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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey, I have a 2012 ram 1500 express with quite a few modifications.Today i was wiring in an ignition wire for my Kenwood stereo and i noticed the key fob wouldn't come out of the ignition also the shifter will not move from park. Looking at my owners manual i figured out there is a shift bypass under the steering wheel to shift into drive etc,Which did help now i can drive it only when using the bypass so it still doesn't work and the key isn't coming out. I don't know if it went into lockout and I'm SOL with the nearest dodge dealer 150-200 miles away,And not wanting it to get hauled away and end up paying 700-1000 to fix it.Ive already tried shifting it a few times in a row to see if the shifter wasn't set in park all the way and the key,but nothing is working so far.I even threw my scan tool on it and it isn't showing any codes. Right now i disconnected the battery to see if it does anything.It also said in the manual that they key fob will lock in place if the battery is low or dead, My battery was showing 12v. Just wondering if anyone else ran into this problem and how you resolved it. Thanks
 

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I am no expert on the Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) nor the ignition switch itself, but I do know that the BTSI needs power to unlock (allow a shift out of Park), and the ignition switch will trap the key if there is no power (dead battery). So I suspect that somewhere you must have disconnected the 12V power to the ignition switch and the BTSI.

Maybe undo whatever changes you made to tap in your stereo, and see if that corrects it?
 

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I am no expert on the Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) nor the ignition switch itself, but I do know that the BTSI needs power to unlock (allow a shift out of Park), and the ignition switch will trap the key if there is no power (dead battery). So I suspect that somewhere you must have disconnected the 12V power to the ignition switch and the BTSI.

Maybe undo whatever changes you made to tap in your stereo, and see if that corrects it?
Gday sir.....i have a 2012 2500 diesel, having same issue ( no mods ) Fob is stuck and no ingnition. batteries are charged in truck . How can i get fob out to try the other one? thnx
 

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Can you turn the fob to the ON position? Does the dash show trans in Park?
There is a shift lever override (see your owner's manual) that will allow you to move the shift lever out of Park. Try moving the shift lever to Neutral and then see if you can start it there.
Or is everything like electrically dead?
 

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yes fob turns normally, but acts like truck batt is dead, which they arent
Dome lights work, thats about it.
I was gonna try the other fob to remote start it...
 

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Try the shift lever override and go for Neutral.
I'm guessing the PRNDL is not registering correctly that the trans is in Park. That would inhibit it from starting, and also prevent fob removal.
If it starts in Neutral, then shift firmly into Park and verify that the dash shows "P". If so, then try shutting it off and see if the fob will then come out.
 

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Then I'd say you likely have some electrical problem outside of the trans. Maybe check fuses and relays in the black box near the battery.
 

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Ram 1500 5.7L, 4x4 CC, Sh.B, 3.55G, Laramie(level5) 105K, K&N Intake, 90mm TB, not enough character
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I’ve had this happen before when I was working on installing my audio/video components. My guess is that it is part of the security. If the voltage goes lower than (insert value) then the locking mech in the key cylinder will not release the key.
- Drain capacitors in vehicle by connecting unhooked neg and pos terminal for 30 sec. (turn headlight selector to on, fan selector to on)
Reconnect: pos 1st neg last
  • press and hold odometer rest while changing position of key to on
  • continue to hold until gauges reset
Turn off and pull out key
 

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OK thanx....i will try that....will be away from the vehicle for the wknd, but will try that when i get back.
 

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Ram 1500 5.7L, 4x4 CC, Sh.B, 3.55G, Laramie(level5) 105K, K&N Intake, 90mm TB, not enough character
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That’s odd that the guages don’t go thru the reset/calibration process. Both dodges I’ve owned do that when u turn the key with the odometer trip held in. Well...If that won’t release the fob, then next place I’d look Is the trans linkage. That could be as simple as some bushing replacements or a “pulley” stuck open or whatever. My 2002 would not want to go into P a handful of times and it would require me following the cable down thru the truck and basically cleaning it up down there and making sure the linkage could operate properly. A lot if plastic components and not the best environment ya know?
Hell aside from that I don’t know bud. Somebody here is bound to have the answer if I don’t! :)
 

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FWIWorth....it is a Diesel, and it sat for about 4 months.....a small start of a mouse/squirrel nest started on the fuse box by left battery.....scary thot to find a chewed wire?!!
 

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Ram 1500 5.7L, 4x4 CC, Sh.B, 3.55G, Laramie(level5) 105K, K&N Intake, 90mm TB, not enough character
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Ok. I got you. I know exactly what it is now. It’s your power distribution center. Commonly known as your fuse panel. More than likely, that rodent had pissed all over that thing. Piss has ammonia when mixed with oxygen And soft metals like solde, will cause CRAZY oxidation on the female connectors in the PDC. Specifically the multilayered PCB boards that stack directly on top another.

disconnect batt and Get you some evap electronic cleaner

undo the 10mm locknut holding pos cable assembly to battery, and the 2 10mm bolts holding front of the
assembly
The panel willl pop out some so that you can begin to unhook the monster switch plugs inserdneath.
THE HARD PART: (
partially drill out plastic studs holding g the breakfast contamjrl clean EVERYTHING YOU CAN.
 

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Ram 1500 5.7L, 4x4 CC, Sh.B, 3.55G, Laramie(level5) 105K, K&N Intake, 90mm TB, not enough character
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Holy crap my phone just went nuts!!!! 🤣

drill out plastic studs/rivets
Gently pry tabs of panel apart while separating. The PC connecting side will come out with one of the halves. At this point your just separating and cleaning with mild cleanser. Examine the boards look for oxidation or irregularities. Solder carefully as needed. And apply several coats of clear enamel to boards. Reassemble carefully
When that thing goes the damn truck seems to go with it. Good luck
 
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