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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2001 Ram from my step dad. It had been sitting for about a year with no battery in it. It ran fine when he parked it. Now, it misses, sputters, and sometimes pops when the motor is loaded. I changed spark plugs and wires but nothing changed. Also, it won't run at all hardly if it isn't completely warmed up. I do have a check engine light but that's for a neutral starting switch. That wouldn't affect it would it? Also, the truck only has 75k miles.
 

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A year is a long time for a vehicle to sit not running like chefred said a complete tune up wires and plugs aren't gonna help much if you haven't changed the distributor cap and rotary button if changing those 2 doesn't help change all the fluids and filters including those in the fuel system gasoline can eat up a lot in a year
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The gas is all good now. I ran most of the gas out, dumped in some seafoam, and filled it up with high octane. It runs fine at idle and WOT. Just when the RPM's are midrange with the motor loaded(climbing a hill or accelerating), it does this. Also, it's worse when it's cold. I'll try a cap and rotor to see if that helps.
 

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Try resetting the ECM and don't check the codes with the K3 technique. Disconnect the battery, turn the key to start, and then re-hook the battery. Take it for a ride and get back to us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Changed cap and rotor. No dice. What is the K3 technique? I will try resetting the ECM. Do I leave the key on when I connect the battery again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I reset the computer and it did increase overall performance. It did not fix my problem though. It seems to run the same cold as warm now. I guess I'll find out tomorrow though. Sometimes, it runs better than other times.
 

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Unplug #1 injector and see if it gets worse or stays the same. If it stays the same it's #1. If not try #2. Both are at the end of the fuel rail and have a tendency to get clogged as they are at the ends of the rail (front of engine) and can cause symptoms like you're explaining.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, thanks. I'll try that tomorrow probably as it is late and dark now. It gives me an excuse to drive my '68 Pontiac anyway.
 

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I had a similar problem with mine after changing the rotor. There is a TSB about how the plug wires should be ran to prevent cross fire. #6 and 8 have to be isolated from each other as well as #5 and 7. I am new to this site but surely this is a post about this specific TSB somewhere. Once I isolated these wires truck ran smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So, I unhooked #1 and #2 injectors and it made absolutely no difference in the way it is running. That means injectors are clogged. Are there any good threads on cleaning injectors?
 
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