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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Curious if anyone who has built/rebuilt engines has had a cold start tick that eventually goes away when it comes up to temperature during your break in period.

Just finished a rebuild wherein I spit-shined every single internal and external component of the engine which only had 125k on it. Re-used the hyd/roller lifters, none of them showed internal scoring or damage and all operated properly when I put them back together. Used a supple amount of gorilla snot when I reassembled everything. Running premium in it, so I doubt it's a detonation/pinging issue which should only be a thing at high temperatures anyways and I'm running a 180 stat. And it's certainly not loud or sharp enough to be a bottom end knock.

Running AMSOIL SAE 30 Break-in Oil and I'm nearing the end of my 500 mile break in. Hoping that the switch over to AMSOIL XL 10W-30 and some Lucas oil stabilizer will solve the issue. After having seen Project Farm's video on MotorKote, maybe considering that instead of the Lucas.
 

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I'm probably way off, but have you checked exhaust manifold bolts for tightness? At least with the hemis, sometimes, what sounds like valve train noise is actually a broken or loose header/manifold bolt. Not a fan of oil stabilizer, I have 400,000 miles on my Dodge Magnum's hemi with Penzoil 5w20 Platinum oil AND 20,000 mile changes! I do send a sample to Blackstone Labs every change. I do run 180F thermostats in my hemis, too. Try a stethoscope and try to find the source of the racket. I'd try sending samples to Blackstone Labs once you start using the 10w30. One other thing that I've seen that did the same as yours was a 260,000 mile hemi Ram, full of sludge. Cold oil couldn't get thru the pickup tube till hot. Obviously, not your problem, haha.
 

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Re-used the hyd/roller lifters, none of them showed internal scoring or damage and all operated properly when I put them back together.

Did you pump them up in a container of oil before putting them in the engine? If not this get's all the air out of them prior to start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, part of the purpose for the rebuild was to solve an exhaust leak tick coming from two cleanly snapped off exhaust manifold bolts. New heads, old manifolds (not cracked), new bolts. Torqued the bolts to spec per the fsm.

However, while I was changing the oil today, I thought I'd just throw a 3/8 ratchet on em and see if they'd loosened up. They weren't loose per se, but they weren't as tight as I would have expected them to be. FSM spec torque I think is for fitting the manifolds when they're new and with no gasket. Seeing as I have a gasket, it might make sense that they should be more. Anyways, I gave them the old calibrated elbow treatment.

Letting it sit now to cool down, we'll see how it does when I head over to the folks' for 'murica day.
 
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