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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had bought a dodge 1987 D 100 5.2l v8 T on the bin and can I say lugged it's way home someone tore up the vacuum system pulled a hose here Connection there messed with the carb. But she home anyway worked on it for about 2 days anyway I can go with the vacuum add. And do away with the spark advance. Got it running better just need a diagram of the poper vacuum system to get her right for now
 

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If you're getting rid of the spark advance computer, you'll need a slightly earlier Mopar distributor with vacuum advance that connects to the carb. It also means you'll need a slightly earlier ignition controller. You can collect one from a donor truck. Pretty easy to figure out just looking at it before you rip it out and take home. There are aftermarket systems, but an OEM from a donor is the least costly. As for vacuum lines, cap or plug everything. All you really need is the ported vacuum line for the distributor advance, the brake booster line, the pcv and air cleaner to valve cover breather cap. Now somewhere in that mess is a line to control the environmental HVAC air doors and stuff, but they aren't necessary to get it running. There are also YouTube videos on Lean Burn Conversion, which is the same process as eliminating the spark advance system, they just stopped calling it lean burn and updated it in later models.
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/leadfoot/leanburn.htm
http://wawii.com/m37/manuals/MoPar%20Electronic%20Ignition%20-%20elecignconv.pdf
Oh, and a different carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now this monster is overheating not bad but at the 200 mark. The woman that had this truck really neglected it bad. Plus I think my ECM bad Did the key for the codes and no lights sounds just a seatbelt light steady. Any other tricks for checking codes. And ty for replying
 

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OK today was an interesting day with this dodge so far did a full time up all came from dealership so I was thinking why do I not have a o2 sensor.
Do I add one? Then I took the entire exhaust system off and put on a flowmaster triple flow muffler headers by hooker and dual exhaust now I have 2 the power but I have done some reading and a very interesting talk with a dodge tech that did the search for me for vacuum diagriaham .well he showed up today with a very nice set of 340 heads shaved to fit the 318 OK he said for me to get a few parts and gave me a typed list of things that would make it a pretty let's say it would go let a raped ape was his words he said stay with carburetor and I could get 11 miles per gallon unless I step on it.well was listening to the exhaust and behave a choice to make all out our everything but exhaust original engine but the parts for original are getting hard to find and there just as expensive as aftermarket.
 

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If you're sure you did the key code trick properly, and didn't even get a 55 (end of sequence) code, yeah, the computer is shot.
 

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Wait, an '87? You're not gonna have codes anyway. You should still have a carburetor, and that means no computer to extract codes from in the first place.
 

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At 200K it's a good idea to do a rebuild. Even with good compression, the bearings are bound to be worn. You do not need an O2 sensor for a traditional carb/vacuum advance system. Shaved 340 heads are a bad idea on a 318 in a truck. Yeah, once it gets up around 3,000rpm it'll get on top of the cam and those 340 heads WILL make it take off, but it'll wallow like a sick pig off the line, and you have to consider weight and gearing, plus what speeds you'll be running biggest part of the time. You can manage better than 11mpg while having a happier, more agreeable engine that, while making less PEAK power, will have more usable power. As for the pic, I'm gonna look that up to see exactly what i is. I never bothered with it. I immediately isolated it from the system with vacuum caps, etc whenever I had one to deal with.
 

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Keep in mind that your overheating is probably due to the free-breathing exhaust system. The low restriction can cause the carb to run lean (especially a non-adjustable 2V emission-era system like yours--already tuned to the lean side with a quiet restrictive exhuast), and that'll push exhaust temps up, which puts more heat into a tired system (thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, water pump). So, adding even a tunable 2V carb would solve that issue, naturally a 4V carb will as well. Also, how much were those 340 heads shaved? Goint too far will push compression ratio too high, and at minimum, will require higher octane fuel you may not be interested in paying for.....at 11mpg.... What are the cam specs you're looking at adding cuz the stock cam is miserably small, especially when you're looking at using those big port heads.
 

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Thinking that pic is of an emissions-related device, either carb bowl vent timer/controller, or EGR timer/controller. Anyway, it's one of the first things I get rid of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Keep in mind that your overheating is probably due to the free-breathing exhaust system. The low restriction can cause the carb to run lean (especially a non-adjustable 2V emission-era system like yours--already tuned to the lean side with a quiet restrictive exhuast), and that'll push exhaust temps up, which puts more heat into a tired system (thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, water pump). So, adding even a tunable 2V carb would solve that issue, naturally a 4V carb will as well. Also, how much were those 340 heads shaved? Goint too far will push compression ratio too high, and at minimum, will require higher octane fuel you may not be interested in paying for.....at 11mpg.... What are the cam specs you're looking at adding cuz the stock cam is miserably small, especially when you're looking at using those big port heads.
Thinking that pic is of an emissions-related device, either carb bowl vent timer/controller, or EGR timer/controller. Anyway, it's one of the first things I get rid of.
yeah fixed those issues and getting 18 mpg. Now with plenty of power just want more speed
 

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The stock cam can't even make max use of stock 318LA heads. If you seriously want a solid foundation, you need a better cam. You can then customize your power based on the cam. Killer low and mid-range with 318LA heads, or tear your head off above 3,000rpm thru 6,000.
 
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