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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a 2012 Ram ST and have about 550km on it. I want to change over to synthetic oil and am just wonding if I can striaght up drain the old and add synthectic or is there a specific procedure.
 

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When my oil change was due, i just switched to my preferred synthetic motor oil & a proper oil filter
I also added a Catch Can to keep any oil that the smog system might pick up from returning into the combustion chamber where it does not belong.
Oil belongs below the piston rings, not above them
 

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want to add, i have changed oil to synthetic as soon as i got from the dealer. done this on every new car since 1984. never an issue.
 

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I switched to Mobil 1 5w-20 and a Motorcraft FL-820S filter (exact match for the 5.7 Hemi) on my second oil change without any issues.

I use the same oil and filter in my wife's Escape, makes it easy when I'm buying supplies.

Darin
 

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Just my two cents here, but I would wait for the first oil change interval before switching to synthetic. This gives the engine time to wear in properly. The new synthetics are so good they actually don't allow propper break in sometimes. I have not made the switch yet, but will at my next oil change (8,500 miles). Probably mobile 1 as that is what was speced for my 300 SRT8.
 

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Just my two cents here, but I would wait for the first oil change interval before switching to synthetic. This gives the engine time to wear in properly. The new synthetics are so good they actually don't allow propper break in sometimes. I have not made the switch yet, but will at my next oil change (8,500 miles). Probably mobile 1 as that is what was speced for my 300 SRT8.
rollin, many will say that waiting to for x many miles to use synthetic is a myth. i started, using synthetic with out waiting for a "break in" when new cars started coming from the factory with synthetic, "mobil1" from the factory late eighties, think corvette and the gmc cyclones. never had any oil related problem. back in the mid seventies when mobil1 first came on the seen, people did have trouble by using in cars with 40000 or so miles as, it would cause a problem with older style gaskets. tighter specs, newer metals, better seals have made waiting obsolete. besides, unless you spend big bucks on some of the botique synthetics, they are all made from the same base stock, just use different additives now. also keep in mind, i am not an expert.
 
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I've switched the last three cars I've owned to Mobil 1 5W-20...and I agree with Rolinfast that you wait for your first oil change after breaking. That allows the engine to break in properly, then flush out the particles that might have been generated during the break in period. If you have an automatic, there'll be some of the old oil left int the torque converter that you can't get out, but it will just be diluted with the old and at the subsequent oil change down the road completely gone. I've run Mobil 1 is everything from my previous one ton dually to the Porsches....it's probably one of the best synthetics on the market. Don't cheap out on your filter either....a good filter can save you a lot of wear on the engine.

If you opt to just use the oil provided by the dealership, you might want to ask what brand they use. they usually buy in bulk and the brands vary from dealership to dealership. The dealership I bought the truck from uses Penzoil...too much parafin for me. Since I can't crawl under cars anymore to change my own oil, I just buy it from Walmart (best price I've found for Mobil 1) and they charge me $14 to change it out for me.
 

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I drove my new '12 Ram home with 7-miles and immediately changed the oil/filter to Amsoil synthetic and Wixx filter.

I've been doing this for the last 6 new vehicles purchased [Ram inclusive].

How long has that oil/filter been sitting in your vehicle for?

Food for thought....
 

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I've switched the last three cars I've owned to Mobil 1 5W-20...and I agree with Rolinfast that you wait for your first oil change after breaking. That allows the engine to break in properly, then flush out the particles that might have been generated during the break in period. If you have an automatic, there'll be some of the old oil left int the torque converter that you can't get out, but it will just be diluted with the old and at the subsequent oil change down the road completely gone.
:4-dontknow: Are we talking tranny fluid or engine oil?
 

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I drove my new '12 Ram home with 7-miles and immediately changed the oil/filter to Amsoil synthetic and Wixx filter.

I've been doing this for the last 6 new vehicles purchased [Ram inclusive].

How long has that oil/filter been sitting in your vehicle for?

Food for thought....
....dang....I never thought of it that way......:doh:

Hmmmmm......now you have me thinkin' I need to do an oil change. (50 miles on mine)
 

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I've switched the last three cars I've owned to Mobil 1 5W-20...and I agree with Rolinfast that you wait for your first oil change after breaking. That allows the engine to break in properly, then flush out the particles that might have been generated during the break in period. If you have an automatic, there'll be some of the old oil left int the torque converter that you can't get out, but it will just be diluted with the old and at the subsequent oil change down the road completely gone. I've run Mobil 1 is everything from my previous one ton dually to the Porsches....it's probably one of the best synthetics on the market. Don't cheap out on your filter either....a good filter can save you a lot of wear on the engine.

If you opt to just use the oil provided by the dealership, you might want to ask what brand they use. they usually buy in bulk and the brands vary from dealership to dealership. The dealership I bought the truck from uses Penzoil...too much parafin for me. Since I can't crawl under cars anymore to change my own oil, I just buy it from Walmart (best price I've found for Mobil 1) and they charge me $14 to change it out for me.
read up on the castrol oil law suit, you will find m1 and all the others are no longer the true synthetic they once were. all comes from the same base stock, same as dino.
also, is that a porsche in your avatar, thought they came from the factory with synthetic.
 

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jones, also, m1 was the best for a long time, do you still think that holds true after the merger with exon and the moving of production to mexico?
 
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Hunter: Yes..that's a Porsche 996 twin turbo...and yes, they come from the factory with Mobil 1 0W-30 in them and Porsche has a very short list of oils they "approve"...or you could end up with issues on your warranty. Some of the older models needed more zinc in the forumula to reduce rocker arm wear. A lot of the oils are changing and their formulas are not the same as they were initially. Some of the guys periodically sent off their oil samples to Blackstone Labs in Ft. Wayne Indiana and would keep us all advised on the current makeup of the oils. Somewhere there's a report on the different components in the various oils if I can find it.

Shadango: Good eye...my bad...I'm thinking Porsche and writing in a Dodge forum. My mind was into the tranny and turbos on a Porsche....when you change out the oil on a turbo, there's oil left in the catch can and in the turbos...about a quart. It's too much hassle to drain them so most guys just leave it in there to be diluted with the new oil.

When you change out the oil on an auto tranny, there's old oil left in the torque converter but it's a hassle to mess with...but NOT engine oil...transmission oil. As I said, my bad; your good.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
alright, so i've run mine on conventional since I bought it 3 months ago and have about 350 miles on it. Should I wait for the first oil change or just switch over now.
 
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What's the rush...it's already in there. It's not like the dealerships are going to put something in there that will screw up your engine...let it stay till 2K or so then dump it and switch to the synthetic of your choice. Do you know what the dealership uses for their oil changes? I'd run a 5W-20 unless you're in a really cold climate...like maybe Ontario? Porsche runs a Mobil 1 0W-30 because when they produce and ship out the cars they can cover all the regions whether cold climates or not....sort of a catch-all generic approach to oil viscosity regardless of geography. The 0 viscosity is too"watery" for the hotter climates like we have here in california....so there's really no need for the 0 and the 5 weight multi-grade works fine.

I used to run the 20W-50 in one of the turbos because of the heat they generate. These Rams have no need for viscosity like that. The last thing I want to see is a big discussion on which oil is the best. Those discussions usually end up with recommendations made by people who happen to be runnign a particular oil of their choosing. Is it better or worse than another? A good grade of synthetic should work just fine. I happen to be partial to Mobil 1, but the next guy will push Amsoil, or Dino or GTX, or whatever. I used Amsoil in my previous Dodge 3500 diesel dually....but Amsoil is expensive...probably more so than the competition.
 

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The new engines don't require the same break in as our older engines, but, it has to be important to allow the rings to seat in properly, regardless of the better sealing technology they have today. I have heard of engines run on synthetic still showing the cross-hatch on the cylinder walls. I will wait for the first change to switch to Mobil-1 and a Wix filter. You have to think, even with the improvements in anti-wear components the oil gets dirty... something is wearing in!
 

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i'm old school here. change my oil every 1500 to 2000 miles. use regular oil as per spec now 5w20. remmember when had this nissan and ran a synthetic oil in it crusin to wisconsin. going faster than normal for long period of time. trip was about 4 to 5 hrs. found that oil looked like it was burnt. when i got back put dura lube and got great gas mileage after doing this. will be putting in dura lube into my 2011 after it reachies 25000 miles. been useing it in my 1996 5.9L and still going strong and have 123000 on it.
 
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