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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my truck starts easily and idles perfect when it's "cold" in the morning. as it starts to approach and reach normal operating temperature it stalls without warning unless i maintain an idle speed at/above 1500 rpm's (even then it might stall). once it stalls it will either restart and stall immediately or can take up to 2 hours to restart. the check engine light is always OFF... this problem has been getting progressively worse over the last 2 weeks...

this is what i've checked/replaced so far...

-cleaned battery terminals
-replaced distributor cap & rotor
-replaced spark plugs & wires
-replaced catalytic convertor
-replaced downstream o2 sensor
-checked air filter & housing
-cleaned IAC valve
-checked fuel pressure OK
-filled tank w/ fresh fuel
-used fuel system cleaner
-used "dry gas"

i'm at a complete loss at this point??? i was reading that it could be a corroded PCM or PDC circuit board??? i might buy a new volt/ohm meter and start checking sensors, PCM voltages, relays, etc. i'd hate to take it to the repair shop and pay $100 to have them tell me it's a $10 sensor...
 

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my truck starts easily and idles perfect when it's "cold" in the morning. as it starts to approach and reach normal operating temperature it stalls without warning unless i maintain an idle speed at/above 1500 rpm's (even then it might stall). once it stalls it will either restart and stall immediately or can take up to 2 hours to restart. the check engine light is always OFF... this problem has been getting progressively worse over the last 2 weeks...

this is what i've checked/replaced so far...

-cleaned battery terminals
-replaced distributor cap & rotor
-replaced spark plugs & wires
-replaced catalytic convertor
-replaced downstream o2 sensor
-checked air filter & housing
-cleaned IAC valve
-checked fuel pressure OK
-filled tank w/ fresh fuel
-used fuel system cleaner
-used "dry gas"

i'm at a complete loss at this point??? i was reading that it could be a corroded PCM or PDC circuit board??? i might buy a new volt/ohm meter and start checking sensors, PCM voltages, relays, etc. i'd hate to take it to the repair shop and pay $100 to have them tell me it's a $10 sensor...
It could be anything. Ecm even a temperature sensor. All I know is that it is going to be something that occurs only in closed loop but not in open loop. So it might be a bad ECM, but you would need to find a chart that lists the operations in open and closed loop and find the operations that occur in closed loop but not in open look then you can go and check the required parts for faults.
 

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My father and I ran into this problem with my 94 Dodge Dakota. Whats happing is the CPS is not advancing the timing. Replace the CPS.
 

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First thing I'd check is the temperature sensor. It's a $14.00 part and if it's bad and sending 0-infinite ohms it can cause the problems you're describing. Especially after the truck is warmed up since it's getting a false reading and doesn't know it's warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
so i bought a digital multimeter from Advance Auto for $35 and checked voltages good at the TPS, MAP sensor, and IAC valve. Then i checked input voltages and resistances good for the IAT sensor and ECT sensor. i removed the IAC valve and tested it bad for pintle movement so i bought a new one for $46 and replaced it. the new IAC valve completely fixed the problem and my truck idles perfectly at startup and "at temp". i went for a test drive and noticed if i'm not accelerating the tach is pegged at 600 RPM's! from what i've read Dodge recommends replacing the IAC valve at 200,000 miles anyway and it just made sense... idle problems, replace the idle air control valve... Thanks to everyone that replied with good suggestions!
 

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Same symptoms

Hi Tom,

My truck has been doing the same thing. I get a about 1.5 miles from my truck the temp reaches about the same as well, and then......yes of course it STALLS.

My girlfriend said my truck is just marking its spot at the same fire hydrant.

Well I have replace these Items:

In Oct. 2011 I replaced the TPS sensor because of right turns. after that is run great. We camped 4x4 miles and miles of smooth 4x4ing.

Since it started stalling in the same place from my house. I have replaced the crank/cam shaft sensor the IAC. Didn't seem to help. I have run it with a fuel pressure tester. I has excellent pressure and starts up every time after a couple min.

I will Keep you posted as to what if find.

I wish you luck and the best.

RMT
 

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Has any one had any new findings with this issue I have a similar issue with my 99 v10 it will run good for a couple blocks once it's nice and warm it will stall out and it is impossible to restart it until it has about 30 minutes to cool down. No check engine lights are on or stored.
 

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Has any one had any new findings with this issue I have a similar issue with my 99 v10 it will run good for a couple blocks once it's nice and warm it will stall out and it is impossible to restart it until it has about 30 minutes to cool down. No check engine lights are on or stored.
Did it just start doing this or has yours been ongoing? What have you done to rule possible causes out? I have my suspicions but want to more background.
 
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