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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting closer to time to get my Bilstein's put on and I wanted to make sure I am aware of any little things to do or not to do from the folks that have done it.

Seems like I remember a few things.....I read about a couple of people putting a washer in the wrong place. I'm guessing this is the Bilstein-provided washer and that it goes on the shaft under the spring hat which is then held on by the Bilstein-supplied lock nut. Seems like a few had mistakenly installed the washer on top of the spring hat and under the lock nut. Is this correct?

The other one I remember reading was something about the shock body (I think) not being 100% round or uniform...that it had slightly flattened spots on it maybe?....and that it was only meant to be installed one way. Anyone know what I might be referring to, lol?

Any other tips, tricks, DOs or DONT's? Thanks all!
 

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i figured i would use a cutting torch to remove adn disable them and use my welder to assemble and put them back in. alignment, i got a roll of string and a ruler, and tape measure. a 30 rack of some cheap beer and i should be all set
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well after calling around and getting some quotes I think I am not going to install them at all.....I'm going to let someone else do it, lol. I got the same price from two different local shops.....$140 to replace all four shocks and the alignment afterward. Considering I can't do the alignment even if I were inclined to that seems like a helluva deal to me. I would still like any tips anyone can offer though because I have not been able to find a local shop that has experience with the 5100s.

And one more question...should I drive it for a couple of weeks so it can settle prior to getting the alignment? Thanks.
 

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when i do mine its going from the electric lift right to the alignment rack. your suspension has already settle. the only thing your replacing is basically the hydrolic part of the suspension. for haha's i did alignment the other day to see what the readings where cause i'm interested in seeing how much it change once these things are installed. but i got the advantage of having all these things at my finger tips, i put everything to dead nuts rec. specs. so hopefully i'll let you know how much things will change
 

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ok spent the morning installing the 5100 front and rear. the rear took 5 mins. the front thats a different story, the bottom strut bolts where rusted into the sleeves, so about 45 mins with the air gun on the lowest setting just enough to vibrate the bolt a little bit, a brass hammer and p.b. blaster i was able to get the bolts out of the sleeve, cleaned the sleeves out and hit the bolts on the wire wheel, then the spring seats where frozen to old struts, brass hammer and 5 mins per a strut got those off. then the alignment every thing was way out of spec. i did an alignment a few weeks ago and had caster, camber, and toe pretty much dead nuts. well i couldnt get caster on driver side to get into spec. so i ended up adjust the passenger a little out of spec to compensate, and put camber at 2 degree positive and set toe perfect. i put mine at the highest setting and now the truck seems to be perfectly leveled. i will post pics tomorrow as of right now i need food, shower, and a nap!!!! but installing them is no different then doing reg. struts in these trucks, just have to adjust put the snap ring at what setting you want before you slide the spring seat on the strut. hope this helps, and i havent tried 4x4 yet
 
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