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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I've done several 4-hour towing trips this season and noticed the whining sound at speeds 0 to 60 kmh is getting lauder with every trip. Now the sound is loud even when not towing.

The truck is 2012 1500 5.7hemi 140k towing 5000lb camper.

The noise tone is correlated with vehicle speed (not the engine speed). No noise when rolling on neutral or when the vehicle is not moving.
When vehicle starts from the stopped position the whining sound level changes every driving shaft rotation, first slowly then faster as the truck accelerates. Over 60kmh the noise gets somewhat queiter but it's still there.

I recently changed both differentials and transfer case fluids and they were OK.

The sound recording (attached) reflect changes in sound between speeds 5 and 40 kmh. The recording done with my phone is not the best. In real life the sound is quite loud.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 

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Most likely a bearing is failing, usually a pinion bearing.


What gear lube did you put in when you changed it?


I don't open zip files, so I didn't hear the clip to be honest but from the description that is what a pinion bearing failing in the rear end sounds like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Lube was done at Jiffylube. They would go by the book.
Sorry about the Zip file. My first post here - I didn't know how to attach a sound file.
When I drove the truck this morning (no trailer), I noticed the noise most pronounced when there is a load on the shaft: accelerating as well as engine breaking, both low speeds.
Thanks

PS. Is there a better way to attach a sound file here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I checked the driveshaft for lateral or vertical play and there is none. There is quite a rotational shaft play - almost quarter inch on the point on the outside of the yoke.

Wouldn't failing bearing produce some lateral play? At this point the play seems to be inside of the differential, producing rotational backlash.

Just to make it clear - I will take the truck to the shop. I just want to get some ideas here so I know what I will be talking about.

I really count on you guys to get feedback before tomorrow.

All help is appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the feedback (or thanks to pacofortacos ???). The truck is in the shop now. When they fix it I will (hopefully) have my answers.
 

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Usually if it is a pinion bearing - and usually it is - you will not get any lateral play.
Usually it is one of the bearings or bearing race has started to pit, so not much if any extra play - until it is way too late.


Rotational play is ring and pinion backlash - usually makes a different noise and usually only on acceleration or deceleration. 1/4" rotational play is a little bit but not way out of line. That 1/4" you feel is most likely pinion to ring gear + differential carrier to axle play.


If towing, ONLY use full synthetic 75-110 or 75-140 depending on load. And if you want it to live use Redline or Amsoil Severe Gear.
Depending on how much you tow, the load, and the route you may want to change your rear gear oil much more often. If a heavy load, hilly route and several trips a year, I would change the gear oil every 2-3 years.


I would not rely on Jiffylube for a premium gear lube - I would really be surprised if it is even the correct weight.


When towing, there is a need for a premium lube.



I am not sure on your 2012, but on my 2016 there is a drain plug built right into the rear end - if yours is the same it is really easy to drain and fill the rearend gear lube. I mean it is so easy a monkey could do it.
 

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He should be using 75W-140, not 75W-110
 

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I didn't look to see which rear a 12 had. The old 9.25 rears, if I am not mistaken called for a 75-90 and I really don't know when they quit using those.



I won't tell you that I run 75-90 then and always have with no issue - but I change it every 10,000 miles on average and only run the best of the best. I do have some 75-110 Redline I am going to try but want to see if it feels too thick in the dead of winter.
I would probably run heavy shockproof before a pure 80-140 gear lube.


Now if I could hook up the fancy rearend heat exchanger that is on the 19's, I would go to the 80-140 then. I might have to look into that plumbing setup.
 

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The 9.25 in the 1500s has specified 75w-140 since at least 2009. The HDs spec 75W-90 but they're a different axle so that really has no bearing (get it? Lol) here
 

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They must have learned from the 9.25's before 09 then.


In my 01, I never ran more than 75-90 and never had any bearing failure. I only use the truck for towing or full bed and cab trips. But I also over do maintenance on certain things like rearend lube and oil changes.


75-90 and lifetime fill mixed with towing is often not a good combo.


Thanks for the update!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys!
The shop just called and said it was just a bearing. I asked what kind of oil he put in. He said 80-90. He said he wouldn't do 75-140. I'll know more when I pick up the truck from the shop.
 

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Thanks guys!
The shop just called and said it was just a bearing. I asked what kind of oil he put in. He said 80-90. He said he wouldn't do 75-140. I'll know more when I pick up the truck from the shop.
He...wouldn't put the correct weight oil in it?

I probably wouldn't go back to him
 

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I would ask what brand and whether synthetic or not also.


I agree with Thunderhorse, for a 5000lb trailer you need a bit heavier gear oil if towing any distance. If you don't want to do that, I would at least change it every couple of years.

Being in Canada, I can see being a bit hesitant to 75-140 even though that is what it calls for in the manual. 75-110 would be a good compromised between towing and cold weather performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So the truck is back and rear is quiet as a mouse. The shop replaced all bearings at the rear even though only the pinion bearing was worn out. They put semi synthetic 80-90 oil in. When I asked about 75-140 the shop owner said that Ford quit using it a few years back, so did he.
The rear differential doesn't have a drain hole so the oil needs to pumped out. I will probably replace it in a couple of years with full synthetic 75-110?
 

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You could change the rear cover to one that has a drain plug OR do what I did on my old 9.25 rear.
When I changed the gear oil (with the cover off), I drilled and tapped (for a 1/8" or 1/4" pipe plug) a small hole in the bottom of the rearend and put a pipe plug in it.
After that a gear lube change involved, removing the fill plug and the new drain pipe plug, let drain, reinstall pipe plug with thread sealant, fill to the level of the fill plug - done.

I would go with either Redline or Amsoil 75-110, I personally have used both brands but prefer Redline.
There are others that will work like Mobil 1, I have had Redline work where Mobil 1 failed - but it wasn't in a car :)
 

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When I asked about 75-140 the shop owner said that Ford quit using it a few years back, so did he.



All the more reason to stick with it :gy:


75W140 and 75W110 will both flow better cold than 80W-90 and protect better when hot. 80W90 is light, the Allison transmissions in our class 8s use it as trans fluid



The newer 9.25s have a drain plug, it is not on the rear cover, it is on the passenger's side on the chunk. I am not sure when it was added but I thought it was 2011 when they went to ZF for the axle supplier
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I will check for the drain plug on the passenger's side. As for drilling the hole, I'll probably pass. The truck is already 6 yrs old and for those few diff oil changes (before I get a new truck) I should manage with a pump. Perhaps there is an electric pump available that would be suitable for the job?
Anyways - that you guys for your input.
Cheers
 

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Let us know if the plug is there, it is a really nice feature they added.


Can you get to the bottom of the housing with a pump? I never tried that.
 
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