[Graphic]

So I installed the factory trailer brake controller and getting it programmed into the truck today...

Looking for input. Should I install a bolt on hitch assembly or just go with the bumper mounted hitch receiver? I don't see many spec differences between the two, so I wonder what advantages one might have over the other.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Maurice303]

I was told by the dealer when I purchased my truck the bumper only has a 5000 lbs capacity so you would want the hitch receiver if you are planning on hauling more than 5000 lbs.

 

[WVdan]

Hitch receiver

 

[Graphic]

OK, I think I should clarify...

Rereading what I posted makes me feel a little confused myself. And I know what I meant to say...:thk:

Option 1: By bumper mounted hitch assembly, I mean the OEM receive 2" square receiver that bolts through the top of the bumper to the steel frame underneath. Already on truck.:smiley_thumbs_up:

Option 2: By bolt on hitch assembly I mean the type one would go down to U-haul or wherever and have installed on the truck.

I will be pulling a travel trailer, about 4500lbs, with a weight distributing hitch.

 

[Bob1340]

OK, I think I should clarify...

Rereading what I posted makes me feel a little confused myself. And I know what I meant to say...:thk:

Option 1: By bumper mounted hitch assembly, I mean the OEM receive 2" square receiver that bolts through the top of the bumper to the steel frame underneath. Already on truck.:smiley_thumbs_up:

Option 2: By bolt on hitch assembly I mean the type one would go down to U-haul or wherever and have installed on the truck.

I will be pulling a travel trailer, about 4500lbs, with a weight distributing hitch.

So you are saying you have the factory hitch? Look under the truck. Is this welded to a approximate 3" diameter tube that is bolted to the frame on either side of the spare tire or just a receiver bolted to the bumper? If you have a factory hitch it's a class IV hitch good for 5000 lbs or 10,000 with a WDH.

 

[GTyankee]

Factory installed hitches are Class 4 , they bolt only to the main frame, nothing is bolted to the rear bumper

common Class 4
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C14006.html

Class 3 hitches have a bumper bolt & 2 bolts that mount to a weak part of a sub frame

common Class 3

look at the Etrailer website for the best all around hitch information

 

[456MORam]

I've got the Curt 13333 class 3 which is the type you describe in option 1. You are correct you drop a big bolt down thru the bumper, and a couple more bolts pick up in the back in the "factory receiver hitch" framing. It's (curt brand specifically) rated for 600/6000 and 1000/10000 with weight distribution. Sounds like it would work fine for your intended purpose. It was cheap and easy to install. I hauled 5700lb load recently, not an issue, but it theoretically put me right in the neighborhood of the 600lb tounge rating, without weight distribution. I wouldn't call the subframe it bolts into "weak", that's essentially the factory reciever framing.

Curt also offers a class 4, 14374, which is the style you describe in option 2. Its rated 1000/10000 and 1200/12000 WD. It's about another 100 bucks, and is not much more complicated to install. If I was doing it over again I may have gone this route. It would essentially exceed my trucks towing capacity without weight distribution, so I'd never have to worry about going over tounge weight without weight distribution. I don't think it looks quite as clean and it would probably be overkill for me, so I probably made the right decision after all.

Your call.

 

[Maurice303]

I went and took a pick of what is on my truck.

bumper

oem class iv hitch

 

[Graphic]

I went and took a pick of what is on my truck.

bumper

oem class iv hitch

That is the same as what I have, at least pretty darn close. Thanks for taking the time for pictures!

 

[456MORam]

The Curt class 3 has a very similar installed look to maurice303's factory class 4. The Curt bolts into the same reciever structure the factory receiver is welded to, and the Curt gets a large bolt thru the the bumper where a ball would go.

One thing I found a bit ironic. If I remember correctly the factory class 4 optional reciever was rated at 500/5000 without WD. The Curt class 3 reciever is rated at 600/6000 without weight distribution.

 

[Bob1340]

Just get a Curt class 4 and cover the bases. It is very much stronger than the factory class 4.

 

[Rockit]

the Mopar one is about $150 from the dealer

 

[Bob1340]

the Mopar one is about $150 from the dealer

And he could buy a Curt on Amazon for the same price. The Curt retains the same frame mounted bracket that RAM uses as a Class IV hitch. So basically you add quite a bit of heft. It does not replace the factory bracket, it ties into it.

I had the factory IV hitch on my 2009 1500. To me it looked pretty wimpy. I got the Curt (which won't fit a truck with the factory IV hitch) and removed the factory crossbar and cut off the factory IV receiver and put it and the new Curt back in. Much more stout than the factory hitch and a good price.

I put a pic below showing what I am talking about. This is not my truck but it's the same deal. You can see the factory cross arm on the truck already and the similar Curt cross arm which will tie into the factory unit.
Go strong.

 

[Bob1340]

As as an explanation--The Curt will not fit a truck with the factory IV hitch as the factory unit interferes. The factory IV hitch is a 2" receiver welded to the cross menebr tube that is on all the trucks. So you ether need to purchase the stock non-IV cross member or do like I did and cut the old receiver off. If me thinks correct the OP has a bolt on III hitch so the Curt would be a simple bolt in.
I now have a 2500 Mega Cab with the Class V 2.5" receiver hitch. The Curt unit sure looks stronger than my Class V hitch on this new truck!

 

[Graphic]

Thanks for all the responses. Yes I have the Class III bolt on receiver. I think that will do for my purposes. I have nothing heavier than the TT ar ~ 4500 pounds.

 

[Thunderhorse]

Per the owner's manual, the factory hitch is rated to 11,000 lbs, but the truck is not.

Mopar and Curt are both good, though I like Curt so I'd probably go with that one if Thunderhorse didn't come with a hitch-just don't tow from the bumper whatever you do. There are 0 things towing off the bumper is better for compared to using an actual hitch except cost; and doing stuff cheap is infrequently the best way.

 

[SuperRam1500]

I am a big fan of Curt. I have used them on my last 4 vehicles.

 

[buddyc234]

As as an explanation--The Curt will not fit a truck with the factory IV hitch as the factory unit interferes. The factory IV hitch is a 2" receiver welded to the cross menebr tube that is on all the trucks. So you ether need to purchase the stock non-IV cross member or do like I did and cut the old receiver off. If me thinks correct the OP has a bolt on III hitch so the Curt would be a simple bolt in.
I now have a 2500 Mega Cab with the Class V 2.5" receiver hitch. The Curt unit sure looks stronger than my Class V hitch on this new truck!

How did this turn out? Any trouble cutting the old hitch out or installing the Curt?

 

[Bob1340]

How did this turn out? Any trouble cutting the old hitch out or installing the Curt?

I did this to my 2009 RAM 1500 almost 2 years ago. Not a bad job if you got the proper stuff. I removed the factory hitch and using a 4.5 cut off grinder, torch, and grinder I got the factory tow crossbar to look like a non-tow crossbar. I painted it so it wouldn't rust and put it back on and added the curt.

 

[gusman]

My buddy installed that bolt on class 3 to his 2012 express. He was hauling my dump trailer for me while I had the mowing unit in tow and needless to say it's bent downwards pretty good now after a little bounce over a set of railroad tracks.. and yes it was installed correctly. Class IV is the way to go IMO