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Hey guys. Anyone know where to get and/or download a wiring diagram for the trailer light package. I do not have left brake or left signal working. I have a 2003 Ram 1500 Quad cab 4x4.
thanks guys
Mike
 

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How did it go?

Hey guys. Anyone know where to get and/or download a wiring diagram for the trailer light package. I do not have left brake or left signal working. I have a 2003 Ram 1500 Quad cab 4x4.
thanks guys
Mike
Hey Mike did you ever come up with the solution? I am having the same problem with the same truck. I think it might be the relay but not sure which one it is. Any advice would be appreciated.
Anthony
 

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Hey Mike did you ever come up with the solution? I am having the same problem with the same truck. I think it might be the relay but not sure which one it is. Any advice would be appreciated.
Anthony
Not likely, but not impossible, that it's the relay. I'd be looking more at the fuse and the wiring at the trailer connector.

Fuse or relay, look in the TIPM cover, and there is a map of the fuses and relays.
 

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2003 Ram 1500

I am having this Problem too, the brake and signals for right/left are not working at the incoming wires to the trailer connector, I went and tested for signal/brake on the Yellow-pink and White-pink lines further back from the taillight split offs in the wire bundle. The taillights work fine at the trailer connector.

Fuse 46 and 47 have constant power to them when the hazards are on so can I assume the relay is bad (but no power to the yellow and white pink wires at the back) This truck has never previously had a trailer hooked up to it. But how do I tell if the relays are working or not that the fuse 46/47 go to?
I just put the big Reese hitch on it.

Which Relay on the IPM controls these left/right lines? Or are these internal relays in the Front Control Module?

I also have a brand new C1 connector (the 15pin on the IPM) to put in as a couple wires were corroded badly.) This too could be the problem.
 

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2003 Ram 1500

I am having this Problem too, the brake and signals for right/left are not working at the incoming wires to the trailer connector, I went and tested for signal/brake on the Yellow-pink and White-pink lines further back from the taillight split offs in the wire bundle. The taillights work fine at the trailer connector.

Fuse 46 and 47 have constant power to them when the hazards are on so can I assume the relay is bad (but no power to the yellow and white pink wires at the back) This truck has never previously had a trailer hooked up to it. But how do I tell if the relays are working or not that the fuse 46/47 go to?
I just put the big Reese hitch on it.

Which Relay on the IPM controls these left/right lines? Or are these internal relays in the Front Control Module?

I also have a brand new C1 connector (the 15pin on the IPM) to put in as a couple wires were corroded badly.) This too could be the problem.
First I should correct my earlier reference to TIPM. In your model year, that did not exist, but rather there is an IPM and a FCM.

I would expect the cover for the IPM to have a legend that shows which relays are for the turn signals. Another potential source for this legend is the owners manual. The trailer light relays are triggered by the FCM in your truck, so if a relay is not working, it could be the relay, but could also be the lack of signal from the FCM. If you do not operation of either turn signal on the trailer, I would be inclined to blame the FCM, as it is unlikely that both relays would fail at the same time.

If you can locate the correct relay(s), you can test for signal from the FCM. First remove the suspect relay, then using a volt meter, connect the negative lead to relay socket 86, and the positive lead to relay socket 85. This should show 12V pulsing at the same rate as the signal lights flash. NOTE - I do not recommend using a test light for this test. I do NOT know what electronics the FCM uses to trigger the relay, but can assume it is a low current ground switch (ie open collector, etc), and testing with a device that exceeds it's rated current WILL damage it fatally! A proper voltmeter is a 'current safe' test. If you are not 100% familiar with using a voltmeter, then testing of the FCM should be left for a trained technician.

As for the C1 connector, I do not know which connector ties the FCM to the IPM. If it is C1, then bad or corroded connections here, could yield the results you are noticing.
 

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So the FCM is the computer controller for the IPM found that out.

I have read over 30 posts on all kinds of forums about the IPM and FCM ****ing up so badly that they have to replace both at a whopping $400-$700. I can't believe Chrysler got away with not recalling these parts. What ******* engineer puts a fuse box/computer under the hood completely exposed to weather and shit like this fusebox. Epic fail on Chrysler's part, good thing this isn't my truck and these issues have turned me 100% off of buying a new dodge ram.
 

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Anyone have a part number for the IPM and FCM 2003 Ram 1500 2wd 4.7 L auto w/ trailer wiring.

Or Can I just buy one of the aftermarket $50 controllers with the internal fuse/relay controls and run them right off of the rear tail lights?
 

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So the FCM is the computer controller for the IPM found that out.

I have read over 30 posts on all kinds of forums about the IPM and FCM ****ing up so badly that they have to replace both at a whopping $400-$700. I can't believe Chrysler got away with not recalling these parts. What ******* engineer puts a fuse box/computer under the hood completely exposed to weather and shit like this fusebox. Epic fail on Chrysler's part, good thing this isn't my truck and these issues have turned me 100% off of buying a new dodge ram.
Sorry to hear that this issue has you this upset with Dodge. Before you deprive yourself of enjoying one of the best new trucks available, the Generation 4 Ram, I will encourage you look deeper into the wiring and systems of the other available truck options. I think you will find that the current times have influenced all the manufactures into similar systems......Hi-tech, difficult to DIY service, head scratching about the way/where things are done/located, etc. The big difference with the Dodge can only be realized by direct comparison, so go take your 'optional choice' for a test drive....to the Dodge dealer, and park it beside the Ram....then take the Ram for a spin.....then take the option back to the other dealer. If you still aren't convinced the Dodge is the better choice, then you are better off purchasing the option. After all, you are the only one that has to happy with your purchase decision....just don't let an issue with a module that no longer exists, influence you into making a long term decision that you end up regretting.

Anyone have a part number for the IPM and FCM 2003 Ram 1500 2wd 4.7 L auto w/ trailer wiring.

Or Can I just buy one of the aftermarket $50 controllers with the internal fuse/relay controls and run them right off of the rear tail lights?
I don't see any reason why not, especially if you get one that is made specifically for that year/model. Check with the well known manufactures like Reese and Hoppy!

BTW - This has gone beyond the scope of the Newbie Checkin thread concept. If you have additional questions on this, can I ask that you start a new thread in the 'Help Zone'. It's about 1/2 way down the main page.
 

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Thanks for all the follow up info folks. I am still trying to find the location of the relay. I am going back out there in awile. I traced the problem from the trailer plug all the way forward to the harness behind the left front tire. So I am convinced that it is indeed a relay as the right side lights work. I will post some pics of the gremlins when i kill them.
Anthony
 

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So the FCM is the computer controller for the IPM found that out.

I have read over 30 posts on all kinds of forums about the IPM and FCM ****ing up so badly that they have to replace both at a whopping $400-$700. I can't believe Chrysler got away with not recalling these parts. What ******* engineer puts a fuse box/computer under the hood completely exposed to weather and shit like this fusebox. Epic fail on Chrysler's part, good thing this isn't my truck and these issues have turned me 100% off of buying a new dodge ram.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the same kind of engineer that works for Chevy, Ford, Toyota, Nissan and pretty much every other auto maker. By the time the '06 model went into production the problem was handled and Chrysler when from PCI to CAN bus network architecture as well.
 

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Yes, I agree the new CAN system is great. I bought an 09 Caliber, not a bad car at all love driving it.

But I don't understand how from 2002-2006 maybe even earlier there was no recall on these badly flawed electrical systems and no compensation given. (In some cases as early as 40,000 Miles. If you look at the shit with Toyota/ Lexus electrical failures they have recalled all of their bad crap.

I have read of instances where the IPM has corroded so bad wires start falling off and crazy things happen to the vehicle, like my instance with the Ignition wire you helped me find on the C1 connector. If I had of taken that to the dealer here it would have cost and easy $500 in labour and $700-800 in parts.
 

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Right trailer turn signal has no power from the IPM

I've got the same problem. In my case the right trailer turn signal only, ( no power ). I also traced it back to splice # 327. That's where the trailer tow connector branches off to the add on trailer connector. No power to the WT/PK wire coming from connector #217, ( mid frame ). I can think of only 2 possibilities. Either the relay itself, or Connector C-1 . Does anyone know where C-1 is located ??
I have a suspect the relay in question might be an integral part of the integrated power module. If that's the case.. Big bucks and I'm not sure I want to DIY....Anyone got an idea ?
 

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Are you sure about Splice 327 ?? From the information I have, it feeds park light power. Should have Black/orange wiring.... :4-dontknow:

Right turn is the WT/PK wire and should go to S330, then to C217 pin13. From there is runs on the same wire color to C1-pin5 on bottom of the IPM. I the IPM it is tied to pin87 of the 'Trailer Tow Right Turn Relay', which gets feed power on pin30 from Fuse47 (15amp). The trigger for the relay comes from the FCM pin34 (Sorry, no wire color here). If the FCM is the issue, I would not be a bit surprised. To test the FCM at this point, pin34 should have +12V when idle, and 0V (gnd) when asking the light to flash.

Connector C1 is the end one (closest to the battery) in the line of 4 connectors (C1, C3, C5, C7) C7 is the one under the protruded part of the IPM. Don't be surprised if the connectors are labeled A through G. In that case, C1 = A.

Hope this helps. :)
 

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The growing issue with Ram's IPM

I've got a Ram headache. I was about to pull out with the travel trailer when I found a faulty, (trailer), right turn signal. This is usually just a simple matter of the trailer plug's connection or maybe a bulb. It's now 2 days later and it aint' simple. The problem is deep in truck's components.
Instead of exposed relays to control the turn signals,,,, the relay is an Integral part of the Integral Power Module. This module,,,I find out,,, is one expensive piece of better idea. So far, it looks like $500 MIGHT be enough. Not a DIY either....
In my case, the trailer's right turn relay is defective. The right turn relay isn't replaceable. The entire module must be replaced.. Incidentally, after reading a good number of forums describing turn signal problems, I realized they are likely all from this module.. Beware.
In the morning, I'm going to try just running a jumper from the right rear truck signal to the trailer. For this I spent $26000...
 

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Your right

Hey brad12kx,

Your right about #327 splice. I just looked quickly at my location drawing ( fig.49 ) if you have the manual. I used a tester up to about that splice.. WT/PK is the right color for trailer right signal.. C-1 connector could be corroded, but I have my doubts. By the way,, fuses 46 and 47 are good.. ( Right and left trailer tow )
I'm going to try a jumper from the truck's signal to pin number 2 on the add on trailer connector.. I just hope I don't overload the truck's signal relay.. It will either blow the relay, operate improperly, or it might work.. What have I got to loose ?
Thanks for the response.
 
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