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I have a 2000 Dodge Ram with the 5.9L V8 with 4WD. I am in the middle of replacing the steering gear(box) because the seal on the output shaft on the pitman arm failed and started leaking power steering fluid. I ordered a new steering gear from parts train. My problem is this. We compared the amount of turns from lock to lock on the steering input shaft of the steering gear(boxes). The old gear turned approx. 3 and 1/4 turns from lock to lock. The new gear only turns 1 and 1/2 have turns from lock to lock. The output shaft also turns less on the new box. The part numbers and markings are identical on both. Is it possible that the stops in the old box failed? or do I have the wrong part? Any help would be great!!
 

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2008 RAM 1500 ST 3.7L Magnum V6 PS2
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Well, hello and welcome to RamForumZ, since I see this is your first post! :Hey: It is possible that because the old components were just plain old worn out compared to the new part, that this would contribute to the difference between the two, but so long as the part numbers were identical as you say, and everything fits back up the way it should, I don't see you having any problems. This, too, will probably loosen up over time. :)
 

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Hi Cajun and Flyboy: I'm new to Forum and have an issue with my son's (He's finishing Army AIT awaiting orders) 2001 RAM 1500 4WD. I'm changing PS gearbox due to leaking original and have loosened/disconnected all but Pitman Arm. Puller is not working, even with some heat on the link. If I had a big enough fork (ie, > 31mm) I'd use it but I haven't found one that big yet. Questions: 1. How do you guys and the pros separate the gearbox stud from the arm; (2) do the wheels need to be precisely straight ahead? Many thanks.
 

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I have a 2000 Dodge Ram with the 5.9L V8 with 4WD. I am in the middle of replacing the steering gear(box) because the seal on the output shaft on the pitman arm failed and started leaking power steering fluid. I ordered a new steering gear from parts train. My problem is this. We compared the amount of turns from lock to lock on the steering input shaft of the steering gear(boxes). The old gear turned approx. 3 and 1/4 turns from lock to lock. The new gear only turns 1 and 1/2 have turns from lock to lock. The output shaft also turns less on the new box. The part numbers and markings are identical on both. Is it possible that the stops in the old box failed? or do I have the wrong part? Any help would be great!!
1 and a 1/2 turns lock to lock isn't much . I haven't heard of a box being that quick . I would venture to say you may have a bad box . To do a reseal on your old box isn't really that hard , even now that you have the old box off . Real easy on the bench . Hardest part would be getting the pitman arm off . Need a pitman arm puller and your on your way . Let me know what you decide and if you decide on resealing I can give you some advice . I''ll be waiting to hear from ya . Good Luck . Tom P.S. Don't forget to go to the newbie section and get the official greeting to this wonderful site .
 

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Hi Cajun and Flyboy: I'm new to Forum and have an issue with my son's (He's finishing Army AIT awaiting orders) 2001 RAM 1500 4WD. I'm changing PS gearbox due to leaking original and have loosened/disconnected all but Pitman Arm. Puller is not working, even with some heat on the link. If I had a big enough fork (ie, > 31mm) I'd use it but I haven't found one that big yet. Questions: 1. How do you guys and the pros separate the gearbox stud from the arm; (2) do the wheels need to be precisely straight ahead? Many thanks.
Don't forget to lock your steering wheel in position or you could damage your airbag or have something go "POP" To do a reseal on your old box isn't really that hard . You can do the reseal on the truck . Hardest part would be getting the pitman arm off . Need a pitman arm puller and your on your way . Let me know if your interested in resealing it . I''ll be waiting to hear from ya . Good Luck . Tom P.S. Don't forget to go to the newbie section and get the official welcoming to this great website .
 

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You have a pitman arm puller? if you do, tighten it up as tight as it will go.
hit the puller on the head of the threaded bolt head. Use a 3 lb hammer and give it a good health wrap. If done correctly it will pop on the first hit. Heating a steering componant is a no no where ever I worked. Whats your
son doing for a MOS(job)?:smileup::smileup:





Hi Cajun and Flyboy: I'm new to Forum and have an issue with my son's (He's finishing Army AIT awaiting orders) 2001 RAM 1500 4WD. I'm changing PS gearbox due to leaking original and have loosened/disconnected all but Pitman Arm. Puller is not working, even with some heat on the link. If I had a big enough fork (ie, > 31mm) I'd use it but I haven't found one that big yet. Questions: 1. How do you guys and the pros separate the gearbox stud from the arm; (2) do the wheels need to be precisely straight ahead? Many thanks.
 

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2008 RAM 1500 ST 3.7L Magnum V6 PS2
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Hello, Charles, sorry to hear about your problems. Looks like the advice here is good so far, and MRRMX has a good point about not heating the steering components. Rather than buying a different puller, especially if you don't plan on doing this kind of work regularly, some of your local auto parts stores rent them, and might have what you need. I have heard of people using the bigger forks, like for your ball joints, just never done that myself, but there again, if you go to a parts store, hopefully someone can give you a recommendation.

What I can say is that when the pitman seal went out on my '81 D150, it was a pain in the backside to get that thing loose, and yeah, you can hammer it alright, and guess I didn't whack it good enough, lol, but after a few choice words, tighten the puller, hammer again, (have a beverage, lol), and several repeat attempts later, FINALLY, we got it (this was a team effort). Only afterwards did someone suggest marvel mystery oil to help because ours was so old.

Good luck, and let us know how you come out! :)

-Cajun :pepper:
 

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Auto Zone and Advance Auto has free loaner:smileup:




Hello, Charles, sorry to hear about your problems. Looks like the advice here is good so far, and MRRMX has a good point about not heating the steering components. Rather than buying a different puller, especially if you don't plan on doing this kind of work regularly, some of your local auto parts stores rent them, and might have what you need. I have heard of people using the bigger forks, like for your ball joints, just never done that myself, but there again, if you go to a parts store, hopefully someone can give you a recommendation.

What I can say is that when the pitman seal went out on my '81 D150, it was a pain in the backside to get that thing loose, and yeah, you can hammer it alright, and guess I didn't whack it good enough, lol, but after a few choice words, tighten the puller, hammer again, (have a beverage, lol), and several repeat attempts later, FINALLY, we got it (this was a team effort). Only afterwards did someone suggest marvel mystery oil to help because ours was so old.

Good luck, and let us know how you come out! :)

-Cajun :pepper:
 
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