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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1996 slt lariame reg cab long bed that has a 360 and is 4wd it currently has 306,250 miles on it with ORIGONAL ENGINE. should i put the money into getting my front end done which is shot or should i just run it like it is until shes done i need some help
 

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I got my truck last year, it is a 97 with 246+K on the odometer, had alot of worn out ssuspensin parts and more. I replaced everything and soon the steering gearbox that is severely worn out, did rust repairs and repainted, Looks like a new truck now. The mileage doesnt matter if its cared for, If you like the truck and want to keep it for more years of enjoyment then shovel the cash into it... If you would rather have something newer/different then thats your choice as well ( save for the change ) but remember, no matter what you own, eventually it will need work, mods done to make you happy.
 

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Well, it depends on your abilities, and the tools you have available. If you must pay others to do your repairs, costs can become prohibitive. Doing your own fix its can be quite inexpensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have all the tools and a shop to work in its just my front end is shot and i really would like a club cab short bed but this truck has never let me down so i can tell you now it will never leave my hands unless it just quits running
 

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For your long tierod and your track rod, go on the web and replace the ends with lukes links, about $70 ea. and you never need ever replace them again, that in itself will save a bundle of cash, if they ever get loose again, they are totally rebuildable. my axle joints were $9 apiece, put your own grease joints in a cap on each joint, more user friendly and much cheaper than joints with the grease joints ready made. If you need brake lines, I'll describe a terrific brake line bender you can make in 2 minutes, if you have a welder and a little bit of scrap iron laying around, you'll still need a double flaring tool though. Gabriel shocks generally have a lifetime warantee, at least from autovalue stores...Your spindle nuts are 1 &11/16, get a deep socket and grind it to thin wall, instead of buying the fancy socket, lots cheaper... The double cardan joint on your front driveshaft is mind numbingly easy to replace, if you have oxygen and acyelene available, just get the ballsocket kit and the two associated ujoints, instead of a rebuilt driveshaft, balljoints are not too ugly, if you have the tools, and are horrendously expensive to have someone else replace, for some reason... not so bad if you do em yourself...I haven't ever rebuilt a steering box, but it can't be too bad, but theres plenty of boxes in junkyards, check donor vehicle mileage, if it's shot and you're replacing...Lotsa cheap ways to keep the ol buggy rolling, I do it cuz I hate paying exorbitant license plate fees on newer vehicles, works for me...
 

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The steering boxes are easy to adjust
I saw it on Youtube & read it on a website
1 locking nut & an adjustment screw
just don't tighten it down too tight, if you feel it getting tight, back off a 1/4 turn, then give it a slow test drive
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
okay other than replaceing my oil pump and the little pump shaft under the distributer i have done all the seals on the engine and timing chain new sprockets and water pump altenator hoses i think shell be alright
 

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Heck, if it's that old, it's probably been paid off for a while. Why not stick some money into it to keep her going as a work truck if nothing else. At the very worst, you've got a reliable vehicle to give to a kid for a first truck or something... Plus, since it is paid off, you can just go get a diff. one if you want one and have that one for a winter driver or something...
 
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