's just what I read. I haven't tried it myself so I cannot confirm it.
 

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now on my 2016 PW here are the fuses and what the owners manual says...

F06 40 Amp Green – Antilock Brakes/Electronic Stability Control Pump
F26 30 Amp Pink – Antilock Brakes / Stability Control Module /Valves
F76 10 Amp Red Antilock Brakes / Electronic Stability Control

so maybe on th the '16's you might be able to pull the 10 amp fuse, it doesn't say fuel pump, fuse F70- 30 amp is fuel pump motor
 

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Discussion Starter #14
now on my 2016 PW here are the fuses and what the owners manual says...

F06 40 Amp Green – Antilock Brakes/Electronic Stability Control Pump
F26 30 Amp Pink – Antilock Brakes / Stability Control Module /Valves
F76 10 Amp Red Antilock Brakes / Electronic Stability Control

so maybe on th the '16's you might be able to pull the 10 amp fuse, it doesn't say fuel pump, fuse F70- 30 amp is fuel pump motor
Possibly, but you being a 2500/Power Wagon/6.4 could make a difference as well.

Regardless, you might be correct, that would be the first fuse I'd pull if I were you and see how many lights you get.
 

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Here's data regards my 2016:

Disabling or Turning Traction Control off and on:

F26 (30 amp - Antilock Brakes - Stability Control Module - Valves) is the fuse to pull.
Or
Complete this mod to turn it off and on, on the fly:
Wire in a 30amp fuse from F26 socket * to a 30amp NC (normally closed) relay.
Wire in a dash on/off switch to control the relay. Or, I used a remote controlled wireless switch
to control the relay and linked it to a HomeLink (garage door) button. This saves the trouble
of pulling wires into the cab and installing a switch.

* I modified a 30amp fuse by cutting the top off, cutting the bridge wire and wired to the
relay via the new in line fuse. Be sure of what side of the F26 socket is 12v
I modified the fuse because I could not find an adapter to fit the F26 Fuse Socket

You know when it is off because the EVIC dislpays "Service ESC" and "Service ABS"


F76 fuse (10 amp - Antilock Brakes - Electronic Stability Control) - DO NOT PULL THIS ONE!
EVIC displays "Service ESC" and yellow engine (MIL) light.

F06 (40 amp - Antilock Brakes - Electronic Stability Control Pump) - DO NOT PULL THIS ONE
Leaves error codes that have to be cleared.
 
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