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want to have trans fluid changed. what is the popular opinion on the best way to have this done, by machine that changes all the fluid or the old fashioned way where only part of the fluid is changed, driveway style. hopefully transengineer will chime in. tks all
 

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want to have trans fluid changed. what is the popular opinion on the best way to have this done, by machine that changes all the fluid or the old fashioned way where only part of the fluid is changed, driveway style. hopefully transengineer will chime in. tks all
Or I can chime in because I rebuild them. Anyway's if the vehicle has accumulated some miles and you have been good about changing fluid then I recommend you get a flush, many people are going to argue with me saying "oh no some stuff with get loose and clog up the valves" this is bull, I have seen transmission that have sat for years and opened then up and no gunk anywhere to be found, Chrysler fluid is a very clean detergent lube, and having the whole transmission flushed isn't going to hurt it in any way I don't care what anyone says I have enough experience to back my left testicle on this. Next thing, if you are trying to do a fluid change around a certain budget and the vehicle hasn't too many miles or the transmission has been serviced previously then a regular drop the pan and replace filter, gasket, fluid, and clean pan is fine. The stock filter doesn't do a real good job at filtering all particles but that's why there is a screen inside the valve body and inside the governor. Last but not least, adjust the bands. The rear band doesn't have to be adjusted quite as often as the front band because the rear band is only applied in reverse and manual low which we all know aren't used as often as our drive range gears are.

As far as budget is concerned, ATF+4 is expensive period, after a rebuild my fluid cost to fill up a transmission is around 90 bucks. I use Valvoline ATF+4, you can use any ATF+4 because it is a Chrysler proprietary fluid so it would need to be licensed (approved) by Chrysler to be sold as ATF+4 so you can even get the Wal-Mart brand fluid and it's ok, however I still stick with Valvoline, if you compare it Valvoline is much lighter and cleaner.

Ok all that out of the way if you have any questions I'm happy to answer them, by all means ask questions please.
 

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I have a question about fluid change also. My truck has 125K miles on it and as far as I know the transmission fluid has never been changed. I want to change it along with the filters, but I have heard that if a transmission has more than a certain amount of miles on it without a fluid change, the change(new fluid) will make the transmission mess up. Any thoughts on this??
:4-dontknow:
 

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A few thoughts:

1. RFE transmissions (like the 545RFE, etc.) do not have any bands, so no band adjustments are required. The older RE-series 4-speed transmissions (46RE, 47RE, 48RE) do have bands, so on those you will want to do a band adjustment.

2. Yes, any fluid that is labeled as MEETING the ATF+4® spec will work fine. Do not use fluids that are marketed as "replacement for" or "compatible with" ATF+4® (etc.). Some dealers stock Mopar ATF+4® in bulk (55 gallon drums). Last time I checked, this bulk fluid (sold by the quart) cost $5.15 list per quart. So you could check with your dealer and see if you can bring your own jug and buy some that way. The part number (for one quart of bulk fluid) is 68055894AA. Or see if you can find it cheaper at your local parts store, Wal-Mart, etc.

3. I don't know of any reason why changing the fluid and filters would cause a trans to get screwed up, UNLESS one of the filters (usually, the main sump filter) is installed incorrectly. The main sump filter has a snout that plugs into a bore in the pump housing. There is a seal at this connection (which is pressed into the pump bore). If the old seal is OK (no cuts or nicks, and won't easily pop out) then leave it in and re-use it. If you replace the seal, the new seal MUST be installed into the pump bore, and tapped in flush against the casting all the way around (not cocked). Do NOT put the seal on the filter snout!! The other filter (the spin-on one) goes on like a conventional engine oil filter. Spin it in until the gasket contacts the case face, then turn it another 1/2 turn or so BY HAND until it's snug. Do NOT overtorque it, since the threaded snout on this filter is plastic and will crack if you crank it down too tight.

4. The recommended fluid and filter change interval for RFE transmissions is 60,000 miles if used for police, fleet, taxi, or frequent trailer towing. Otherwise, it's 120,000 miles.
 

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A few thoughts:

1. RFE transmissions (like the 545RFE, etc.) do not have any bands, so no band adjustments are required. The older RE-series 4-speed transmissions (46RE, 47RE, 48RE) do have bands, so on those you will want to do a band adjustment.

2. Yes, any fluid that is labeled as MEETING the ATF+4® spec will work fine. Do not use fluids that are marketed as "replacement for" or "compatible with" ATF+4® (etc.). Some dealers stock Mopar ATF+4® in bulk (55 gallon drums). Last time I checked, this bulk fluid (sold by the quart) cost $5.15 list per quart. So you could check with your dealer and see if you can bring your own jug and buy some that way. The part number (for one quart of bulk fluid) is 68055894AA. Or see if you can find it cheaper at your local parts store, Wal-Mart, etc.

3. I don't know of any reason why changing the fluid and filters would cause a trans to get screwed up, UNLESS one of the filters (usually, the main sump filter) is installed incorrectly. The main sump filter has a snout that plugs into a bore in the pump housing. There is a seal at this connection (which is pressed into the pump bore). If the old seal is OK (no cuts or nicks, and won't easily pop out) then leave it in and re-use it. If you replace the seal, the new seal MUST be installed into the pump bore, and tapped in flush against the casting all the way around (not cocked). Do NOT put the seal on the filter snout!! The other filter (the spin-on one) goes on like a conventional engine oil filter. Spin it in until the gasket contacts the case face, then turn it another 1/2 turn or so BY HAND until it's snug. Do NOT overtorque it, since the threaded snout on this filter is plastic and will crack if you crank it down too tight.

4. The recommended fluid and filter change interval for RFE transmissions is 60,000 miles if used for police, fleet, taxi, or frequent trailer towing. Otherwise, it's 120,000 miles.

I don't care what transmission he has bands no bands, point is a flush isn't going to hurt an automatic transmission. I didn't say anything about filters hurting the transmission I was saying is the design is pitiful and not very efficient. Anyway's your team no offense, did a crap job at designing a transmission. I understand the principle of cost effective but you can design anything to perform and be cost effective. But anyway's, I have to disagree with you about fluid change intervals, I from my experience when towing would change the fluid often else wise just stick with every 50K miles, changing it sooner isn't going to harm it.
 

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I do a pan drop every 50,000 miles on my vehicles. Cheap insurance if you ask me.

http://ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=92056&highlight=545rfe
Finally someone who is fallowing my advice. I agree cheap insurance, unless you know how to rebuild a transmission you're going to have to expect to spend between 1200-2500 bucks for a rebuild or replacement. Spending 90 bucks for fluid every 50K miles will always cost less then 1200 bucks. I also know that chrysler transmissions aren't designed the best, they're simply designed yes, but many corners have been cut that shouldn't have. They run hot, have tons of drag, unrefined, and are slow as hell. I must admit chrysler has made leaps and bounds to improve there design, reducing parasitic drag by over 20% which helps with operating temps however they're still slow and unrefined and it's not just my opinion it's the opinion of many professional drivers in the consumer report, car and driver, so on so forth... But thanks my floridian brother.
 

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Well I don't want to get in the middle of this but I just want to say that I don't believe transengineer was singling you out for anything so I'm not sure why you are making several negative comments about him. We've had several tech's on the board and they often get run off because people commenting negatively about them or their job/employer. I think transengineer is a huge benefit to the forum and he has helped me out several times, I'd hate to see him run off as well. He's just sharing his thoughts...

Honestly the main reason I service all my transmissions at 50000 miles is because it's easy to remember lol.

EDIT: Just want to add that I think having you on the forum is a benefit as well ramvan
 

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Well I don't want to get in the middle of this but I just want to say that I don't believe transengineer was singling you out for anything so I'm not sure why you are making several negative comments about him. We've had several tech's on the board and they often get run off because people commenting negatively about them or their job/employer. I think transengineer is a huge benefit to the forum and he has helped me out several times, I'd hate to see him run off as well. He's just sharing his thoughts...

Honestly the main reason I service all my transmissions at 50000 miles is because it's easy to remember lol.

EDIT: Just want to add that I think having you on the forum is a benefit as well ramvan
I'm just yanking his chain a little, no harm no foul. Anyway's to transengineer and other members if I have cast aspersions please forgive me, I many time says thing I don't mean and lets be honest we are only human and all make mistakes.

Anyway's with all that aside, I am very nuts about fluid changes. It's just damn amazing how many people never change their fluids especially the transmission. The most overlooked systems on a vehicle is the transmission and cooling. They are neglected so much, people in my own family have neglected then causing blocks to clog, brown transmission fluid. It's just so horrible, this is one reason on top of my experiences that I am very strict on changing fluid often. The 50K thing is good if you forget kudos on that lol. But I tow a 32' travel trailer but at the same time I am a regular driver so it doesn't do well with me.

What I actually have it's smart idea. I keep a spiral bound notebook in my truck with all the service I have done. I put the mileage and date on the header and everything else I describe what I have done parts replaced so on and when the next fluid changes are. I also keep all my reciepts in my truck for all the parts because the warranty won't hold without the receipt (hate thermal paper receipts). Anywho, again to transengineer and anyone else I have offended, I make mistakes and I'm very sorry.
 

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:smileup:

I actually do the same and keep a notebook in the glove box with service history. I know what you mean about the damn receipts, can't read them after a year. I recently started photocopying all of them.
 

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:smileup:

I actually do the same and keep a notebook in the glove box with service history. I know what you mean about the damn receipts, can't read them after a year. I recently started photocopying all of them.
I always end up with grease all over them and they end up like being so translucent and then with the heat wow, now I just have a stack of paper I wish were hundred dollar bills lol.
 
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