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Alrighty laddies, I know there has been much discussion on the Borg-Warner (isn't it Aisin-Warner now?) 44-44 full time transfer case on the higher end Rams, and dissatisfaction with the clutched engagement mechanism it uses compared to the locked mechanism used in the part time 44-45. For a little more information, the link below has a breakdown of the 44-44's innards:

http://www.transmissiondigest.com/members1/online/issuepdfs/TD201504.pdf

If you haven't seen the threads on it, there are at least 4 that I know of, so I will not revisit them, they are easy to search for using Google or the site search.

The article linked above states a couple things, primarily that a) Rockland Standard Gear is working on a kit to convert the 44-44 to a part time case that will go for about $800 (I think I misquoted it as $600 in another thread or two, sorry guys:str:) and that b) the 44-45 case is a direct swap replacement. Either way you lose 4 auto, but for a lot of guys that doesn't matter, and as long as you know how 4wd works in a locked t case system you shouldn't have any problem preventing driveline binding. For those that don't know well....caveat emptor.

Anyway, while I have never had any problem getting through anything I have thrown my thundering steed into, I do live rather close to the coast and drive a good amount on sand. I am not sure how long a clutched case will live under those conditions, and even though it has never presented an issue for me I think a part time conversion would be a good next mod...because let's be honest, most of us are always on the hunt for the next one :shy:, despite what we tell our wives. If I had the choice I'd have probably chosen the 44-45 from the factory, but in 2013 it wasn't an option on trucks with the 8 speed (maybe the Outdoorsman but that was a smidge out of my price range) Also the kit will use ATF+4 which is more available and cheaper than the BW 44-44 fluid, but we will get to that later.

To that end I set off in search of information (price, ease of installation) that could help me decide whether to get the RSG kit or swap in a 44-45. I was unable to find anything on the RSG website about it (or anything for a post NVG case Ram for that matter) so I shot them an email (they sent me a reply (top) with answers to my questions in bold (below)), I have redacted the names.


[FONT=&quot]I MADE THE KIT IT WORKS PERFECT A TRUE LOCK 4WD CAN I GET A NUMBER TO CALL [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]ALSO ADDED BELOW[/FONT]

To whom it may concern,

I currently drive a 2013 Ram 1500, it is a Lone Star 4x4 which means it has the Borg Warner 44-44 transfer case in it. I read an article a few months back that stated your company was developing a kit to convert the 44-44 to a part time transfer case, and I am interested in finding out more about it. From the Transmission Digest article I read it should have been released last May.

Specifically, I would like to see the installation instructions to know what all is involved in the installation. I HAVE ONE READY TO SEND U Also, will the transfer case still use the OEM 44-44 specific fluid with the kit installed, or will it be able to use ATF+4 since it will no longer have a wet clutch? ATF+4 Lastly, I haven't seen any information on where to buy it or what it costs. Is it for sale on your site somewhere? I WILL SEND U THAT TO U


He also sent this (unfortunately this site has no more info than the RSG site did):

LOOK THIS OVER
THANK YOU
GEORGE
TRANSFERCASE UNLIMITED INC.
265 CORTLAND STREET
LINDENHURST NY 11757
SHOP 631 226 1448
EMAIL [email protected]

WEB SITE WWW.TRANSFERCASE.COM



With the following attachments:











I told him I am currently deployed and at least 6-7 months out from doing this, I was just trying to figure out whether this or a 44-45 swap would be a better option, to which he replied:

Just heads up the kit I make is much stronger then a 4445 complete unit. The parts in the 4444 because of the clutch, it has a thrust bearing and larger main shaft and bushing on the 4wd drive gear. I have both units apart so u can compare yourself the kit will 635.00 shipped

So I guess $600 was a closer estimate after all.


Anyway the point of this thread was to get info out there about the conversion kit since I know a lot of guys were really curious about it, and I'm sure plenty of you are chomping at the bit for one. Also, the more of y'all that buy one, the better the chances are that it won't be discontinued by the time I get around to doing this myself. And also someone will hopefully post a thread on how the install went for them :shy:.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Continued...

...to attach the installation instructions. I expected them to be written more professionally (like the emails I think he sent from his phone), but it does not seem too difficult as long as you can remove the transfer case and reinstall it. Does anyone know how involved that would be by any chance?

This is also where I found that the kit uses ATF+4; it just says ATF actually, but the 44-45 uses +4 and IMHO that's the kind to use.
 

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This is great news. I am getting ready to buy a 2016 Outdoorsman just so I can get the good transfer case. The problem is finding an Outdoorsman is almost impossible. OTOH Laramie's are available everywhere. I can easily save more than the 800 for the conversion kit just on the fact that I can negotiate much better price on a Laramie than an Outdoorsman (if I ever find the one I want).
 

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Thanks for the update. So i am a little confused, this is just a bolt in complete transfer case replacement? If so, seems to be a very reasonable price. And it will actuate just like stock? What happens when i select 4WD Auto on the transfer case selector?
 

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Thanks for the update. So i am a little confused, this is just a bolt in complete transfer case replacement? If so, seems to be a very reasonable price. And it will actuate just like stock? What happens when i select 4WD Auto on the transfer case selector?
You disassemble the transfer case and replace the main shaft and some of the other internal parts, it is not a complete transfer case replacement. The stock actuator motor still works, however I am unsure whether pressing 4 auto would result in it going into 4 lock or not engaging at all. Due to the way the stock case works I am inclined to believe the former.
 

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Wow, with as long as the "my truck isn't a real 4x4" threads are I really expected a lot more comments on this thread. Probably because I posted it in the (less busy) 4x4 section and not GD.

:doh:

Maybe its TL so most DR:LOL::4-dontknow:
 

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I like this idea but after being very impressed off road I am just gonna keep this in mind if my stock tcase ever fails, may be a good time to beef it up like this. But I am sticking withmine for now. No sand driving though...
 

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Also, does anyone know what all is involved in removing the transfer case? Is it just removing the driveshafts and motor, and dismounting it from the transmission and whatever bracket it is mounted to? Does it involve changing transmission fluid (will any leak out) or are there any special balancing procedures I'll need to do when it is remounted?
 

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Also, does anyone know what all is involved in removing the transfer case? Is it just removing the driveshafts and motor, and dismounting it from the transmission and whatever bracket it is mounted to? Does it involve changing transmission fluid (will any leak out) or are there any special balancing procedures I'll need to do when it is remounted?
Easy peasy lemon squeezy...

The t-case is bolted to the rear of the trans with four bolts. Remove the driveshaft, and then the t-case bolts and slide it off. If you tip it down on the driveshaft side you can expect it to leak. The transmission is sealed separately. If it is like most set ups there is no bracket, it just hangs off of the transmission. No special procedures though I would mark the driveshaft on the diff end so it goes back in the same place.

Once you can put eyes on it you will see it is a pretty simple operation.
 

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Easy peasy lemon squeezy...

The t-case is bolted to the rear of the trans with four bolts. Remove the driveshaft, and then the t-case bolts and slide it off. If you tip it down on the driveshaft side you can expect it to leak. The transmission is sealed separately. If it is like most set ups there is no bracket, it just hangs off of the transmission. No special procedures though I would mark the driveshaft on the diff end so it goes back in the same place.

Once you can put eyes on it you will see it is a pretty simple operation.
Just what I wanted to hear, thanks:smileup:
 

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I like this idea but after being very impressed off road I am just gonna keep this in mind if my stock tcase ever fails, may be a good time to beef it up like this. But I am sticking withmine for now. No sand driving though...
I'm up in the air myself. The only downfall I've seen myself is these crappy stock tires. Though I haven't tried sand yet.
 

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MuzzleFlash, if you get the Bilsteins up front at 2.1 or 2.8 and some good AT tires, you will be very impressed as well. Check my profile "About Me" for full mods list. Also check my "threads started by" for a how to on putting all three skid plates on.
 

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MuzzleFlash, if you get the Bilsteins up front at 2.1 or 2.8 and some good AT tires, you will be very impressed as well. Check my profile "About Me" for full mods list. Also check my "threads started by" for a how to on putting all three skid plates on.

Thanks I will check those out. I got the two skid plates (front and t-case) and the cross member to install the T-case plate. Just got the tow hooks delivered. Will be a project here in a few weeks. Along with a cabin air filter that the wife wants me to install before my son is born june 1st, lol.

How hard was the front kit to install? I don't really want to go with a larger tire, how does the leveling kit look with the stock size?
 

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I think it would look great with stock size. I am only 1" larger than stock.

I didn't install the fronts. But many on here have. Its doable if you can dedicate the time and have the tools. For me, it was worth the $250 or so (I forget but I know I posted it at some point) I paid to have someone else do it and put on the mevotech UCAs. Current opinion on here seems to be that the UCAs are not needed for the Bilsteins. Only the spacers. But a couple months ago it seemed like less consensus and I wanted to be safe since I do take the truck off road, its no pavement queen.
 

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IMHO the 34 vs 33" tires make a fair difference for a leveled truck, though less so at 2.1 than 2.8, and at 1.4 a 33" tire looks fine. 34s just have a subtle bit more meatiness to them. I did not install my 4600s myself though I do not think 5100s would be any more difficult, but now that I know more about IFS 4wd setups I might be willing to save myself the install cost. I certainly won't think less of you for going somewhere.

Dallas, it sounds like you need to take a little fishing trip down to Padre and try out your truck at some sand driving. Actually, that may be a bit of a drive for you (it was only like 3 hours when I still lived in TX) but surely there's some place.

Back on topic: while I was looking around the web last night trying to find out more about what is involved in t case removal and installation, I stumbled upon this:

http://www.tomwoodscustomdriveshafts.com/DodgeRam.asp

IDK if any of you have looked under your truck and seen the (weird) CV joint on the front driveshaft near the T case end, and I have personally never heard of any issues with it other than it wearing out after a decade or so (really the boot, like on any CV); but this guys driveshafts are spoken very highly of among Jeepers. Evidently the double cardan is pretty near bulletproof.
 

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Cool glad someone is following up on this. Keep reading about this guy putting a kit together and am interested myself if or when it comes out.

Wondering if anyone has successfully installed a 44-45 in place of the 44-44. Everyone says it should be a direct swap but have not seen any first hand experience of it working smoothly.

As for tom woods shafts are definitely no joke. Not sure any 1500 is going to really need one. Alot of times guys that lift their trucks high and have a lot of suspension travel on straight axles get these custom axles. Not much slip travel needed on a ifs trucks..... And unless your putting out crazy hp i would assume the stock shaft will be fine.

Edit: Sure this isnt getting much attention being i have never been to this section of the forum before I was doing some googling and it brought to this thread. Im definitely subscribed now.
 

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Wonder how this mod would effect warranty. I was told everything that fluid touches in the drive train is covered for the 100,000 miles. Interesting to find out if the transfer case would still be good to go.
 

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I'm sure the warranty would be void on the t-case if you modded it but that would not affect the warranty on the rest of the drive train.

Thanks Thunderhorse for posting this up and the link to Transmission Digest. I had tried to find that awhile back. If it's correct, the 44-44 really does lock in 4WD lock just like it should, it's just that it's going through a clutch that is not up to heavy loads. That is sure how mine seems to work the couple of times I got to use it in snow this winter. I have no intention of plowing snow or spending a lot of time in sand so I'm perfectly happy with my 44-44 as is. But it's nice to know there is a reasonably priced mod out there to convert it to a clutchless mechanical lockup.
 

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Yeah right now I'm thinking I may buy the kit when I get home and hang on to it until my powertrain warranty is up in a couple years
 
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