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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 ram 1500 4x4 5.9 auto. When I'm pulling out I have times that it seems like the transmission does know which gear to stay in(especially if I accelerating hard). It will gear down then back up going back and forth. Sometime it doesn't shift and hits the limiter. It really doesn't seem to slip just not what gear to stay in. It doesn't seem as back when I pull out easy. No problem once I'm up to speed. Ideas??? I read something about the TPS sensor? What about the kick down cable adjustment?

Hope to get some ideas. Thanks!!!!!
 

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I have a 2002 ram 1500 4x4 5.9 auto. When I'm pulling out I have times that it seems like the transmission does know which gear to stay in(especially if I accelerating hard). It will gear down then back up going back and forth. Sometime it doesn't shift and hits the limiter. It really doesn't seem to slip just not what gear to stay in. It doesn't seem as back when I pull out easy. No problem once I'm up to speed. Ideas??? I read something about the TPS sensor? What about the kick down cable adjustment?

Hope to get some ideas. Thanks!!!!!
I rebuild them thar transmissions and I have a educated guess that it just may need a throttle cable adjustment, the TPS is actually used to determine the position of the throttle for proper engaugement of the torque converter and 4th gear.
 

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What's the best way of adjusting the cable going to the transmission?
Well their is only ONE way to adjust the cable and that's is at the throttle body. You want to try to adjust the cable so the throttle lever on the transmission moves in sync with the throttle on the throttle body neither it lagging behind or moving ahead. I will post a file with the instructions for adjustment, it's a factory manual and has pictures to assist you. I'll post the instructions tonight on this thread.
 

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I looked at the alignment but is looked to be good. Should I just try to go a knock at a time and test drive?
No I wouldn't go a knock at a time just incase something happens.

How you can tell if it's adjusted or not is if you open the throttle all the way up and can still pull about 1/4" more on the transmission throttle valve cable and the lever on the transmission moves in sync will the pulling.

What you may try doing might need a helper or could just use a clamp is to disconnect the cable from the throttle body and then go under the truck and have someone hold the throttle lever in it's resting position or can use a clamp to do it, then go back to the throttle body and adjust the cable from their by pulling on the cable firmly and align the cable so the mounting post on the throttle body lever and the cable hook are aligned with each other.

I do a completely different method which is difficult to explain but I visually adjust the cable so when the accelerator is at WOT I can't pull the throttle lever on the transmission open however when the throttle is at idle the lever is closed all the way. This method requires a bit of patience and a eagle eye but the results are golden.
 

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I looked at the alignment but is looked to be good. Should I just try to go a knock at a time and test drive?
Oh also, the adjustment might look good but it certainly doesn't mean that it is, I can pretty much promise you on a vehicle 5 years or older the cable has stretched. This adjustment is crucial because the transmission uses it to actually determine what gear to actually be in of course the governor contributs alot in this as well but the governor really just sets shift points. Anyway's getting off track their, the throttle valve is used by the valve body to know when to downshift as well, for example if you're crusing 50 and you want to pass someone you can do a partial throttle and the transmission will shift from 4th to 3rd, if you were to floor the pedal it will do a 4th to 2nd downshift. However at highspeeds usually highway speeds the downshift will be 4-3 with a 4-2 occasionally depends on the speed and RPM you're driving at.

In some instances if you're driving really slow and just floor it the valve will downshift from 2nd to 1st then once the pressure from the governor builds up on the 1-2 shift valve you will shift into 2nd and take off like a rocket from their.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I'll go through the complete adjustment process. I have also read about the govenor pressure solenoid going bad and causing the 1-2 shift to be delayed or hunt back and forth. This truck has the 46RE transmission.
 

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I'll go through the complete adjustment process. I have also read about the govenor pressure solenoid going bad and causing the 1-2 shift to be delayed or hunt back and forth. This truck has the 46RE transmission.
That is true a faulty gov solenoid can cause erratic 1-2 up shifts and 2-1 downshifts. However usually if the gov sensor is faulty you will have erratic shifts in all gears, sometimes it's the 1-2 shift solenoid that will cause issues, I am so use to the RH series because they have only 2 solenoids at most one for OD and one for TC and having very little electronics is not only cheaper to repair but easier to diagnose because those sensors are often faulty out of the box.

Anyway's just try giving that cable an adjustment, that cable acuates a lever on the transmission which moves a throttle valve in the valve body controlling line pressure, sometimes when it's out of adjustment you can have some funky 1-2 ups and 2-1 downs and of course 3-2 downs and 2-3 ups. Generally if the cable is adjusted tight then you will have higher rpm upshifts that are firmer which will be easier on the clutches. If you loosen the adjustment you will have early upshifts that are very soft and will result in clutch wear. If you do any kind of towing, racing, or just want acceleration try adjust the cable tighter, if you want to use it for regular driving then adjust it so the cable isn't to tight but is still tought. Please know that if you adjust it for higher rpm upshifts it is going to be somewhat difficult to maintain the vehicles speed when it is below 55.

If you have the cable adjusted for redline shifts if you are going about 35 MPH and you put the pedal to the metal then the transmission will actually downshift into 1st gear rev to redline then upshift to 2nd and the truck will take off like a rocket from there.
 

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Sounds like the transmission throttle valve needs attention. A repair/improver kit is under $40.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instructions/22771-03K-IN.pdf
I wouldn't put the cart before the horse yet. He might not have the cable adjusted properly yet, not many people get it adjusted right there first time. Actually many times you're going to adjust it over and over again until the transmission shifts the way you want it. The biggest issue with transmissions is they tend to have small internal leaks as they age because the seals harden and it makes it very difficult to tune the transmission to the way you want it. But I don't think he is having issues with the throttle valve, it's just the cable the issue is the sensitivity of the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I really need to spend some more time adjusting cable and finding the problem. I towed my 20ft enclosed trailer yesterday and it was much worse hunting for the 1-2 and 2-1 shift. It was cold this morning (27degs) and it shifted fine with the fuild cold and I'm guessing thicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Well I really need to spend some more time adjusting cable and finding the problem. I towed my 20ft enclosed trailer yesterday and it was much worse hunting for the 1-2 and 2-1 shift. It was cold this morning (27degs) and it shifted fine with the fuild cold and I'm guessing thicker.
Sometime when I was towing and a couple times today when it made to shift to second it was like it shifted to neutral. RPMs just flew up. CRAZY:doh:
 

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Sometime when I was towing and a couple times today when it made to shift to second it was like it shifted to neutral. RPMs just flew up. CRAZY:doh:
If it's free revving then that isn't good at all. You could have a leak at the valve body if it's free revving that or at worst it's slipping real bad but I would lay my dollar on a cross leak because these damn torque flites are prone to it, the biggest cross leak actually occurs with the pressure regulator valve in the valve body. But I'm not going to assume anything yet, best to get it all adjusted and if still no go then we can work from there, it's most likely just that cable, it can be tricky to adjust. Like Gen1dak posted, the valve bodies have issues with leaks in the throttle valve which makes adjustment a pain in the butt, sonnax makes a fix for this but I always will go the extra mile and try to adjust it before I have to spend 40 bucks.
 

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Well I really need to spend some more time adjusting cable and finding the problem. I towed my 20ft enclosed trailer yesterday and it was much worse hunting for the 1-2 and 2-1 shift. It was cold this morning (27degs) and it shifted fine with the fuild cold and I'm guessing thicker.
Yea, when ATF heats up it expands like something else. The issue with the fluid thinning out is if their are leaky seals you're going to loose more pressure with hot thin fluid then with thick cold fluid. But for towing try to adjust the cable so you can get redline shifts. How you do this is to disconnect the throttle valve cable from the throttle body and then floor the accelerator and adjust the throttle valve cable so when the cable hook lines up with the pin on the throttle body that the lever on the transmission is open as far as it can go. You will probably have to loosen it after a couple of test runs and would be best too, if you have it to tight or too loose it will cause issues with the transmission. Personally I hate the way they have it set at the factory but at the same time I hate having red line shifts because it wastes gas and it causes excessive downshifts, this is why adjusting the cable is also a PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If it's free revving then that isn't good at all. You could have a leak at the valve body if it's free revving that or at worst it's slipping real bad but I would lay my dollar on a cross leak because these damn torque flites are prone to it, the biggest cross leak actually occurs with the pressure regulator valve in the valve body. But I'm not going to assume anything yet, best to get it all adjusted and if still no go then we can work from there, it's most likely just that cable, it can be tricky to adjust. Like Gen1dak posted, the valve bodies have issues with leaks in the throttle valve which makes adjustment a pain in the butt, sonnax makes a fix for this but I always will go the extra mile and try to adjust it before I have to spend 40 bucks.
I have tried the throttle cable a little tight and a little loose. Not difference. When driving without trailer I still have times that it hunts the 1-2/2-1 shift and at times just revs like you shifted to neutral. When I'm towing I have much more of the over revving like its just going out of gear. This morning driving to work it shifted fine. ????????
 

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I have tried the throttle cable a little tight and a little loose. Not difference. When driving without trailer I still have times that it hunts the 1-2/2-1 shift and at times just revs like you shifted to neutral. When I'm towing I have much more of the over revving like its just going out of gear. This morning driving to work it shifted fine. ????????
Sounds like you are going to need to have the valve body rebuilt, most likely the 1-2 shift valve is sticking which is common another problem is the 1-2 timing valve the bore wares so it takes a while (revving) until the stuck 1-2 shift valve gets to work. I don't think the throttle valve is the problem, their is a reason ebay has so many rebuilt CHRYSLER valve bodies for sale! Anyway's I sent you an email tell me if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well... I found a problem. I thought I would change the trans fuild and when I dropped the pan I found parts in the pan. There is a wedge shaped part that has a ball socket on one end. The ball socket is broke which let the part drop out. Any ideas. I'm guessing its for a band.
 

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Well... I found a problem. I thought I would change the trans fuild and when I dropped the pan I found parts in the pan. There is a wedge shaped part that has a ball socket on one end. The ball socket is broke which let the part drop out. Any ideas. I'm guessing its for a band.
Yes that part is for the front band, the strut probably fell out and is laying on top of the valve body so you're going to have to remove the valve body. Either way the valve body has to be removed to have full access to the band. But now that part fell out you won't have a 2nd gear.

Now my idea, replace the little part. You can find one on ebay or you can go to the chrysler dealer but I advise ebay because it will cost you less body parts. The wedge shaped part is known to break because it's casted.
 
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