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I want to drop my transmission pan to change my filters and fluid for my 2010 Ram 4x4, any body know what my refill capacity will be? Thanks
 

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Assuming you have a Ram 1500 (545rfe):

7 qts give or take about 1 qt. It will fill up with like 4 or so I think then once started and run through the gear positions it will drain down and need topped off a few times.

I'd HIGHLY recommend using mopar brand transmission filters (there is a spin on filter and a screen type filter inside the pan). I did mine with filters from advanced auto but after further research the spin on filter may or may not have the proper fluid drain back protection or something like that. I don't think it would do damage, just an inconvenience, but when I do it next time I'll use mopar filters. I actually haven't had issues so far (over 10k miles I think), but just as a precaution I'll use mopar trans filters from now on. I used castrol ATF 4+ from autozone. I was told all ATF 4+ fluid is basically the same so it doesn't matter which you use, so I used something affordable off the shelf (the castrol).

Also, the 4x4's and the 2x4's have different trans kits (different filters and different gaskets) IIRC.

I have a write up from when I did mine it has good info in it you could search for it.

The 2500's have a different trans(68rfe).
 

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The 545RFE & 65RFE are equipped with dual lubricant filters, including an internal main sump pan filter and an external canister-type pump return filter. The fluid capacity for service refill is 6.55 quarts (6.2 liters) and its fluid type is Mopar ATF +4.

The filters, or at least one of them, is 4X4 or 2X4 specific
My Ram is a 2 wheel drive & the Parts dept. sold me one for a 4 wheel drive, it was too large to put my transmission pan back on. I had to call the Parts people & have them deliver the correct part to where my Ram was being serviced
 

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Originally, there were two different main sump filters (the flat filters with snouts on them), and two different oil pans - one for 2WD and one for 4x4 models. The pans have a depression to clear the end of the inlet snout, but the inlet snout is in a slightly different location on 2WD vs 4x4, so if you use the wrong filter (or pan) you will not be able to get the pan on (it will bang into the filter inlet snout).

However, in the middle of 2010 MY (October 2009) we started using the "4x4 style" filter (and pan) on ALL RFE transmissions. And in 2011 MY (and late 2010 MY, starting March 2010), we started using a new common oil pan (with the same "4x4-style" filter).

So, ALL of the 4x4 trucks use the same sump filter. SOME of the 2WD trucks also use the 4x4 filter; some use the 2WD filter. If you are changing filters, compare the location of the inlet snout (the short metal snout, about 1-1/2 inches in diameter) to your old filter, to make sure you have the correct one. Look at how far the snout is from the end of the filter.

You can also tell what kind of pan you have. The 2WD pan is basically "flat" on the bottom (with a square bump in the middle), while the original 4x4 pan is stepped (basically has two different planes, front end is much deeper than the back end). The new common oil pan is kind of "stair-stepped"; it has three different levels (and sloped transitions between them) plus a small "kick" in the center to clear the filter snout.

As I mentioned, the original 4x4-style pan and the new common oil pan BOTH use the same (4x4-style) main sump filter. All RFE transmissions use the same spin-on (cooler return) filter.
 
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