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Discussion Starter #1
I'm adding an alarm system and power locks/trunk release to my truck (and eventually electric windows).
The only wires I'll be extending are for the power locks and the trunk release (all other wires are accessible with the stock looms that came with the alarm).

What gauge wire would you recommend for extending to the power locks?
What gauge will be safe without being over the top?

Also what connectors would you recommend I use? Or should I solder and shrink wrap/tape instead? Baring in mind I will be cutting into some of the bigger wires (ignition 12V supply, starter motor feed etc).
If connectors; then what are the best most reliable kind that won't shake apart or come loose and short with vibration??
 

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Depending on how good you are at soldering, it's the most reliable, however if you're skills are like mine (can do it but it ain't pretty) then some heat shrinkable butt connectors with a proper crimping tool is the best bet. If you want to be able to disconnect it (not sure why you would) but then I'd recommend Bullet connectors, spades aren't as good I've found.

Stick with the same guage wire that you'll be connecting into, but aside from the battery/atl supply I believe the largest guage we have is 14ga, someone correct me if I'm wrong though; most of the wiring is all 22ga through out the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Depending on how good you are at soldering, it's the most reliable, however if you're skills are like mine (can do it but it ain't pretty) then some heat shrinkable butt connectors with a proper crimping tool is the best bet. If you want to be able to disconnect it (not sure why you would) but then I'd recommend Bullet connectors, spades aren't as good I've found.

Stick with the same guage wire that you'll be connecting into, but aside from the battery/atl supply I believe the largest guage we have is 14ga, someone correct me if I'm wrong though; most of the wiring is all 22ga through out the truck.
Thanks cdn, and yea I can solder but it ain't pretty lol
Ok, I looked them up and know what butt connectors are now lol

Do you know what gauge butt connectors I'd need for the ignition loom wires?

And yep, I shouldn't have to disconnect them at any time and if I do I'd rather have to cut a re fix than risk them slipping, shorting and burning my truck down lol

Thanks.
 

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18 gauge wire is what is generally used for the door lock actuators. Soldering and heat shrink are the best way to go. Soldering is easy. Just remember you're using the iron to heat the components to be soldered, not the solder itself. I usually put the iron under the wires to be soldered and when the wires are hot enough, dab the solder on from the top. After a couple of tries, you'll get the hang of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
18 gauge wire is what is generally used for the door lock actuators. Soldering and heat shrink are the best way to go. Soldering is easy. Just remember you're using the iron to heat the components to be soldered, not the solder itself. I usually put the iron under the wires to be soldered and when the wires are hot enough, dab the solder on from the top. After a couple of tries, you'll get the hang of it.
My concern with the heatshrinks is burning something up under the dash while I'm under there lol Any advice (other than 'dont burn anything' lol). What do you use to shrink? The iron itself? or a mini burner?
 

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I use a heat gun from Harbor Freight that I picked up for $10.
I am no good at soldering either, but going to learn alot here shortly with all the leds I am getting. Course probably doesn't help that I ruined my iron by using to to fix my bumper and old grill, melted the cracks and breaks together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After market alarm question

So, I'm installing an after market alarm into my truck. It has no alarm/immobilizer system from the factory.

The system allows me to wire into the 'ignition on' switch so that when I turn the ignition on, the doors (after market locks, not oem) lock and when I turn the alarm off they unlock.

I was wondering if, instead of wiring into the ignition I could wire into the neutral safety switch?(assuming it's electric and not mechanical) so that instead of working with 'ignition on', the locks lock when I take the car out of neutral and unlock when it goes back into neutral.
My wife's Saturn has this feature and I think I'd prefer it to the ignition on locking.

Any ideas anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't see any reason you couldn't. I say try it and see if it works.
Actually there is lol I just found out.
Basically the feature isn't wired uniquely into the ignition wire. The alarm system as a whole is wired into the ignition and HAS to be. The lock feature is an internal feature of the alarm and I can't wire the whole alarm into the neutral switch.
if there was a separate and unique wire for the 'lock' feature, I could - but there isn't, so that idea is out of the window lol
 
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