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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking for a set of compact (not visible from a quick inspection of the truck) traction bars that wont interfere with off-road operation or axel articulation. Engine is going to have about 500rwhp
 

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You might try adding another leaf and get some very stout shocks. I don't have 500 rwhp, but maybe close to 500 at flywheel when spraying nitrous. My dealer added an extra leaf when it was new and Rancho 9000's cranked to max. It launches perfectly. The Viper trucks seem to rather have a problem with traction.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I already bought the Bilstein remote adjustable shocks lol! was between those and the 9000s. As to the leaf packs I already have the 4 leaf+overload on my truck and I don't want to detract from ride quality as this is my daily, would there be a way to add a leaf at this point without stiffing the ride?
 

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You can try clamping the front half of your leaf springs,if you're fighting wheelhop problems.
Won't do much if you're looking for help in planting the rear end though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Clamping? And this thing is a daily so I don't want to do anything that will mess with it on normal roads/driving......plus I kinda don't want to lose off-road ability
 

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You won't loose any off roading ability.
All clamping the front halves of your spring does,is prevent the spring from winding up and then unloading under acceleration.
It will slightly stiffen your ride,but way less then a set of traditional traction bars do.
What problems are you fighting,wheelhop or tire spin?
Clamping the leafs will only combat wheelhop,doesn't help much if you're trying to plant the tires harder to combat excessive wheelspin.

Depending on how handy and ambitious you are,you could build a traction bar set-up like the old AMC's used.
It employed bracket's welded to the top of the diff,that then used a bar to connect to a bracket on the frame rails.
Only advantage to this set-up,is it's not really noticable,and i think that was one of your priorities,it also doesn't detract from ground clearance as everything is above the diff housing.
 

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I agree with the post above.

Best traction bars are Caltracs or similar. Next would be a link attached to the top of the axle housing, good for rock crawling axle wrap (does not help with weight transfer). Last is spring clamps, I have ran clamp springs on 3-4 trucks, its worth the $20.
 

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There's another old drag racers trick that might help plant the tires and isn't too noticable.
That's modify your spring pack with one extra long leaf that is the bottom leaf.
Leave it long enough to go under the front spring perch,clamp it to the other leafs,and it becomes a home made slapper bar.

The front half of your leaf spring is basically just an axle locater and controls axle wind-up,the rear half of your leaf spring is where your actaul spring motion is.
The rear half is what sets your ride factor,the front half locates the diff.
So any extra leaves you add to the front half of your spring pack,won't adversly affect your ride quality.

The post above lists traction aids in the correct order:smileup:.

For smoother action out of your spring pack,taper the ends of your leaves some,don't run straight cuts if your modifying additional leafs.
A straight cut doesn't slide as nice as a taper cut does.

Another option is a pinion snubber to combat wheelhop.

Are you running a driveshaft loop,if you plan on 500 horsepower to the tires,a loop is a wise investment especially with sticky tires

Cal Tracs are your best set-up,but if you do any 4 wheeling style off roading,they do take away some ground clearance
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well my current leaf packs are 4 main leafs and one very thick overload at the bottom, im mostly getting wheel hop at this point as the engine has only had some work done so far. Im going to build the driveline before anything else so it can use the power its going to have. Can you post a link to the AMC setup so I can see what you mean?
 

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I don't have a link to an AMC set-up,but if you goggle AMC AMX rear suspension,you should find something.
As stated by SnackTime, Rock Crawler guys also do basically the same thing to control axle wrap.

You're heavy duty overload spring will prevent you from running an extra long leaf as your bottom leaf,but you can still run a long leaf above it.

Don't be scared to scrounge up an extra set of cheap used springs,and start adding 1/2 leafs to the front of your spring packs.
A cut-off disc in a side grinder is a good tool to have when you're playing with springs.
It'll make short work of cutting down/tapering leafs etc.
I'm not overly familiar with the spring packs on your truck,but they should use a Grade 8 style bolt and you might need to hunt up a longer bolt to hold additional leafs if you go that way

The stiffer you make the front half of your leafs the better chance you'll have of preventing spring wind-up.
Wheelhop on a leaf spring suspension occurs because the front half of the springs twists itself into an "S" shape.
The front half of the spring will twist to a certain point,then it snaps back,when it snaps back is when it unloads the rear end and you get wheelhop
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah! Thanks for all the info, makes more sense what i have to do now. So with the overload being there just put the half leaf on top right?
 

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Yup,run your longer half leaf just above the overload spring,but below the main leaves.
If you can get it long enough to hit the front spring perch or just behind the perch,it's a cheap homemade slapper bar too,lol.
The farther to the front you can transfer axle wrap energy,the more you'll force the tires into the pavement.
Ideally you get the best hook if the rear of the truck rises on acceleration.
When a vehicle squats on acceleration,you're actually lifting the tires off the pavement,but when the ass end goes up,you're forcing the tires down and into the pavement
 

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You won't loose any off roading ability.
All clamping the front halves of your spring does,is prevent the spring from winding up and then unloading under acceleration.
It will slightly stiffen your ride,but way less then a set of traditional traction bars do.
What problems are you fighting,wheelhop or tire spin?
Clamping the leafs will only combat wheelhop,doesn't help much if you're trying to plant the tires harder to combat excessive wheelspin.

Depending on how handy and ambitious you are,you could build a traction bar set-up like the old AMC's used.
It employed bracket's welded to the top of the diff,that then used a bar to connect to a bracket on the frame rails.
Only advantage to this set-up,is it's not really noticable,and i think that was one of your priorities,it also doesn't detract from ground clearance as everything is above the diff housing.
Guys I also need some help with this. My wheel hop is really REALLY bad and tire spin. Any and all advice needed. I'm a newbie and don't understand much of the posts. Spring clamp, adding leafs makes sense but I would have no idea on how to do that. Maybe one of you could recommend some traction bars to make it easy on me.
 

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I think Kurtis (Cndoil) covered most upgrades already.
I think upgrading your bushings is where i'd start.
Either by adding aftermarket bushings to your stock bars or spring for a set on Spohn adjustable bars with decent bushings
Is your truck lowered?
That'll throw your IC out the window.
You lose leverage to push the tires into the ground,with a dropped 4 link set-up.
 

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If you don't have airbags in the rear springs,you could try adding a set.
I'd run a couple pounds more air in the passenger side bag then the drivers side bag,but there's some trial and error to using bags to help plant your suspension
 

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I think Kurtis (Cndoil) covered most upgrades already.
I think upgrading your bushings is where i'd start.
Either by adding aftermarket bushings to your stock bars or spring for a set on Spohn adjustable bars with decent bushings
Is your truck lowered?
That'll throw your IC out the window.
You lose leverage to push the tires into the ground,with a dropped 4 link set-up.
No its not lowered, stock suspension. had 410's put in and now im getting wheel hop really bad. thank for all the info guys.
 

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as stated earlier post, try the Caltracs, talk to John about your vehicle info, I ran them on my Nova with there split mono leaf, it improved the 60 ft times and carried the wheels every pass with a mild motor. Caltracs can be used on street with quick adjustment from track setup to street in matter of minutes. Traction can be fixed with a set of slicks or drag radial tires but with slicks now you need to worry about drive shaft loop and axle retainers. I am not familiar with the dodge rear end, if its like the gm 12 bolt will need to get c-clip eliminator kit or if its like a Ford 9inch ur good to go. The faster you go the more you speed!!!
 

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Check out Dave at oneupoffroad.com I believe he will be able to answer the question of the traction bars and off-roading
 
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