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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just bought my 96 RAM 1500, and one of the issues I am working on is the transmission. I have heard that the TPS, can affect shift points, so I replaced that. I still have to almost redline the truck for it to shift, or manually pop it from l1 to l2..and then shift to N goose it a little then drop it to D in order to get it to 3rd. I am thinking perhaps Shift Solenoid or Pressure governor solenoid? But I am hearing a whine that seems to be coming from the transmissions. Kinda sounds like I have a supercharger under the hood, or timing gears as opposed to a chain. Am I wasting my time with the solenoids? Any other suggestions? The previous owner says he did the tranny fluid change..and it still looks red..so not burnt. I will do another fluid / filter change...and was considering the solenoids while I have it open. Any help / suggestion would be greatly appreciated here! Thanks!:4-dontknow:
 

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So I just bought my 96 RAM 1500, and one of the issues I am working on is the transmission. I have heard that the TPS, can affect shift points, so I replaced that. I still have to almost redline the truck for it to shift, or manually pop it from l1 to l2..and then shift to N goose it a little then drop it to D in order to get it to 3rd. I am thinking perhaps Shift Solenoid or Pressure governor solenoid? But I am hearing a whine that seems to be coming from the transmissions. Kinda sounds like I have a supercharger under the hood, or timing gears as opposed to a chain. Am I wasting my time with the solenoids? Any other suggestions? The previous owner says he did the tranny fluid change..and it still looks red..so not burnt. I will do another fluid / filter change...and was considering the solenoids while I have it open. Any help / suggestion would be greatly appreciated here! Thanks!:4-dontknow:
It could be the solenoids but I doubt it because these older TF's are known to have problems like you describe when they get to older and they aren't usually associated with solenoids but with internals.

Anyway's to give you an educated guess, for the delayed 2-3 Shift or no 2-3 Shift can very well be due to a internal seal leak, probably the direct clutch drum inner lip seal, these leaks are due to a manufacture defect of the drum. If this seal is leaking it's common to find a slipping or no reverse.

A delayed or no 1-2 Shift can be due to a leaky Accumulator, can be because of bore wear or a broken accumulator piston or just leaky seals. (This isn't very common with daily driving)

A delayed 1-2 shift can also be because of a valve body fault mostly the valve body need to be rebuilt to clean out all of the metal powder that accumulates in the valve overtime. Also the kickdown band might just need adjustment, the kickdown band is applied on the direct drum to hold the sun gear in place to give you your 2nd gear, however I don't think this is the problem because you say if you shift it manually it shifts perfectly fine which rules out this band and it's servo. For the 1-2 shift however you cannot really diagnose it because it's going to usually work if you are shifting it manually because in manual 1st the transmission is applying the rear band to hold the rear planet carrier in place to give you gear. If you have a sluggish 3-4 shift it's probably the 3-4 shift spring found in the valve body, they are prone to breaking.

If you are able to shift it perfectly manually from 1st to 2nd then this is good, but if it's not doing it on it's own then it's probably related to the valve body, the 2-3 shifts can be due to the valve body as well but again it can be due to a leak, I would try cleaning out the valve body BEFORE worrying about rebuilding it.

For the sake of it have the truck hooked up to a scanner to check the sensors, get a real scanner connected like a Snap On MT, these are able to do more then read codes, they monitor sensors and everything like that. The little 100 dollar scanners at autozone don't do it and the ones that can are very restricted.

These transmissions are good except they have gotten a reputation for failing, it's due to the defective drums and the mechanics who use the wrong fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It could be the solenoids but I doubt it because these older TF's are known to have problems like you describe when they get to older and they aren't usually associated with solenoids but with internals.

Anyway's to give you an educated guess, for the delayed 2-3 Shift or no 2-3 Shift can very well be due to a internal seal leak, probably the direct clutch drum inner lip seal, these leaks are due to a manufacture defect of the drum. If this seal is leaking it's common to find a slipping or no reverse.

A delayed or no 1-2 Shift can be due to a leaky Accumulator, can be because of bore wear or a broken accumulator piston or just leaky seals. (This isn't very common with daily driving)

A delayed 1-2 shift can also be because of a valve body fault mostly the valve body need to be rebuilt to clean out all of the metal powder that accumulates in the valve overtime. Also the kickdown band might just need adjustment, the kickdown band is applied on the direct drum to hold the sun gear in place to give you your 2nd gear, however I don't think this is the problem because you say if you shift it manually it shifts perfectly fine which rules out this band and it's servo. For the 1-2 shift however you cannot really diagnose it because it's going to usually work if you are shifting it manually because in manual 1st the transmission is applying the rear band to hold the rear planet carrier in place to give you gear. If you have a sluggish 3-4 shift it's probably the 3-4 shift spring found in the valve body, they are prone to breaking.

If you are able to shift it perfectly manually from 1st to 2nd then this is good, but if it's not doing it on it's own then it's probably related to the valve body, the 2-3 shifts can be due to the valve body as well but again it can be due to a leak, I would try cleaning out the valve body BEFORE worrying about rebuilding it.

For the sake of it have the truck hooked up to a scanner to check the sensors, get a real scanner connected like a Snap On MT, these are able to do more then read codes, they monitor sensors and everything like that. The little 100 dollar scanners at autozone don't do it and the ones that can are very restricted.

These transmissions are good except they have gotten a reputation for failing, it's due to the defective drums and the mechanics who use the wrong fluid.

Would it make sense to try to find another valve body and clean it up? and then swap it in? This thing shifts into reverse like a champ..no problems there. The 1-2 shift, will eventually shift if I just leave it...but it almost redlines before it shifts. like the older transmissions when the vacuum module had a leak. I dont think the 2-3 shift would ever happen, unless I shifted to neutral and goosed the gas then shifted back to D. and then there is the whine.. Pump? maybe? almost sounds like no fluid pressure. am I off base with this thing?
 

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Would it make sense to try to find another valve body and clean it up? and then swap it in? This thing shifts into reverse like a champ..no problems there. The 1-2 shift, will eventually shift if I just leave it...but it almost redlines before it shifts. like the older transmissions when the vacuum module had a leak. I dont think the 2-3 shift would ever happen, unless I shifted to neutral and goosed the gas then shifted back to D. and then there is the whine.. Pump? maybe? almost sounds like no fluid pressure. am I off base with this thing?
Their isn't a vacuum module for these, they work purely on hydrualics and for the 46RE hydrualics/electronics.

The 1-2 Shift shouldn't occur at redline, now if you are doing WOT then it's going to have taller shifts then normal acceleration.

The 1-2 shift can be because of the accumulator, valve body, many things. Most of the diagnosis without being their is either hit or miss, the 2-3 shift diagnosis is usually correct leaking seal because this leak is very well known with these dang transmissions.

It is possible it's the pump, but It's hard to tell. Check the fluid level obviously.

Changing the valve body out is ok but it has to be the exact same valve body!
 
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