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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay I get this 96 dodge ram 1500 with 160k for 800$ ya me... What I was told it needed was a radiator thermistat and tinkering. But for 800$ I was expecting more. Put in new radiator thermistat waterpump hoses etc. It was the original waterpump and the fin had broken off. so got her all back together then....... the serpentine belt was making horrible noises not as bad as when it had coolant all over it but still bad. The one rib jumped over the pulley and no noise sounds good. but...... That cant be good. The pulley itself is not wobbling or anything. So Im worried. What do you guys think serpentine belt? or harmonic balancer? What not?


This is not the only issues with the truck im just working on one at a time.
It came with ratchet straps.... Holding up the gas tank...lol
I already fixxed that. The coolant was muddy water. the Diffs had no fluid but the rear one had a black jello substance in the very bottom. the t case was dry and the transmission fluid was black. Shifts great but black. Im doing a flush and filter when im done this. changed the diff fluid and tcase fluid new straps for the tank new cooling system. And Ive already got 13qts of atf+4 with a filter + gasket ready to go.
But now that ive looked at these rotors looks like I will be replaceing the rotors drums pads shoes maybe calipers and drum cylinders and internals.
Have you ever seen rotors this bad I never have. Thanks guys
 

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I would suspect the bearing in the idler pulley, they are known to wear out

I have seen other rotors like that
usually off of a farm or ranch vehicle or a female owner that didn't ask anyone about the strange squealing noise
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The idler is new. Did the same with the old one. I tried a different tensioner with no result. The serpentine belt just wants to ride with one rib on the side of the cs pulley.
None of the pulleys wobble. It seems like the cs pulley is out of line with the others evenly. Has me at a bit of a loss.
 

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No, no, no I have to chime in.

The problem is a worn tensioner pulley. As the tensioner gets worn it tends to lean outwards and forms a conical surface. The belt travels towards the small end and comes off. Especially when it is wet and/or raining out.

Take a look at where the belt is riding on the tensioner and note that there should be a wear mark where it used to ride. Or you can put the belt on and spray it with a garden hose and actually watch it come off.

Get back to us and know how it develops. Change the entire tensioner with a new pulley to rectify the worn/weak spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just swaped another off my 5.2 same problem it never comes off just one rib. Turned the belt around didnt come off sounds like crap but didnt come off. Perhaps it was originaly the problem but being left alone for so long I believe it has warped the belt . Its all on now and not coming off but that bad serpentine belt noise is horrible.
Its all coming to me now I bet it was the original waterpump I took off. that thing had a ton of play. I cant imagine why people do these things to cars. Why own a vehicle if your not going to maintain it. I found more belt dressing and stop squeek than the value of the waterpump.
 

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You said idler was new, but you said tensioner was used? You still can't rule-out the tensioner. I had a stuck tensioner, lubed it, worked it around. Thought it was ok. In a few weeks, still sticky. Someone here cautioned me about that, and they were right. New tensioner is a good start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I replaced it new once then I replaced it again with the one off my 5.2 that I know is good. Both times no result. Im waiting on a new serpentine belt in the mail.
 

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Torque down the center bolt holding the Harmonic balancer. Just a thought..... the SRT10 balancer bolt will backoff and create a belt misalignment.......You have a pulley that isn't aligned with the others
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey all I just got an email from youtube. When this first started I attemtped to make a vid so I could post it. It didnt work but they mailed me to tell me they fixxed it so here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mj3km65n9q4
Excuse the crappy audio the fan makes it sound awful. I believe it was the cam I was using. Again before some one new sees this I have replaced the tensioner and idler. Im getting a new belt in the mail soon. Perhaps after sunrise I will get a chance to loosen and retorque the crank pulley. Thanks again
 

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I changed the timing belt on my wife's car (04 PAC) and it did the same exact thing... It turned out to be that the Harmonic Balancer wasn't all the way seated and pulley was out just enough to cause it to do that... I would check the bolt and make shure it is torqued correctly. I used the wrong amount of torque and it wasn't enough to seat it all the way. Hope you get it solved
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You are correct green 01. It was the crankshaft bolt it was loose about 8 turns. Wasn't noticeable because the harmonic balancer was pushing out with the slack. I couldn't shake it or move it by hand but I put my big ratchet on there 1" with a 1" 1/4 socket. I didn't even have to hold the serpentine belt it was so loose. I tightened it down as hard as I could while holding the belt with one hand. But that problems fixed one down many to go. I also discovered my rear drums and shoes are new. Theres just no brake line connecting them. Lol. but that's a bonus that will save me some money. Now I just need a brake line, rotors and pads. Thanks again guys.
 

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No problem bud! Glad it worked out for you! We're here for you if you need anything else. Good luck with the brakes!
 

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As far as the rotors go, I have seen way worse. Way back in the day I worked in a junk yard. We'd see just about anything there. One guy brought in a rotor which was worn all the way through to the cooling vanes at the center of the rotor, mind you just on one side, though. I didn't know it could be run that far without killing something. Just a quick glance at your rotors tells me there is quite a bit of meat on those bones. You might get them mic'ed to see if they can be turned. They are ugly, but not ugly to the point of self destruction or something. I'd be more worried about what the pad looks like myself ... obviously they'll need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Im not even going to make an attempt to save them. I purchased a new set with semi metalic brake pads for 67$ on ebay with free shipping. I was trying to choose between oem and brembro slotted rotors the brembros where only 60$ but Ive never had slotted rotors or anything sporty like that so I went oem for the extra 7$. I just need to check on the calipers.
 

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Good choice. It's amazing how cheap you can purchase rotors for these days ... probably because the Chinese are subsidizing their own crap ... er ... stuff. They work just peachy though.
 

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Please check for un-even wear on the old pads. I.E. angled wear, or more wear on the in-board than the outboard. This is caused by "ruts" worn in the steering-knuckle, by the pads. They recommend replacing the knuckle for this. I have used MIG wire to repair this. Wire-wheel, weld, grind smooth, polish if possible, use "Sil-Glide" on the surface. Hard-facing MIG wire would be best. TIG would be better yet. Try to stay close to original dimension. But it would still be better than putting pads back in the rutted knuckle. If you are handy, this can save you $50, or more for a new knuckle (X2 knuckles!). And save the trouble of removing the knuckle. Sucky job. Get new caliper hardware, and use the Sil-Glide on the proper surfaces also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Unfortunately There is no pad left it looks like there both on bare metal. Thanks for the tip though. Is there anywhere where there are pics posted of this wear and tear?
Thanks

I was surprised how cheap parts are for this truck. I love how easy it is to work on aswell. No more broken fingers. I was also surprised that parts for this are cheaper than my jeep which is odd because there made by the same people.
 

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Hi Maine! I have no pics for this, but when you remove the pads, you will see the surface that they ride on. If it is heavily rutted, you will have uneven pad wear in the future. Ferd and others actually rivet a stainless plate in this area to use a a slider to prevent wear. Yes, parts for these CAN be cheap, but beware of "Chinesium"! All the discount stores sell to a "price-point", not a "quality-point". Even Napa has had to cheapen their stuff to compete. Example, a $15 rotor for my car from AZ. They had to mine the ore, refine it, cast it, machine it, ship it, and AZ put on their $3 profit. that is what I call "Scary-Cheap"! Unless I am broken-down on the side of the road, I try to order premium parts on Amazon. They end-up costing not much more than the crap at the local "discount" stores. It's no discount if you have to do it twice.
 
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