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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry I know theirs 100's of threads out there,but couldn't find a true solution.
So here it is I bought a 96 2500 4x4 with 120000 , seller stated it ran good but was hung up in first gear (I paid 600. for it) knowing I would need to drop a tranny in it . A friend of mine told me that a good trans flush with new filter plus replacing the Gov pres solenoid and sensor could take care of the problem, well hoping for a cheap fix , did it; well got it shifting but it takes 4000 rpm and bump of pedal to shift it into second when in second to much accel will kick it down to first if I manual shift it , seems like there's no second up shift or down shift , now once in third shifts fine , theirs no noise from trans strong reverse, shift 3-4 and od no problem just second seems to be giving me a problem , I have a trans lined up , but if there is something im missing that could correct this one then I can stick a grand into something else.
any input would be appreciated.

Also, no I have not had the trans scanned only scan done was a obdII eng scan which showed o2 sensor, and yes I used AFT+4 for fluid
 

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Sorry I know theirs 100's of threads out there,but couldn't find a true solution.
So here it is I bought a 96 2500 4x4 with 120000 , seller stated it ran good but was hung up in first gear (I paid 600. for it) knowing I would need to drop a tranny in it . A friend of mine told me that a good trans flush with new filter plus replacing the Gov pres solenoid and sensor could take care of the problem, well hoping for a cheap fix , did it; well got it shifting but it takes 4000 rpm and bump of pedal to shift it into second when in second to much accel will kick it down to first if I manual shift it , seems like there's no second up shift or down shift , now once in third shifts fine , theirs no noise from trans strong reverse, shift 3-4 and od no problem just second seems to be giving me a problem , I have a trans lined up , but if there is something im missing that could correct this one then I can stick a grand into something else.
any input would be appreciated.


Also, no I have not had the trans scanned only scan done was a obdII eng scan which showed o2 sensor, and yes I used AFT+4 for fluid

Ok, if you are having a problem with first gear with the gear selector in drive then you probably have overruning clutch issue. At 120K miles you shouldn't but what might have happened is the previous owner or a previous owner might of tried to do burnouts and didn't know you aren't suppose to in 1st gear because you risk damaging the overrunning clutch. Anyway's you're better off rebuilding the transmission. It's quick cheap easy to do so. As for 2nd gear you might need to adjust the kickdown band, if that band is adjusted then it can be many things. The rear clutch could be burned however if it was then you wouldn't have 3rd or 4th. So it can be a burned kickdown band, kickdown servo can be leaking some, possible valve body clog. Many things, you will have to remove the transmission. At 120k miles and 600 bucks I wouldn't trust it unless it is rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Ramvan , I did some research today in some manuals and what I read matches pretty much your thought, so I have a used tranny I picked up for 300 I think ill through that in so I can use it , while I rebuild the one in there , any suggestions on beefing it up ? I was thinking more clutch pads, maybe HV pump, this truck is a puller and plower like to beef it up if I can.
 

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Thanks for the reply Ramvan , I did some research today in some manuals and what I read matches pretty much your thought, so I have a used tranny I picked up for 300 I think ill through that in so I can use it , while I rebuild the one in there , any suggestions on beefing it up ? I was thinking more clutch pads, maybe HV pump, this truck is a puller and plower like to beef it up if I can.
Well I rebuild them so I am more then happy to give you many suggestions.
I have had great results with the use of Alto Red Eagle Frictions and Alto Kolene Steels.

You don't need to worry any bit about the pump, the pump volume is actually decent, usually the flow is 1 quart per 10 seconds which is twice the minimum accepted amount.

I recommend you install and external cooler as well, especially since you plan to plow with the unit.

During the rebuild replace all the bushings, bearings, and washers.

Replace the stock planets, use a 6 pinion steel for the rear planet and a 5 or 6 pinion steel for the front planet. You don't need to upgrade the OD Planet because if you tow or plow you will do that outside of OD, however if you want to have a sense of security you can replace that OD Planet as well, to be honest you might have to replace that planet if it's worn.

Rebuild the valve body, use the original seperator plate. Don't listen to what anyone says, the original valve body plate has a exhaust valve cut out and the replacement plates have the cut out as well however the cut out doesn't match the specifications and may cause shudder only if you have a lockup converter. You should replace the 3-4 accumulator spring, even if it's not broken, It may be stressed and lost it's springiness.

Their are many more upgrades however I cannot pull any out of my hat at the momment. for parts i use makcotransmissionparts.com the frictions and steels are shipping manufacture direct.
 

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You can also upgrade the number of frictions and steels however it isn't going to make to big a difference. Oh when you do rebuild the transmission pay attention to the front clutch drum, the drum has a groove for the inner lip seal and on many transmissions the groove was machined to deep causing the inner lip seal to fall into the groove not allowing a positive seal, many aftermarket providers have a oversized lip seal this will help improve the 2-3 shift and reverse slipping. The base size would be .170" the original is .130"
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Great info , thanks a bunch, can I buy a rebuild kit or do I have to by it by individual pieces? would you recommend a low stall or high stall torque converter? one last thing I heard that the inline check valves have become a problem would you suggest I remove them?
 

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Great info , thanks a bunch, can I buy a rebuild kit or do I have to by it by individual pieces? would you recommend a low stall or high stall torque converter? one last thing I heard that the inline check valves have become a problem would you suggest I remove them?
You can certainly buy a rebuild kit. Makco even has a rebuild kit with alto parts, majority of those rebuild kits don't include the friction plates. I also buy individually because you get want you want and what you need.

As for the torque converter, it depends on what the vehicle use is, but typically a high still converter. Actually when you remove the old converter their should be a 3 digit code written on the converter, you can use this code to cross reference to after market converter manufactures, even the advanced auto parts converters are good. High stall between 1600-2200 RPM.

Their anti-drain back valve should be the only valve that should be removed. However removing this will allow the torque converter to drain after the vehicle has sat for time. You would just need to put the vehicle in neutral for 30 seconds for it to fill up or you can add an external cooler that is positioned higher then the torque converter this will prevent the fluid from draining (physics). Also if you install an external cooler, make is so the hot fluid has to flow up, this will allow a steady flow of transmission fluid to travel to the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well Ramvan thanks so much for all the info , I will be pulling this transmission this week-end to through in the used one, I am going to order the kit today , probably take me a week or so to do the rebuild as I never taken one apart. I do have tech manual and CD to view so I will take my time , I assume that if I was able to rebuild turbine engines while was in the Navy im pretty sure I can handle this lol. ill keep you updated with the progress and results.Thanks again for your inputs.
 

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Well Ramvan thanks so much for all the info , I will be pulling this transmission this week-end to through in the used one, I am going to order the kit today , probably take me a week or so to do the rebuild as I never taken one apart. I do have tech manual and CD to view so I will take my time , I assume that if I was able to rebuild turbine engines while was in the Navy im pretty sure I can handle this lol. ill keep you updated with the progress and results.Thanks again for your inputs.
If you get stuck during the rebuild or have any questions just ask. I know these older torque flites pretty well, especially since I have rebuilt one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well Ramvan I told you i would keep you updated, have the bad trans out and installed the used one , now drives fine. my kit is ordered should be here Mon or Tue , I started to disassemble it and low behold the kick down band is bad. when I took the valve body off found a thin piece of metal, I assume it was the kick down band anchor.their was some sludge build up in the valve body. hope to start rebuild next week. Is their anything else I should pay attention too as for as hardware is concerned.
 

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Well Ramvan I told you i would keep you updated, have the bad trans out and installed the used one , now drives fine. my kit is ordered should be here Mon or Tue , I started to disassemble it and low behold the kick down band is bad. when I took the valve body off found a thin piece of metal, I assume it was the kick down band anchor.their was some sludge build up in the valve body. hope to start rebuild next week. Is their anything else I should pay attention too as for as hardware is concerned.
Yes pay attention to the planetary gears, especially the rear planet. The front planet should have very little side to side play or slop, the rear planet as well should have extrememly little side to side play, it is not uncommon to find the rear planet's gears to be completely worn, if you take the rear planet and put it into the ring gear and are able to move it from side to side then it should be replaced else wise you will end up with a horrible rumbling noise and vibrations and eventually you will have to completely rebuild the transmission. I rebuilt mine and didn't replace my rear planet and yesterday I had to remove my transmission just to replace the rear planet, now I have rear end vibrations because of a bad axle and a unbalanced driveshaft.

So pay attention to the planets. When rebuilding the valve body use all the original parts, do not replace the seperator plates at all. I had done this and it will cause shudder. I had to go back and put the old seperator back on.

If you want to prevent the kickdown strut from falling out adjust the bands periodically, that simple.

Also be sure to make all the proper play measuremens, I'm sure you have a atsg manual or a service manual that will tell you what to measure and what the specifications are.

Like said before, keep a close eye on the forward clutch also known as the direct drum, the inner lip seal for it's piston. The groove that was machine into the drum for the lip seal might have been machined to much and the lip seal won't protrude enough to seal the piston, most rebuild kits will have two inner lip seals for that clutch, one is a oversized incase you are affected.

Also, keep an eye out on the overdrive direct clutch hub, the inner splines that spline to the OD sun gear, if this hub has any burrs replace the hub.

Don't use an kevlar or carbon bands, just use old fashion stock replacements. Using those other bands will damage the hard parts, which cost much more then bands.
 
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