My 98 Ram Sport 5.9 is stalling out in the middle of driving. It has slowly been happening more and more. After it stalls I pull over and it starts right up no problem. I got codes checked today and there is absolutely nothing coming up. When it stalls, nothing else happens, no noise, no jerking, lights don't go dim, gauges don't do anything crazy.. Everything stays perfectly fine except that the motor shuts off. I don't have a clue were to start with this. :4-dontknow:
Stalls out in the middle of driving
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Joined
·
939 Posts
Broken record here, sorry. Crankshaft Position sensor is the 90% cause of this. Symptoms are stalling at low-speeds in the parking lot first. Then a "bucking" while driving, then full stalls. Then a longer wait-time between re-starts. Are you living this?
Joined
·
939 Posts
Well, if it gets worse, you'll know what it is. It's nearly impossible to trouble-shoot in the early stages because it cools-down, and tests as good by time you get to it. The ckps is the reference pcm uses to set ignition timing, and injector pulses. Without that input, the pcm is lost. The other 10% of the time is the cam sensor, or "pick-up" in the cap. Same symptoms.
truck just dies
Hi, just acquired 1999 2500. Similar to the other post. It happened twice so far. Slowing to a stop and engine dies. The thing that I noticed was that the fuel gauge went to empty , not registering the fuel level, even though the tank
was 3/4 full. Could it possibly be fuel system relay or ignition relay?
The first time it started right up. the second time it cranked nicely, the gas gauge read empty and would not start. Set for 20 minutes, cranked it, fuel gauge popped up to 3/4 and she fired right up.
Hi, just acquired 1999 2500. Similar to the other post. It happened twice so far. Slowing to a stop and engine dies. The thing that I noticed was that the fuel gauge went to empty , not registering the fuel level, even though the tank
was 3/4 full. Could it possibly be fuel system relay or ignition relay?
The first time it started right up. the second time it cranked nicely, the gas gauge read empty and would not start. Set for 20 minutes, cranked it, fuel gauge popped up to 3/4 and she fired right up.
cch, the sending unit that detects the fuel level is attached to the fuel pump which also sits in the tank. If I were you I'd be taking a hard look at the wiring harness going to the tank, especially any sockets/plugs. If one of them is loose it would cause both the connection for the fuel gauge to drop and prevent power from getting to the pump.
Joined
·
52 Posts
First check the fuel pressure should be between 35 to 45 psi...however..
Trust me on this one... My truck did the exact same thing to the T!
Replace the crankshaft position sensor! I just posted this story on another thread..
It is a pita to get to it. If you have smaller arms you may have better luck than I did. After a half day struggle I got it out but ended up having to take it in the my 4x4 shop to have them put the new one in. My forearm just won't fit up that high. It is located at about 2 o'clock on the bell housing.
First time I had replaced it with a auto zone duralast part and it worked for about a month and started acting up again. But I had no grommet in to protect it...
There is grommet that goes in the bell housing around in and it is very important that grommet is in there or the vibrations will just destroy sensor.
After a couple trips to the woods on dirt woods the sensor was toast again. SO this time I made sure there was the grommet and a genuine mopar sensor in there and so far (knock on wood) it has given me 1500 trouble free miles sense
This was the original sensor I took out! It was cracked down the middle and still threw no check engine code!
update on issues
so since i first posted this i replaced a few things and the issue seems to have changed a bit. The random stalling seems to have subsided a bit but now im having trouble starting it and seems to be running rougher. the other day the dash was lit up like a christmas tree and my GEN light was on, it was running terrible and the radio wouldn't work. this led me think it was an alternator issue. then it was fine for a few days. this morning it would not start at all. i messed with it after work and and when i adjusted the battery terminals i was able to start it but it took a few tries and was sounding REALLY rough, lots of smoke out of the tail pipe and a strong smell of gas. This makes me think its not alternator related but must be fuel system related........now im just confused........
Things replaced recently:
-starter replaced early this summer
-cap and rotor September
-plugs and wires September
-ignition coil September
-pcv valve September
-tested battery and alternator. both are fine
so since i first posted this i replaced a few things and the issue seems to have changed a bit. The random stalling seems to have subsided a bit but now im having trouble starting it and seems to be running rougher. the other day the dash was lit up like a christmas tree and my GEN light was on, it was running terrible and the radio wouldn't work. this led me think it was an alternator issue. then it was fine for a few days. this morning it would not start at all. i messed with it after work and and when i adjusted the battery terminals i was able to start it but it took a few tries and was sounding REALLY rough, lots of smoke out of the tail pipe and a strong smell of gas. This makes me think its not alternator related but must be fuel system related........now im just confused........
Things replaced recently:
-starter replaced early this summer
-cap and rotor September
-plugs and wires September
-ignition coil September
-pcv valve September
-tested battery and alternator. both are fine
If you've got a fuel pressure gauge and you know how to check the pressure in the tires then you're all set. Harbor Freight has a decent gauge for cheap, just make sure to use teflon tape when you attach the hose to the gauge.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Join the discussion
