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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy yall. I drive a 83 dodge d150 short bed step side. It has a slant 6 in it. I took out the lean burn system and replaced it with HEI. It ran fine for awhile and then crapped out on me. Later found out I didn't have the coil wire pushed in all the way and it shorted the coil out. So I replaced both the wire and the coil. It runs now but it cuts out and I have had problems with it over loading the wires and melting them.
I have replaced:
Alternator
Coil
Coil wire
Hei module
Voltage regulator
Redid the entire wiring harness
Carburetor
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Spark plugs


It runs great when in idle but when it gets up to 45 or 50 it starts cutting out. It doesn't die it just looses all go power for a split second.

I was speaking to a mechanic the other day and he suggested the ballast resistor. However this truck has never had one on it even when it was running on the lean burn.

So what do yall think sorry for the long winded post
 

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'Fraid not. Your truck did come equipped with a ballast resistor. Having a Slant Six or even the Lean Burn made no difference. Even my Fuel Injected '83 Imperial has a ballast resistor on the ignition. These didn't go away til the late 80's Fuel Injected units hit the scene. It may have been removed by a previous owner, but it definitely left the factory with one. The problem with the wires melting may be due to the differences between the original wiring resistance and what the alien HEI requires (think Ohms), not to mention the wiring was expected to deal with power routed thru the resistor. Even the OEM components will burn out eventually w/o the resistor. Probably cooking your coil. The coil you replaced with.....was it an OEM style or an aftermarket 12V. The stockers only operate at 12V on startup (start power bypasses the resistor, then the voltage is rolled back via the resistor (when the key is in "Run" position). An aftermarket 12V coil is more appropriate to run w/o a resistor, as it is intended to run at 12V full time. As long as the HEI is also made to run at 12V continuously (not all of them are), you should be OK then.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok so I have added 2 more ground cables. I grouded from the block tk the frame and the block to the body.

I am at a loss. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry yall my phone was being screwy and didnt show yalls replies. The coil I put in is an aftermarket accel. The company that sold me the HEI distributor said that I would need a high performance coil
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I may have figured it out. No guarantees yet but I think the sock in the tank may be partially clogged or trying to clog. That would make since I think. It idles fine but when I get any kind of speed anywhere from 45 to 65 it starts cutting out. In my head more speed=more gas= more pressure on the partial clog in the sock. Yall think that may be it?
Im going to put a 2gallon can of gas under the hood and run the fuel line to it and strap it down and drive it and see if that works. Any thoughts ?
 

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An aux fuel can is a good idea to rule out a clogged line. For that matter, could be a tired carb. Doesn't explain melted ignition wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You're right about it not explaining the melted wires. But since I have replaced everything. I'm not sure that it is having that problem anymore. I haven't been able to drive it more than 5 or 6 miles since I fixed everything. I am really hoping that I did fix the problem, I love my truck but I am getting tired of just throwing parts at her and hoping for the best. I haven't been able to test the aux tank yet but I think I may have some time tonight.
 

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Missed the new carb. Yeah, I think you're on the right track with the fuel issue. At the least, you'll have it sorted out and good for the long haul. You also need to consider the bulkhead connector. I had a Ramcharger that would run great, then all the sudden cut off for no obvious reason, only to start up several minutes later like nothing was wrong. Corrosion in the bulkhead connector was the culprit. Once the wiring got heated up it was more likely to act up, especially with a little spirited driving. Don't give up. It can get tedious, but consider what newer truck parts cost. You can spend what would be a single monthly payment on a new vehicle, and completely replace every sensor and relay on an 80's truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all of your help sir. I really do appreciate it. Im going to go buy a long piece of fuel line tonight after work. I will keep you posted!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@gen1dak hey bud I have a possibly stupid question what is a bulkhead connector? Google isnt giving me a good enough explanation. Is it the big plug that all of the wiring harness goes to from the firewall?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Right on. I dont feel quite as stupid now haha. Also I tried the auxillary tank and it worked so i reckon i will be dropping my tank soon
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well i dropped my tank yesterday. The sock was no good at all. Most of it was missing. The intake tube was partially clogged and the return was completely clogged so i think I for sure found the problem. The parts will be in tomorrow but i probably wont be able to fix it until the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok so new problem. Where do yall think I could go to get a fuel sending unit for a 83 dodge d150 slant 6 3.7 liter. It seems that they are discontinued
 
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