[duneop]

Hello. Was told this is the right place for this?

Does anyone know the proper way to flash / recalibrate an ABS module using witech? Is there a sequence or something? Like flash the ECU and then immediately start ABS initiation? Asking because I did a battery
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pull and then all my ABS light came on at about 10 miles an hour. Speedo was off by 10 to 15 miles an hour. Figured it just needed to be flashed. Took it to the dealer. They flashed it but It didn't help. They put a new module in and flashed that one. Same thing. wheel sensors good, all connectors good and line noise / resistance is good. Codes come back as left rear wheel inconceivable data, right rear wheel inconceivable data and ABS module inconceivable data. When tracking with a starscan front wheels are tracking same speed and rear wheels are same speed just the rear wheels are together 15 miles slower. I figure they're just flashing it wrong or if anyone else knows a way to program pinion settings that don't involve the witech for a 2009 Dodge Ram?

 

[BigRig]

Is your tire size set correctly? There's an option to set different front and rear tire sizes but I've never tried it on a truck and I'm not sure if it will even accept the change. Perhaps have your dealer reset your tire size and test drive again to see if the wheel speeds match. You can also change pinion ratios but again, I've never tried that either. If you have a tuner or a decent scanner you might be able to do some of this without going to your dealer. Not a sales pitch at all, but I have the auto enginuity scan tool and for the price, it's awesome and has saved me a few times.

 

[duneop]

Can't change

So even if I could program in the front tire size that would be different from the rear it would be gone the moment the battery was pulled again. programming the tire size, rear differential and pinion is good. But as soon as you take the battery out it goes right back to spedometer out by 20 km an hour and abs lights on immediately as soon as you hit 10 miles an hour. It can't retain the programming it has when the power is removed.

 

[GTyankee]

How much have you driven the vehicle since the last disconnect

Why do you keep disconnecting the battery ?
Each time that you disconnect the battery, you are causing a computer reset & you don't let the computer do a self check unless you complete what is called a Drive Cycle

http://www.obdautodoctor.com/scantool-garage/obd-readiness-monitors-explained/

I don't know if a Drive Cycle completion will correct your ABS issue, but you can try it

If it doesn't take the vehicle to a Brake Shop, they have more information than the dealership will ever have

 

[duneop]

Battery

The vehicle has been driven for up to a week in between battery disconnects. It's done highway and city driving. The reason I disconnected the battery today was researching the modules today I learned how the modules communicated. I wanted to not just visually inspect all the fuses but I resistance checked them all with a multimeter just in case. I disconnected the battery while I checked all the fuses. Originally I changed the battery because the one in the truck was dead after 7 1/2 years of loyal service. It's not a system learning thing. The scan tool shows that the rear tires are 15mph slower than the front tires. That's after a witech flash / reprogram / rediscovery. If I program in the correct rear differential, tired, pinion ratio with the starscan then the rear wheels are corrected. The speedometer is corrected. The ABS doesn't come on until I reach a speed of about 25 or 30 mph. When tracking wheel speed on the starscan after programming in the diff etc it shows the rear is correct and now the front tires are out of spec. A battery disconnect erases whatever the starscan had done. It's super weird.

 

[duneop]

Okay so here's the scoop. My battery of 7 1/2 years finally died the other week. I went and got another battery and put it in the tuck. Started up fine, at about 10mph all the ABS lights came on. I took it to the dealer. $989 dollars later they told me that Dodge engineering had come back and said my truck thinks it has a diesel transmission in it. It's funny because my truck is an 09 and was not even manufactured when Dodge had a diesel option. They said that the only way this could happen is if I hooked up a Dodge diesel TIPM to my truck (Which is ridiculous and obviously I did not). They said the only way to fix the issue was to buy a new TIPM and instrument cluster at a cost of around $2500 + labour. If nobody on here has a solution for either reprogramming my truck to think that it's a 1500 Larime 5.7L instead of a Liberty or an eco diesel then after 20 plus years as a Dodge enthusiast I'm sorry to say I'll be done with the brand. I'm used to normal maintenance and I'm not new to regular problems but being told I'm into it for now $3500 plus labour to replace a battery ($240 for the battery not included) is ludicrous. If anyone has an 2009 Ram for the love of God do not replace the battery!!! Anyone have any ideas how to tell my Ram it has a Ram transmission instead of the eco diesel or Liberty transmission it now thinks it has without buying a new Ram?

Thanks. :-(