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  #1  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:58 PM
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Default 2011 1500 SLT 4 X 4 Lift

I have had my Ram for just about a month. I'd like to put a lift kit on my truck but I'm finding conflicting information regarding wheel/rim size.

Like the title says, my truck is an 2011 SLT 4X4, it came with 17" aluminum wheels with 265/70/17 tires. I was interested in something like a 4" lift possibly and would purchase tires later, but I wanted to keep my stock 17" wheels to save some money, not to mention I kinda like the stock aluminum wheel look.

I've read from various sources that a 18" wheel is required? Is that true or not? Can someone point me to a good quality lift kit that will enable me to use my 17" STOCK wheels? I've searched but it seems most people have the 20's on their trucks or have purchase wheels and tires and lift their trucks after the fact.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:12 AM
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I've also seen that some are using the 5100's to get 2.5" or so. I had a set on my 2010 Tacoma. Could these be used with my stock wheels? I realize I wouldn't get as much lift.
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:31 AM
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The issue here isn't the size of the rims; it's the offset (or the backspacing) of the rims.
With the stock rims, the backspacing is around 5.5 or so? I'm not sure; it's something like that.
But the point is, if you lift your truck, you'll want bigger tires. Bigger tires need more room. With that backspacing, said bigger tires will rub on the suspension components.
With a 4" lift, you could fit 35" tires. However, you would either need new rims with around -12mm offset or so (which is roughly 4.5" backspacing), or you would need wheel spacers to get the tires away from the suspension components.
Most people don't like wheel spacers, and for good reason. They can really start to mess things up if they're too big, not on right, etc. If you stay smaller than a 1/2" spacer, you should be fine, but still.

As for kits, there are many good kits. BDS, Fabtech, Zone, the list goes on.
If you are still thinking about the 4" lift, I (and many others) would recommend just going to the 6" lift.
There isn't much of a price difference, and bigger is always better especially if you want to go bigger in the future.

If you wanted to do the 5100s, that's a good option. You could put a little bit bigger tires on your truck, probably without even wheel spacers, with little to no rubbing.


I just realized I didn't really explain offset:
Offset is how the wheels sit on the truck. Negative offsets will push the wheels out from the truck and give you more room. Positive offsets will pull the wheels in closer to the truck, and give you less room.
That's why the stock rims don't really work well with bigger tires. Those tires need more room, and the stock rims have a positive offset, so when you turn the wheel, the tire starts rubbing on stuff.
With a wheel with a negative offset, the rim will be farther out, and the tire will have more room inside the wheel well.
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Last edited by dodgeguy; 04-27-2011 at 12:36 AM. Reason: explaining more
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgeguy View Post
The issue here isn't the size of the rims; it's the offset (or the backspacing) of the rims.
With the stock rims, the backspacing is around 5.5 or so? I'm not sure; it's something like that.
But the point is, if you lift your truck, you'll want bigger tires. Bigger tires need more room. With that backspacing, said bigger tires will rub on the suspension components.
With a 4" lift, you could fit 35" tires. However, you would either need new rims with around -12mm offset or so (which is roughly 4.5" backspacing), or you would need wheel spacers to get the tires away from the suspension components.
Most people don't like wheel spacers, and for good reason. They can really start to mess things up if they're too big, not on right, etc. If you stay smaller than a 1/2" spacer, you should be fine, but still.

As for kits, there are many good kits. BDS, Fabtech, Zone, the list goes on.
If you are still thinking about the 4" lift, I (and many others) would recommend just going to the 6" lift.
There isn't much of a price difference, and bigger is always better especially if you want to go bigger in the future.

If you wanted to do the 5100s, that's a good option. You could put a little bit bigger tires on your truck, probably without even wheel spacers, with little to no rubbing.
I was initially looking at the 5100s, I was concerned with a few different issues that may not be issues at all; issues I encountered with the Tacoma.

CV angles and alignment specs to be specific. With the Tacoma, the 5100s caused an excessive angle on the CV's and cause vibrations; also, at the max setting of 2.5", the alignment was barely in spec and the truck drove like crap. It was all over the road because of the Caster/Camber I believe.

I would go with a 6" lift, got no problems with the relative cost of the kit, it's the Rims/Tires that I have the issue with. I would be looking at a good 4K or 5K to put a 6" lift with Rims/Tires. That's just a little more than I'd like to spend right now, I can afford it, but I don't know if I can justify it to myself. I was hoping to maybe do a 4" or so, leave stock wheels and tires for a while, then just upgrade the tires in a few months. Not go crazy big or wide, I would rather not reduce my rear gearing too much if at all. I have 3.55's and don't want to loose to much of my low end take off acceleration or pulling power.
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:51 AM
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With what your are saying it sounds like you may want to lean towards a 2.5 kit and add like 1.5 in the rear. It will be relatively cheap and you could run stock wheels and tires. I know a few 4+ lift kits do say they require minimum 18 inch wheels, the Mopar/Superlift for example. I put a 2.5/1.5 on after looking at a few option (fitting in the garage being the deciding factor lol) and have been very happy with the look and performance. It's not as sweet as a 4 or 6 inch lift with 35's, but it still looks big and is functional for day to day driving.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:02 AM
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You could do the 4", but it's going to look kinda funny with the stock tires on there until you can get bigger ones.
If that won't bother you, then go for it.

But you still have the problem of either getting wheel spacers or new rims. (And the wheel spacers might not even do it)
I'm sorry, I know it sounds like I'm trying to sell you rims here, but I just want to impress on you that it can start to get real expensive real quick no matter how hard you try otherwise. Haha I guess you already know that.

But anyways, with the 4" lift, you can still fit 35"s. With the 3.55 gearing, it might feel rather sluggish, so you might want to go up to 3.92s if you still want the power.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:33 AM
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Maybe I'll look into the 5100s a bit more and just level out the front end with the rear for now. Thanks for the information guys.
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:36 PM
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Ok the guys in here are right on everything.Ok if you go with a 4" lift it will run you between 1300.00- 1800.00 depending on what brand you want.A 6" will run you between 1400-2000.00.Not much difference there is it? Going from a 4" lift to a 6" is about 200.00 give or take.

As far as the Bilsteins, I have a 6" BDS lift with the 5100's maxed out.I have very little vibration only in 4wd when taking off then it goes away.

You can leave your 17's on your truck but you saying you want to go with a lift and leave the stock tires on there for a while.I am here to tell you (It will drive you NUTS).Do yourself a favor save your money get a 4 or 6 inch lift and get you some meet on your rims.I would say get new rims too because I would not use wheel spacers at all.

I hope this helps.


I have a 2010 Ram 1500 SLT btw.
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:05 PM
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Ok, so I have done some calling around for prices and such, got some information I'd like you guys to BS check....

Called a local off road shop, came pretty highly reco'd, the fellow told me most around my area looking for level and slight lift are using a 2" spacer kit for front and rear, fits on top of strut assembly in front and on top of springs in rear. He claims that it maintains factory like ride, etc. I questioned whether a spacer on top would stress ball joints or limit shock travel, he says no. Kit is $130 (BDS, Readylift, etc) plus $300 for installation which includes alignment. I then questioned 5100s, he told me that would affect stock ride and the angles of cv, etc. Shouldn't that be the other way around?

I need some good advice hear guys, I'm completely newbie on this issue, and I don't want another Tacoma vibration/alignment nightmare (aka, \\ // looking wheels when you look at the truck from the front, and squirrelly driving)...I've seen more people talk about loving the 5100s, I found some, 413.30 plus 19.99 shipped, get them in 3 days.....

He also said, for tires, I could use like a 33" tire (285 or 305 I think he said on 17" wheels).....

I appreciate all the input so far....thanks in advance for the BS check....
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:58 PM
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I still say go with the 5100's. Can we see a pic of your cv's the way they are right now?
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