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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's a 2010 1500 Slt 4x4. Noticed as I was rolling down the highway, SES light comes on, revs were high 2400 or so would not shift to 5th, as well cruise, mds would not work. Could not manually shift to 5th, it would say 5th but still be in fourth. Took it to the dealer, at the end of the day they wound up removing two of the three screens from the solenoid.
Picked the truck up, asked why they would simply not replace the solenoid. Customer service rep said basically that this is what Dodge Tech Line said the remedy was.
Really interested in what those in the know think of this, should I insist on new solenoid? Has anybody else experienced this?
Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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If the screens were the issue, and it's functioning fine now, then I would just drive it. :4-dontknow:
 

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Never heard such a fix for that...the fix is suppose to be a solenoid pack replacement and then some. Time will tell after a few hrs of driving...hopefuly it's fixed but I wouldn't count on it. Btw, if you have a tuner you could have reloaded any tune and it would have temp fixed it. I'm guessing that all they did was reflash the pcm. If they did it won't last long but hopefully I'm wrong.
 

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The new solenoid will most likely come with 3 screens in it anyway. If the one in the truck works and it's just a lack of flow to it or out of it, then the fix would be removing the screen. If the manufacturer can fix something 'on the cheap', 99 out of 100 times they will. I wouldn't be suprised if there was a reflash on the way for that issue if there isn't one already. Haven't been on dealerconnect lately to see if there is anything new out.
 

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What fault code did you have? Is this the transmission solenoid you're talking about?

"Fixing" a problem by removing "screens" from the transmission solenoid is BALONEY!! The transmission solenoid module has only ONE main screen (it covers the entire bottom of the module), and removing it would NOT be a good idea! The screen carrier is about 3/16 inch thick, so removing it would lower the solenoid (on the valve body assy) by that amount. Unfortunately, the clearance between the transmission range sensor (TRS, which is a "wing" that sticks off one end of the solenoid and contains five range sensor pins) and the code plate (an encoded metal plate that slides back and forth when you move the shift lever) is only about 1/16 inch. So if you remove the screen, the TRS wing will be rubbing on (or rather, clamping!) the code plate. It simply would not work properly!

I have never heard of ANY problems with the transmission solenoid screen!
 

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What fault code did you have? Is this the transmission solenoid you're talking about?

"Fixing" a problem by removing "screens" from the transmission solenoid is BALONEY!! The transmission solenoid module has only ONE main screen (it covers the entire bottom of the module), and removing it would NOT be a good idea! The screen carrier is about 3/16 inch thick, so removing it would lower the solenoid (on the valve body assy) by that amount. Unfortunately, the clearance between the transmission range sensor (TRS, which is a "wing" that sticks off one end of the solenoid and contains five range sensor pins) and the code plate (an encoded metal plate that slides back and forth when you move the shift lever) is only about 1/16 inch. So if you remove the screen, the TRS wing will be rubbing on (or rather, clamping!) the code plate. It simply would not work properly!

I have never heard of ANY problems with the transmission solenoid screen!
Thanks for the tech info and backing me up. I've done lots of research on these trannys and would have felt pretty stupid for missing out on the screen fix...thanks again.
 

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The screen is what seals the solinoid block to the valve body you can't leave that out. Maybe they punch some holes in it but it sounds like bs to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the answers not sure what I'll do but I do have the shop papers stating what they did to fix it, I have a lot of warranty and it is running well. The only thing I have noticed is that when I am at highway speed say 105 k's, I rev at about 1700-1800. If I slap it in to manual 5th the revs go up to around 2000. Is this normal, I never really checked it out before, and have not driven another 1500. I have a 392 rear end.
 

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.... The only thing I have noticed is that when I am at highway speed say 105 k's, I rev at about 1700-1800. If I slap it in to manual 5th the revs go up to around 2000. Is this normal, I never really checked it out before, and have not driven another 1500. I have a 392 rear end.
Manual (ERS) "5" is actually normal 4th gear. So when you tap it to ERS "5" you are actually making a 5-4 downshift. In ERS mode, 2nd prime gear (an alternate 2nd gear) is enabled, so the numbering gets a little confusing:

1st gear = 3.000 = ERS "1"
2nd gear = 1.667 = ERS "2"
2nd Prime = 1.500 = ERS "3"
3rd gear = 1.000 = ERS "4"
4th gear = 0.750 = ERS "5"
5th gear = 0.667 = ERS "6" (on 2012+ models)
 
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