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Discussion Starter #1
Apologies if this has already been asked, there are so many posts about headers but I wasn't able to find one about shorty headers with a y pipe.

I've been researching headers and keep getting conflicting information depending on the forums I happen to stumble across via google and user opinion. It seems on this forum at least that most people recommend going with long tube over shorty headers, and some people seem to claim they haven't noticed any real gains with just shorty headers. But what about shorty headers and a y pipe? Would that make a difference by adding a y pipe with the shorty headers?

I've already swapped out the factory exhaust with a Flowmaster from the american thunder series and it sounds great, and I've ordered the Magnaflow y pipe from Amazon and I'm currently running the canned diablosport 93 tune. Before I get the Y pipe installed, I'm curious if I will see much benefit from shorty headers with this setup? Or should I consider maybe getting the JBA long tube headers instead of the short?

Ease of install is preferable but not required which is why I was originally considering shorty headers. The JBA long tubes look fairly simple and it doesn't look like any cutting/welding is required. It doesn't come with a Y pipe from what I can tell but I'll have the magnaflow y pipe anyway. I won't be towing very much if at all so heat really isn't an issue either. This is a daily driver vehicle.

Thanks,
Will
 

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2014 8 Speed Hemi 3.92
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4th Generation? This is always a great topic and really depends on your future goals.

To keep it simple I will tell you that if you do not plan on getting a hot cam/tune then stick with the safer shorty headers that are (pretty much) a direct fit. The stock/mild cam will be a more reliable daily driver even on low octane ethanol with short runners vs long tubes which can be picky on O2 sensors and low rpm tuning. There are dynos graphs everywhere that compare the two options, but usually include other bolt-on mods that don't make them apples to apples.

Either way, getting rid of the stock logs eliminates or at least prolongs the inevitable broken manifold studs common with cast iron mating to aluminum. Not to mention 30+ horsepower under the curve is fantastic in the seat of your pants as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So if I were to get the shorty's and the y pipe with my current setup, should I see a gain that would be worth the money?

I'm probably also going to sell my Diablo tuner, it only does canned tunes and won't do custom. I'd probably sell it and get the one that does allow custom tunes so I can also get a hemifever tune.

I can't seem to find any dyno charts for gen 4 rams with shorty's, can anyone provide a link?
 

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2012 Challenger 5.7 before and after JBA shorties. This is a slightly detuned 2013+ Ram 5.7, the truck should see more power because of a better breathing intake system and power transfer.
 

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Correct, Baseline mods were magnaflow muffler and K&N intake(negligible IMO). The only changes between graphs are the header swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Garc, going to see if I can get a deal on a set of JBA shorty ceramic headers. Hopefully I won't run into any broken bolts.

I completely agree about the intake having a negligible impact on performance. I was considering one of those when I first bought my Ram but from what I could find it looked like the intake on the Ram's was already nearly as efficient as most CAI's so the minor (if any) performance increase was definitely not worth the price. The only possible exception being the vararam intake.
 

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The shorty headers will bolt direct to the OEM Y-pipe. I do not know of an off the shelf production bolt-on Y for shorty/OEM headers.
Some long tubes offer full replacement but they usually don’t mate well and end up needing a bead weld seal anyway.
 

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2012 Challenger 5.7 before and after JBA shorties. This is a slightly detuned 2013+ Ram 5.7, the truck should see more power because of a better breathing intake system and power transfer.
This is great info - thanks for sharing. Got plans for shorties once my powertrain expires.
 

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The shorty headers will bolt direct to the OEM Y-pipe. I do not know of an off the shelf production bolt-on Y for shorty/OEM headers.
Some long tubes offer full replacement but they usually don’t mate well and end up needing a bead weld seal anyway.
Im getting ready to do a trans service among many other things at once and since I would probably have to take it out to get to the trans pan I was hoping to put a more free flowing y-pipe on. Maybe ill just use the mig welder while I have it on my dads lift and build one.
 

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Will_OT:
Did you ever try this combo of shortys and y-pipe? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and already have the y-pipe installed. I on the other hand do lots of towing but will wrap my headers in order to lower under hood temperature as well as intake temp. I've just now really started to figure the forum thing out. and apologize for not getting in when this post was newer. My input so far is that the y-pipe does make a pretty good mod, it's more snappy off the line, I have single exhaust and 3.21 gears in my 2017 ram, quad cab. Since the y-pipe installed I hang right up with stockers with duals. Never had a chance to ask any of them what gears they are running but have found no hemi ram that pulled off faster from a start and once we run em up I'v always got the upper hand over 60mph. Mash it at 60 and its maxed by the time I pass the guy in front of me. Mods are: AEM drop in air filter, magniflow y-pipe, flow master flow fx muffler. I feel that the y-pipe was a huge improvement over the stock, the stock y is most definitely the weakest weak link that exists in the whole thing and can't believe people would by shortys and cat-backs without addressing the issue with the y-pipe.
 

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Mart, do you have any photos of your Y-pipe? I'm curious on your routing, 8 speed right?
 

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Figured it out, so it's a really tight spot to get good pictures of... The y pipe often times has a small leak at the crotch that needs a spot of weld, I got it, the 90 and 45 from summit. I really didn't have the guts to weld it up myself since the cats are so expensive, I had it done at a shop and found the welds they did also leaked in a couple places and they were closed that day so I patched the welds up myself with my little welder. All together it ran me just under $300 I'm very happy with it and think it's worth it because it smoothed out my idle. No promises pn fuel economy I work all over the place so I don't have a particular rout I travel and often times I'm pulling a trailer. The performance is definitely better, got the power to pull the trailer much easier, I don't see a huge difference off the line but top end is fast. I believe the torque is greater, probably a little hp too but it's no turbo. If you dynoed the results I wouldn't be surprised if you saw maybe as much as 10hp but the torque would be more substantial.
 

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Will_OT:
<snip>
I feel that the y-pipe was a huge improvement over the stock, the stock y is most definitely the weakest weak link that exists in the whole thing and can't believe people would by shortys and cat-backs without addressing the issue with the y-pipe.
+1



the stock Y is a crimped pos with each bank of the engine necked down to <1/2 of the 3" pipe...
 

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+1
the stock Y is a crimped pos with each bank of the engine necked down to <1/2 of the 3" pipe...

If you are lucky, the way they mash the two 2.5" pipes together gets inconsistent results. In my case the two pipes didn't come through right one 2.5" pipe was smashed more than the other so one was a half moon shape while the other was oval... If it appears that the two are even I don't know if it's really a big deal. I wish I took a picture of it, it was bad.
 
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