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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I no longer can get my truck out of my driveway. I changed the tranny fluid today and drove it around the block and it was slipping, checked fluid, was a quart low. added a quart into it and drove around the block again. halfway around the block, Nothing. Total loss of the tranny. No reverse, no drive, no nothing. I was able to coast back to the driveway and pull the new codes I was throwing. This is what I got.

P0876-UD PRESSURE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT
p0731-GEAR RATIO ERROR 1ST
P0732-GEAR RATIO ERROR 2ND

Smoke was rolling out of the dipstick. so I have no idea whats up. The junkyard has one but its a $1000 plus exchange and I dont have that layin around right now. Any idea.
 

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Tell me what you did with the seal on the main sump filter. There should have been a seal in the pump housing, that the filter snout sticks up through. Did you replace it? If so, the new seal must be tapped in FLUSH with the casting all the way around (not cocked). Misinstalled filter seals are the most likely cause for problems like yours.

Or, did you stick the new seal on the filter snout? This will NOT work. You need to install the seal into the pump bore.

If you just left the old seal there (and it wasn't loose or damaged) then you should be OK. I recommend leaving the old seal in if it's in good shape (it's too easy to mess things up if you try to replace it).

Were you having trans issues before you changed the fluid?

Give me some more info and we'll take it from there. But realize, smoke out the dipstick tube is NOT a good sign....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay well the whole story. Last weekend I got brave in her. Me and a few buddies were at the lake playin in the mud. My buddy found a big hole. He runs 37's and 12" of lift. He kept calling me out on it and so I finally took a shot and hit the hole. I made it through with out a problem. Now the problems started the next morning. I went to run to the store and my tranny got stuck in "limp mode" I only had 2nd and 3rd. When I got home I checked my fluid and It had a little water in it. So that is why I changed it. I didnt flush it though As I figured Id change it again in a week or so.After I changed it, I drove it around the block. Had tons of slippage. So I check the fluid, and It was a quart low. Added the quart in. Ran it through the gears in the driveway. Fluid was good. Drove it around the block again. This time about halfway around the block i hear a squeal and then nothing. No 1st, 2nd, 3rd, D, or Reverse. Now before I changed the fluid, I was getting these CEL's. P0988, P0876 P0841. I changed the fluid and am not getting the ones stated above.

The sump filter seal I belieave is push in all the way. I was thinking about doing a complete flush now and checking all the filters to see if that helps. Do you think its even worth it? or should I just prepare for a new tranny.
 

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Definitely sounds like loss of line pressure. The faults you originally noted are all pressure switch faults, which likely means you lost LP and therefore your pressure switches were reading "open" when they should have been "closed". Now you've got ratio faults, too, which means clutch slippage (which is consistent with loss of LP).

Bad news is, you've probably got one or more fried clutches (indicated by the smoke out the dipstick tube), so therefore you need to pull the trans. Good news is, you may be able to get by with an input clutch kit ($113 list), torque converter (about $270), and a new pump assy ($340 list), plus about 5 hours of labor for tearing down the trans. This does not include the labor (another 3 hours or so) to R&R the trans - which you would be stuck with whether you repair it or replace it. This should still be cheaper than a whole new trans.

I'm guessing your input clutches (UD and Reverse, and possibly OD as well) are cooked. All three of these clutch packs are included in the input clutch kit (05013090AG from Mopar). I think your other clutches (2C, 4C, and LR) should be OK, although they should be checked to make sure. Since you have an apparent line pressure problem, I'm guessing you likely have either a stuck main regulator valve (which is inside the pump assy), or sheared, cracked, or worn pump gears (which would necessitate a new pump). If the valve is stuck but the pump gears are OK, you can try to clean it and see if it will then slide smoothly. If you get it freed up, then you can re-use the pump assy, but if you can't get the valve to slide freely, then you'll need to replace the pump assy. You can't drain all the fluid from the converter, so if the fluid was contaminated, then it's best to replace the converter.

Sorry for your bad luck, man! How true it is that a few seconds of fun often cost us far more than we want to pay....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How much do you think it would cost the shop to rebuild it? Ive never messed with a transmission and I really dont want to lol. Unless all that stuff is right there and easy to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And it is crazy how just a few seconds of fun can cost thousands. The local junk yard has a tranny for $1000 plus exchange. and I found a few places online that will ship them for $600ish. Im tore and I dont know what to do now.
 

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It depends on their labor rate. Best to call your shop and get a quote.

If you use the part prices I gave you, add about 14 quarts of fluid ($5.15 per quart if your dealer carries it in bulk), and figure 5 hours of labor at say $80 per hour, then you're looking at $1195, not including the R&R labor. But if you go with a rebuilt (or junkyard) tranny, you'll pay for R&R on top of that, also. So this will allow you to compare.

Like i said, it's best to get a firm quote, using the proper labor rate. Their time estimate may be different. I'm assuming they'll tear down the trans completely, clean and inspect it, and replace the pump, converter, and input clutch packs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It was including r&r. But I ended up maminf mine work. Tore it back apart and the seal for the flat filter was tore and not seated all the way. So we flushed it and put it all back together. Now its fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
nevermind on the fixed part.Drove it all day today. Probably put 30 miles without a problem. On my way home from work, going up a small hill, I lost all tranny. stopped on the side of the road, checked my fluid and it was right in between the hot holes. Now beings I was on a hill, when I put it in park, it rolled back so I had to set my e brake or else it was just rolling while in Park. Jumped back into it, and it took off for maybe another 200 ft. I had enough momentum to roll into my driveway. went to put it into park and there is a grinding noise. Just like if it wont engage all of the way. No CEL's or anything now. Any ideas?
 

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nevermind on the fixed part.Drove it all day today. Probably put 30 miles without a problem. On my way home from work, going up a small hill, I lost all tranny. stopped on the side of the road, checked my fluid and it was right in between the hot holes. Now beings I was on a hill, when I put it in park, it rolled back so I had to set my e brake or else it was just rolling while in Park. Jumped back into it, and it took off for maybe another 200 ft. I had enough momentum to roll into my driveway. went to put it into park and there is a grinding noise. Just like if it wont engage all of the way. No CEL's or anything now. Any ideas?
My first thought would be shifter cable adjustment is off (where trans is in between Park and Reverse when shift lever is in Park). Internal Park system failures are almost unheard of on this trans. Was the PRNDL indicator in the cluster reading "P"? Was the key in or out when it was rolling in Park?
 
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