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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I waited for my Vararam to make an impression in my hood. Checked again today and it is clear that it is NOT sealing at the passenger side rear curve area. I placed a Marmot headlamp into the tray at this corner, shining upwards, and made a movie by placing my cell on the old intake area while I shut the hood. Sure enough, you can plainly see light spilling out from the Vararam tray. In the photo this leak is evidenced also by the debris field seen scattered beyond the leak - it is the area where the perimeter impression that the Vararam leaves is BROKEN and there is NO impression. Clearly the seal is non-existent at that point on the curve.




Var
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It comes to mind, when you look at the photo of a sport hood, that due to the elevated areas on that hood the sport models may inherently be more prone to seal failures.

I 'could' pull the hood liner and bolster it's thickness with foam, but I am not sure that's something I wish to pursue. Modifying my truck wasn't part of the sales pitch...


Var
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've thought about this over the last few hrs and I think I know whats going on.

The sport hood appears to have contours in it that create a negative space behind the hood liner. If that is true then air rushing into the tray may be under enough pressure to force the hood liner up. I've put 500km on the Vararam now, and this appears to be enough to have created a memory in the hood liner material created by this bypass pressure.

I would think the solution on sport hoods is to pull the hood liner and adhere rectangular plate of something like 3/16 plexiglass. The plate would have to be large enough go beyond the the seal perimeter below. This static backing to the hood liner would allow the Vararam to seal more positively, defeating random blow bys. If the hood insert areas need to be back filled with foam, while the liner is off to insure no lifting of the hood liner then so be it.

This issue has a solution. When the snow stops and it warms up later in the week I'll pull the liner and explore my options.


Var
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the input Patrick,

Yes, I've considered that. I believe I'll have excess coupler because I snugged the tray right now onto it when I installed. Therefore I should be able to loosen the upper connector and slide the tray tube out a half inch or so.

What I have to be cognizant of is raising the 'enitre' tray too high to the point where it is damaged by the hood. Keep in mind there seems to be just that one 5" stretch that breeches.

The hood liner in that spot has been forced upwards by air pressure I believe and will always be a weak spot in the system. IF the hood were a solid plane, then the interface would have more integrity.

My plan is to artificially create that 'solid plane', by fabricating a hood liner reinforcement as described above. I think the breech has done it's damage and rasing the tray may not achieve a satisfactory solution. The hood liner already has a memory and is permanently deformed now...

Did you guys test on a sport? Have other sport hood users had this experience?

**And as noted above the upper tray seal is NOT level. Is it supposed to be? Back in the rear/passenger seal curve it RISES higher than anywhere else on the tray.

I'm not sure whether this is by design, or was let through due to poorer quality control.

It also occurs to me that the HIGH portion of the seal may have forced the hood liner, and not air pressure. I'm not sure.

**And I'd REALLY like to know if this sort of breech in your Air Grabber CAI is detrimental to it's efficiency and to what degree if it is.


Thanks!


Var
 

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I sent your questions to our tech, here is his reply.
We tested on many different trucks with the sport hood combination, some were the 2014 units. We always cover a minimum mileage of 12,000 miles before the release of any VR unit. We do this on multiple combinations. Some will cover well over 12,000 miles. We try to use all types of test vehicles, from drag racers to cross country tow vehicles. This is done in an effort to put the units through every type of test situation until failure.
The Hood Liner: The indentions on the liner are normal. A gap in one corner is usually caused from twist/tilt to one side during installation.
You may want to try loosening the hose clamp on the VR unit and closing the hood. Then open the hood and tighten the clamp. Check the seal at this point. This is a quick way to SET the angles to match the fit under your hood.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Patrick,

I like that logic. I have something they need to know though .. the BUMP in the vertical plastic tray side, which the seal is sewn onto.

IF that BUMP is not normal, then it will always factor into the seal seating properly. That BUMP will always push up into the hood liner before any other part of the seal.

Doing so will undermine it's ability to seal . It would be akin to a large bowl having a high spot (BUMP) on it's rim. Flip it over on the table, and what happens? It ends up with a space adjacent to that bump.

So when this blizzard stops in a day or so, I will gladly try raising the tray. I'm only saying that the irregularity in the seal height MAY factor into the fitment of the seal on the liner.

I'm still not certain from the tech feedback, whether the seal height irregularity is normal or not. The more I raise the coupler, and the more I force the seal to compress, the more that BUMP will manifest because the seal will no longer be able to compress in that elevated portion, and the plastic bump below it will collide with the hood, potentially allowing a space adjacent to it, much like the bowl example.


Var
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I also have this observation now that I think about it.

PRIOR to tightening the coupler onto the TB I worked at getting the leading area of the tray where it curves over the rad. It did NOT seem to want to sit down properly. You have to force it down until the 3 screw heads at the interface pop over a part of the rad and then it stays.

When I got it to snap down, and then looked at the coupler's position on the TB I didn't like what I saw. The coupler was pulled up at the back of the TB. It naturally wanted to ride up so that the leading edge could be seated over the rad.

I lifted the leading edge off the rad, and then cinched the coupler back down on the TB, and then tightened it down. And THEN went back and clicked the leading edge of the tray into place over the rad.

I wonder if that affected how it sits?


Var
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could you take some pics of the unit on the truck so we can see exactly what is going on. Several pics would be good
Thanks

Sure Pat. It's a blizzard out, so I'll see what photos I have on the PC, and with other's I take tomorrow I'll post up then.


Thanks!

Var
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I found this picture on my PC. It doesn't accurately depict the bump but it does show the rear curves where the salt residue is missing. These are, I suspect, areas of blow by. They would likely coincide with the sport hood's negative voids, allowing a weakness in the seal/liner interface.



More to come tomorrow!

Var
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another photo. It's so damn tough to illustrate that bump I mention. Hoping this photo shows it. It's there but understated .. you'd almost have to see it in person.



Incidentally there is another guy I just saw posting in the 5.7 HEMI performance area that has a thread going. He seems dismayed with the Air Grabber, but his issue seems similar to mine. He put flour on the upper portion of the AG seal and closed the hood. Clearly you can see that much of the AG isn't contacting the hood liner, particularly where the hood rises and leaves a negative void below.

I've asked him to try loosening the upper connector (AG tube to silicone tube) and after raising the tray, close the hood while loose, and then immediately tighten the connector again.

I'm going to try this as well when I have the first chance.


Cheers,

Var
 
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