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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im looking to redo my dads old goat. It's an 82 D 150 two wheel with 318 2bbl. Don't know what carb. I need to know what the compression tollerance is on it so I know if I have a good base to run with. It dose seem to run well. It has issues though just because it started life as a slant 6 and the micanic that put in the engine didn't spend alot of time on swap so its to say a trick to start when cold. (cable choke) and oil, exhaust leak, do the trans have ajustment for moduleator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sorry about how that trans question came out im doing this from my phone. What I ment was dose the torque flight trans have an ajustment in modulator. Shifts alittle to soon for me.
 

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It has no modulator as such. It does have a mechanical adjuster that runs from the carb to the transmission. The adjuster part on those models is down near the transmission. Twist one way and shifts come sooner, other way and shifts are delayed. A couple quick road tests will point you in the right direction. Minimum compression is 100psi with variance not more than 25psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have another one for anyone. Well now the old goat has been gifted to me over the weekend so redoing it is for me now. And looking over it the timeing scale is missing. I want to check timeing on this thing before I compession test it can anyone send a pic as to where it should go and correct time on this. 82 318 2bbl no ac, auto trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well doing some looking I found that what I seem to have is a 318 re if I'm looking right with a manufacture date of 8\72 ain't. That some isht? The only reason I found it was the local inspector made me put a catalitic converter on it to pass inspection. Even though there's no emissions in that county.
 

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Nothing wrong with that. The '72 probably still has the medium duty rods in it. Less inertia, a little quicker spool up. I ran mine to 6,000 rpm often. It'll have more meat in the casting for more overbore tolerance. Aaaaand, it'll have full-floating wrist pins. From '73 on they used heavy duty con rods like the 360 and press-fit wrist pins (cheaper). Does any of it matter in day-to-day street use. No. Side-by-side on a dyno, the '72 would do just a smidge better, all else being equal. You don't need ignition timing for a compression test. You do want to pull that timing chain cover and get a new gear and chain set on there. The '70's-early 80's were rife with those awful plastic-tipped gears for 318's (again, to save money). Start spinning that engine over and you could mess up. Push far enough and you will bend valves. Get a real set. Funny how that applies to so many things. :LOL:
It may have already jumped timing, or is about to. Once you get that cover off you can clean it up. Should be some timing marks on it. I never used a timing light on my old '69 Charger 318. I'd just get it close so it'd start easily, then tweak so it didn't rattle when hot and under heavy throttle.
As for the cat converter, it may have had one from the factory. I know truck emissions lagged passenger car stuff quite a bit, but things were tightening up in the '80's. The light-duty trucks were beginning to get squeezed into the passenger car ranks by then. That inspector sounds like a stickler, but if it had an OEM, that's probably why.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Him and the state patrol both sed 81 and beyond light truck's as far as jumped time no but I do know about the nylon gear teeth.:smiledown: not a fan of them. So I guess ill clean and deoil the block and see what washes up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I do know the truck was well cared for it was repainted in 2001 just before the 318 went in but now it needs some TLC. The clear coat is flakeing off and it has two half doller sized rust spots. Needs new door seals and carpet. No biggs on those things the big issue for me is the dent in the 1/4 between cab and wheel well on pass side. (Hay bail accedent) as I start ill post results I would like to be done by the end of july so I can take it to a local cruse, car show. Let's see how it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
This is what I'm working with not bad base and runs good and it starts ez once its warmed up but that first start can be frustrating sometimes (manual choke! One of my first fixes after leaks).
 

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