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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help!
Hi all, hope someone can steer me in the right direction with this?
02 ram 1500,4.7
Just got the truck yesterday and its not running,i bought it knowing it had motor problems so it may be toast?
119000 miles on it..the (kid) i bought if from said the truck had the typical bad head issues so he he put brand new heads on it,but i think he may have botched something...this is what happens...you need to floor the gas pedal and crank the engine,it sounds like spark plugs are missing when cranking...it makes a put put put sound.
Once is starts i need to race the heck out of it to keep it running and i am hearing a tick from the driver side valve cover. He said when he put the new heads on it it ran good for a week then died,
I did the key the key game and it has some lines and says done(no code)
Is it possible that the heads need adjustment after running for a while?
i know i am not giving much info at this point but i need suggestions
I'm gonna do a compression test and see if i can find specs for coil voltage etc.
Any input is welcome
thanks
 

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If he replaced the heads I'd check to see that timing is correct. Also, there was recently a member on here that did the same job and he used an aftermarket (poorly made) timing chain kit and it wouldn't run right. He swapped for the oem version and fixed the issue. He posted pictures of the quality control and it was pretty impressive how bad the aftermarket pieces were manufactured. Just a thought on what it could be...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply sn
I'm kinda old school and remember timing being done via distributor turn?
How is it checked/adjusted on a newer engine?
i'm not sure if he did the timing chain but if he did and whacked the timing that way it makes sense,I came home from work tonight and tried to move it up a slight hill in reverse.....the truck feels like its running on 4 cylinders...no power at all!
And it is smoking some.
Looks like i have alot of work ahead
:}
 

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The engine is distributorless. It has individual coil packs on every cylinder. There are crank and/or cam position sensors and it is all pretty much adjusted electronically (assuming the base timing is set correctly). I'm not REAL familiar with the setup on these engines but that's how it works in a nut shell. The engine has a camshaft on top of each cylinder head and they are driven by chains. To replace the heads you have to remove the chains and the cams. If the chain is off by one tooth when replacing it all it can cause poor running as well. I'd check spark and fuel first since their easy, then move on to compression and then timing. I'd be it's a timing related issues though.

EDIT: Do you have any check engine lights or anything else going on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
no check engine light
when its running oil pressure sits right in the middle.
kinda weird he said it ran fine for a week after the heads got replaced and just died on him.
i'll do the basics first and go from there,compression,sparrk etc.
ughh
 

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Your 4.7 has 3 timing chains, and they are absolutely terrible to time properly. If the timing goes out, they often bend a valve of 6. :str:

There is also an issue with the rockers/lash adjusters to watch for. This is a great time to invest in a chiltons manual or similar. When you read the part about cam timing, it looks straight forward.....but it's not. There are enough angles to see through that the optical illusion of parallel has caused many a mechanic a few sleepless nights.

Here is a link to the 4.7 Heads/Cams from the 2003 service manual. It applies to yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hey guys
Had a littl while to play around with it....heres waht i find.
Looks like i can pull off all the coils packs on the drivers side and the front two on the passenger side and it still runs the same....not good looks like i'm running on two cylinders?
pulled off the dome covers to find the cam pully wobble when its running,looks like the pin got sheared off but still looks to be aligned still...plugs look new etc...i have seen a lot of people talking about the chan with dots and stuff,my question now is...do i have to pull the whole front of the motor off the check for timing or can i crank the engine and align up the balancer mark and reset the cams????
does this make any sense?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hard to believe i know,all coils off except the two rears on the pass side and it will start if i floor it and crank it for a while.
It wont stay running unless i play with the gas,i am able to keep it running at 2000 rpm but of course it smokes like crazy.
 

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Yikes!

First I would do a compression test to see if you have any bent valves. Then I think you will have to remove the front of the motor and water pump and take a good look at the cam timing. There should be NO wobble of the cam gears! That right there tells me something is amiss. As long as you don't have any bent valves you should be able to fix the cam problems without too much pain. Good luck.:smileup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey guys...here is where i'm at.
Pulled off the front on the motor,timing gears and chains were way off according to the haynes manual!
Got it running on its own.....not good but running....still made a putt putt sound.
after a few moments it died.
went to start it back up and all it did was click click click.
pulled the driver side head and found a broken valve that jacked up the head and put a hole in the piston(nice) huh?
Guess its time for a new motor or rebuild......question is...can i put a different motor in it without much pain?
junkyard wants 2 grand for a motor....thats a big gamble...i know
3 grand for a rebuilt motor....no gamble and its new.
I found a 5.2 older ram motor cheap online....will it mate up to the trans?wiring?mounts? etc?
anyone?
 

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That sucks, valve likely bent because the idiot set the timing wrong. I assume they are interference engines allowing valve to piston contact.

Why not rebuild the current engine yourself? Or pay someone to rebuild it. That probably would only cost about $1,000 and you could make a few upgrades while you're at it.

I would highly recommend not going to the other engine because fuel economy will be worse and you won't gain any power. If you are going to swap to another engine, definitely make it the hemi. The hemi has more power and doesn't get bad mpg. The 4.7L will get the best mpg of any of the engines though, and will have more power than the others (except the hemi). I know the hemi and 4.7L share transmissions (545rfe) so either of those are interchangeable as far as bolting up, I don't believe the other magnum engines use the same transmission. You'd also need wiring harness, pcm, etc...

A swap would be more expensive for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah, i was figuring the same thing.
I believe the head can be saved as long as the valve seat is ok.
While it's out i may as well do the oil pump and bearings,i'll probably only replace the broken piston.
only other option is to part it out and see if i can re coupe what i have into it(600) bucks
 

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Yeah just get one of those master rebuild kits for a few hundred bucks and put all new seals, gaskets, and bearings in it. The crank, rods, and pistons (except the one) should be fine. Put new rings in it, new oil pump, new timing set, and just get the heads checked and if they are ok just replace the one bent valve. Should be able to do all that for under $1,000 or at least very close to it. You could also do a quick port/polish on the heads while they are apart for basically free and gain a few hp. Wouldn't be a bad time to shave the heads a hair either to get a higher compression ratio. Maybe have a machine shop work the heads over. Maybe some shorty headers....?

I'm spending money for you....lol

Really though you could probably do all that for under $2,000.
 

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I don't know. I bet Nick at airram can hook you up with a quality rebuild kit for a good price. He has a website I think it's airram.com. You could call and ask him if he sells a master rebuild kit, or browse his site. He probably has pistons and valves as well all though I'm not positive about that. If he doesn't have it he can tell you where to get it though. Be careful buying aftermarket with certain items like timing sets, they can be poor quality and cause issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey guys
pulled the motor out this weekend......That was the worst engine pull of all time!!!
Pulled out the busted piston and cant get out the wrist pin....some say there is a c clip?.....some say press fit?
Anyone?
The rest of the block looks good,not sure if i'm gonna do the rings and bearing yet as they look really good.
 

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The wrist pin is press fit. :(
 

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in my oppinion,I would not crank it any more.you are probably doing more damage to moving parts than you realize.i find it hard to believe that it ran for a week with an un-torqued cam sprocket bolt.if it is torqued,it was put back on bent and got that way when he replaced the heads..i would pull the covers and roll the engine around to TDC and look at the sprockets,if the dot on the chains does not line up with the dots on the sprockets.then you will have to pull the timing cover off and check the the dot sequence down there also..in order to do that you will have to pull the radiator and front cowling and all the items on the front of the motor...i hate it for you but that's where you would need to go...i would check all the other info from the other guys also because you may get lucky and find the problem topside and i hope you do...Good Luck,,,Ryder
 
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