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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
bare with me on this one i just bought this truck a couple weeks ago its an 05 ram 1500 slt with the 5.7 hemi auto and it seems to have a starting issue that just came up its weird when i leave it over night it will fire up fine most of the day but then sometimes il go to start it and it just keeps trying to turn over but doesnt quite make it unless i give it gas then it starts up it runs nice and smooth still doesnt idle funny or stall out just has trouble starting at some points i dont know much about all the codes and what not ive read a few things about a tps reset so i figured id try that, i dont know if the check engine light that came on has something to do with it ? it only has 128000km on it but the check engine light does go off sometimes even when its on it will fire up fine after its been sitting all night i know the owner before me had replaced the wires and plugs they look pretty new not sure if i should be replacing them again though? any help anyone has to offer would be great and id really appreciate it thanks
 

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You really need to see if you have any DTC's, and if so what they are. This will give memebers on here a better chance to help you, otherwise everything will be mere guesses, and of no use to you. Anyway, post up the codes if you can and I'm sure help will be on it's way to you.
 

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down here in the States, we can go a auto parts store & have a person go out to the vehicle & get a half assed idea of the problem using a code reader
it is usually free, unlike the dealership that has the correct code scanner & charges $75 USD
 

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Sorry, DTC stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code, or may be referred to as code. You can cycle your key on and off three times and leave it in the on position the last time. Your DTC should be displayed in your odometer area, that is assuming there are some stored codes. You can also go to many local parts stores and they will scan your codes for free, hoping to sell you some parts. They will do this in the US, not sure about other countries... Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
now the lights off its almost like when i turn the key it just about turns over then doesnt quite get enough power or something but i check the alternator unless its a battery but it still starts i just have to sit there cranking they key for a good 7 seconds before she goes but now that the light is off again i dont think theyd find anything if they checked with there scanner thing
 

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P0700 has to do with the transmission usually
it can also be saying that CODES are stored in the TCM

If you have access to a 12 volt battery charger, leave it on the charger over night & run it for a couple days.
It may be that your battery is low or reaching its life span
 

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P0700 has to do with the transmission usually
it can also be saying that CODES are stored in the TCM

If you have access to a 12 volt battery charger, leave it on the charger over night & run it for a couple days.
It may be that your battery is low or reaching its life span

Like GTyankee says, it is a generic code to tell you to examine the TCM (Transmission Control Module). I'm trying to remember if the 2005 has a stand alone TCM, in any case you need a scanner that will let you look at the tranmission side of the house. Until then it is hard to say, it could be anything from low on fluid, a low voltage concern, a ground issue or a hard transmission fault. What do you battery terminals look like? If corroded clean them real good.

Did you clear the code? If not you might try to clear it and do another test drive, if it keeps setting the P0700 DTC then you definitely need to get into the tranmission parameters to see what the actual trans DTC is. I wish I could help more.... sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
everything is allrunning smooth just if you wait about 30 mins once you turn it off it has trouble starting if i turn it off and right back on it fires perfectly fine battery terminals are clean i guess now its a process of elimination as for the tranny code im not quite sure whether or not to just leave it for abit but the tranny runs and shifts fine and smooth no noises and plenty of fluid
 

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Not convinced your transmission codes will be related to the hard start condition. Have your battery tested at a reputable shop as well as the starting and charging systems. Sounds to me like if you don't have any other codes, it's probably a good bet to start with those systems. Good luck!
 

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Look at the thread I posted to wall go, had the same problem ur talking about. Have bad fuel injectors, on mine when you turn the key off would leak fuel into intake and drop in combustion chamber and choke motor Down. What's exhaust look like is it black. Burning super rich. Mine would never throw a code because injectors would leak when you turn key OFF.
 

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Look at the thread I posted to wall go, had the same problem ur talking about. Have bad fuel injectors, on mine when you turn the key off would leak fuel into intake and drop in combustion chamber and choke motor Down. What's exhaust look like is it black. Burning super rich. Mine would never throw a code because injectors would leak when you turn key OFF.
What Giddyup states is very possible, the one thing that didn't clue into this was you said after sitting over night it would start right up. Usually a telltale sign of injectors leaking is long crank time and once started you will have a slight misfire for a few seconds. There are several ways to prove this; 1. Use a fuel pressure gage, attach the gage and turn on the key allow the fuel pump to cycle. If it's a very fast leak you can watch the pressure go quickly (yours doesn't sound like this) or leave and check it every 15-30 minutes. Normally It should drop down a little but then hold a steady pressure. 2. Let the vehicle sit for the amount of time it usually messes up, hook up a scan tool that will let you see live data and watch the cylinder misfire data. The affected cylinder or cylinders should show a misfire. If this happens long enough it would store a misfire code example P0301 (#1 misfire). Then you would know which injector is misfiring. 3. Pull the injectors leaving the fuel rail attached and cycle the key on and off a few times not trying to start the vehicle and watch the injectors. If they are leaking you should see fuel droplets coming from the defective injector or injectors if more than one is leaking.

The only other possiblity I could think of is a faulty fuel pump not holding pressure after shut down bleeding back into the tank, so that when you go to start there is a delay since you have no fuel (stored) immediately to your injectors. You can use a fuel gage as well for this or after sitting you can turn the key on an off several times allowing the fuel pump to cycle each time (you'll hear the hum for a second or two then quit). Then attempt to start and if it starts right up then you know you have an internal fuel leak. Like I said earlier, injectors leaking usually causes a slight missfire then clears up after it runs a few seconds, and there may be black smoke once it starts. It may or may not be enough smoke for you to notice unless you or someone else goes and watches the tailpipe while it's being started. If it does, it will have black smoke for a few seconds then go away. With a little detective work you'll find the suspected leak. Good luck.
 

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On my truck on reason dodge didn't figure my truck out is that it never showed a misfire and would fire right up on a cold start start. Fuel pressure reading showed good and would hold pressure just a very slight drip after truck was turned off. I almost changed fuel pump before injectors but glad I didn't. Mine would blow very light smoke like sated above only way I seen It by buddy said there is a little black smoke coming out exhaust and it was almost naked to the eye. Also look at exhaust pipe and if it's super black you can tell its been burning rich for some time. Mine did it for. Year and half before I actually pinpointed it that's how light the fuel injector leak was. Sounds exactly like my truck was doing and never would show a mis fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok so sounds like it could be very possible i have an injector leak which would make sense because when i turn it off after it has been run it will fire right away but wait 20 to 30 mins and it would have time to leak which would make me assume that its in a way flooded before i even start it and has to burn that fuel off before it starts ...ive only had the truck for a couple weeks now so not quite sure how to get to the injectors is it a big job ? and do injectors cost a lot to replace?



i also had an issue on my way home last night when i was going up a hill and gave it gas and it seemed like the tranny was having trouble shifting down at one point it seemed to be caught between two gears and couldnt make up its mind im wondering if that has something to do with the tranny code the po700 that i had posted earlyer in the thread ?
 

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The injectors are not hard to get to. Once you remove the engine cover you will be able to see them. There should be 4 bolts that hold the injector rails down, two on each side of the intake. Remove the bolts and with a small pry bar gently pry on the fuel rail to remove the injectors. You might want to pry a little at a time moving from the front to the rear, those o'rings stick pretty good once they've been in there a long time. I always use a little grease on each o'ring when I reinstall the injectors. There is a clip on each injector that retains it into the fuel rail. If you are mechanically inclined this is not a touch job.

The trans is another issue and you really need to use a scan tool to read the trans codes stored in the TCM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok is there an easy way to tell if the injector is faulty when i take it out anything specific i need to look for ? or will it be easy to pick the leaky one of the bunch out assuming that is the problem? should i just replace them all or do only the one that is leaking? hopefully i can get around to the injectors this week




as for tranny i will hook it up again to the obd reader thing and post up exactly what all the codes say
 

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Like I said previously, once you have both fuel rails removed, just turn the key on an off a couple of times allowing the fuel pump to cycle each time, then watch for drips. If you aren't seeing anything right off you may have to scrounge up some small cups or spary paint can tops and place them under each injector. Come back and check each cap and the one that has fuel in it would be your leaking injector. I think you'll be able to see it dripping pretty quickly, within a minute or so... at least that's how is has always been for me.

I wouldn't replace every injector only the ones leaking or if you are wanting to upgrade to larger injectors.
 
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