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This is my first post, I usually start by giving info about myself but I am out of ideas and this problem still exist.

I am having a problem with my coolant temperature gauge in my 97 dodge ram 4x4 with a 5.2. My gauge reads that the truck is running at the last 0 in 200 about 3/4 of the gauge, but the truck is not running hot at all. I have replaced everything with brand new parts this has been a problem when I bought the truck 4 years ago. I have installed new water pump, radiator, water outlet, thermostat 3 times 2 were 180 degree and 1 195 degree, new hoses, radiator cap and the heater core was replaced by a local shop by the previous owner. Also I have replaced the coolant temp sensor for the computer as well as the temp switch for the gauge 2 times. The gauge reads currently with the 195 thermostat about 230 but when checked by a hand held temp gun shows the motor is at about 185-197 and with a scan tool the computer shows anywhere between 189-192. As instructed by a local shop I checked the gauge by unplugging it and it dropped to 0 as if the key was off then grounded the wire and it pegs out past the gauge numbers. I also dropped it off at the shop and they said everything seems to be functioning correctly but that it just reads hot. Everything is original to the truck accept the fore mentioned parts and the gauge cluster was replaced with one out of an identical 96 ram, the gauge was reading wrong with the original cluster as well.
 

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I have this issue also, after replacing the one-wire sensor. I used sealant, or tape on it. Should it have been installed bare, as it was threaded with an NPT tapered pipe thread, that usually does not require sealant? Could my use of sealant changed the resistance of the sender? Mine was steady at 200 deg. Now steady at 230 deg.
 

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Hey lazarus truck have you got any info from anybody about this gauge problem cause i cant figure it out to save my life and im about to go on a 1600 mile trip with my rig and i dont want to be guessing my temp thanks man
 

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I used an AZ brand of sensor, so I dont know if it is crap or what-not. I usually buy good stuff on Amazon. From all indications, the motor is still running normally. I have an IR thermometer and the readings from it are much lower than the gauge.
 

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no go on the thread sealant

Lazarus i know what your problem is its the thread sealant i had to take a little bit of time to think about your issue if that thread sealant is there then the sender can not ground itself and the sender has to be grounded to send a correct signal to the gaug so if you pull the sender back out and remove that sealant then im pretty sure you will be back to normal on the gauge
 

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Thanks NC, I'll try that as soon as I finish the rocker replacement this week!
 

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No problem just keep me posted i figured out my problem to my gauge was shorted out when i changed my heater core hoses so I'm installing a aftermarket gauge with a piller pod tomorrow
 

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No problem just keep me posted i figured out my problem to my gauge was shorted out when i changed my heater core hoses so I'm installing a aftermarket gauge with a piller pod tomorrow
So thank you both! I have the same problem after doing everything down to the plenum, timing chain and gears, front cover, water pump, etc, and read your ost. Looks like my "if a little's good, a lots better" approach to using pipe thread sealant for both sensors was an error. Thankfully there are those of you that are smarter than me.
 

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So thank you both! I have the same problem after doing everything down to the plenum, timing chain and gears, front cover, water pump, etc, and read your ost. Looks like my "if a little's good, a lots better" approach to using pipe thread sealant for both sensors was an error. Thankfully there are those of you that are smarter than me.
Turns out that wasn't it, still runs an estimated 220-ish on the gauge, need to get a infrared gun to confirm.
 

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This is my first post, I usually start by giving info about myself but I am out of ideas and this problem still exist.

I am having a problem with my coolant temperature gauge in my 97 dodge ram 4x4 with a 5.2. My gauge reads that the truck is running at the last 0 in 200 about 3/4 of the gauge, but the truck is not running hot at all. I have replaced everything with brand new parts this has been a problem when I bought the truck 4 years ago. I have installed new water pump, radiator, water outlet, thermostat 3 times 2 were 180 degree and 1 195 degree, new hoses, radiator cap and the heater core was replaced by a local shop by the previous owner. Also I have replaced the coolant temp sensor for the computer as well as the temp switch for the gauge 2 times. The gauge reads currently with the 195 thermostat about 230 but when checked by a hand held temp gun shows the motor is at about 185-197 and with a scan tool the computer shows anywhere between 189-192. As instructed by a local shop I checked the gauge by unplugging it and it dropped to 0 as if the key was off then grounded the wire and it pegs out past the gauge numbers. I also dropped it off at the shop and they said everything seems to be functioning correctly but that it just reads hot. Everything is original to the truck accept the fore mentioned parts and the gauge cluster was replaced with one out of an identical 96 ram, the gauge was reading wrong with the original cluster as well.
This should be a recall I've seen all of these 1999, 2001, 2004,2007, 2009 blown motors because gauge never went over 3/4. Melted aluminum down
 

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My 97 Ram 3500 V8 has same issue after replacing the distributor (requires Intake plenum removal) the engine sounds great, but temperature needle pegs to max. I have tried every thing I know (Coolant bleeding, new t-Stat, coolant sensor and new coolant sender plus connector). I too added thread sealant but compensated by clamping a ground to the sensor body. Still no change. All voltages and resistance are present/correct back to the ECM connector. Gauge needle does not move when temperature sender connector is removed. Coolant is clean and water pump fairly new (< 4k miles) Engine only has 64K miles and has never run hot before and does not now, but ECM spits out PO118 code for higher voltage.
Does anyone have a clue what has happened?
 
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