I've also seen that some are using the 5100's to get 2.5" or so. I had a set on my 2010 Tacoma. Could these be used with my stock wheels? I realize I wouldn't get as much lift.

 

The issue here isn't the size of the rims; it's the offset (or the backspacing) of the rims.
With the stock rims, the backspacing is around 5.5 or so? I'm not sure; it's something like that.
But the point is, if you lift your truck, you'll want bigger tires. Bigger tires need more room. With that backspacing, said bigger tires will rub on the suspension components.
With a 4" lift, you could fit 35" tires. However, you would either need new rims with around -12mm offset or so (which is roughly 4.5" backspacing), or you would need wheel spacers to get the tires away from the suspension components.
Most people don't like wheel spacers, and for good reason. They can really start to mess things up if they're too big, not on right, etc. If you stay smaller than a 1/2" spacer, you should be fine, but still.

As for kits, there are many good kits. BDS, Fabtech, Zone, the list goes on.
If you are still thinking about the 4" lift, I (and many others) would recommend just going to the 6" lift.
There isn't much of a price difference, and bigger is always better :smileup: especially if you want to go bigger in the future.

If you wanted to do the 5100s, that's a good option. You could put a little bit bigger tires on your truck, probably without even wheel spacers, with little to no rubbing.


I just realized I didn't really explain offset:
Offset is how the wheels sit on the truck. Negative offsets will push the wheels out from the truck and give you more room. Positive offsets will pull the wheels in closer to the truck, and give you less room.
That's why the stock rims don't really work well with bigger tires. Those tires need more room, and the stock rims have a positive offset, so when you turn the wheel, the tire starts rubbing on stuff.
With a wheel with a negative offset, the rim will be farther out, and the tire will have more room inside the wheel well.

 

The issue here isn't the size of the rims; it's the offset (or the backspacing) of the rims.
With the stock rims, the backspacing is around 5.5 or so? I'm not sure; it's something like that.
But the point is, if you lift your truck, you'll want bigger tires. Bigger tires need more room. With that backspacing, said bigger tires will rub on the suspension components.
With a 4" lift, you could fit 35" tires. However, you would either need new rims with around -12mm offset or so (which is roughly 4.5" backspacing), or you would need wheel spacers to get the tires away from the suspension components.
Most people don't like wheel spacers, and for good reason. They can really start to mess things up if they're too big, not on right, etc. If you stay smaller than a 1/2" spacer, you should be fine, but still.

As for kits, there are many good kits. BDS, Fabtech, Zone, the list goes on.
If you are still thinking about the 4" lift, I (and many others) would recommend just going to the 6" lift.
There isn't much of a price difference, and bigger is always better :smileup: especially if you want to go bigger in the future.

If you wanted to do the 5100s, that's a good option. You could put a little bit bigger tires on your truck, probably without even wheel spacers, with little to no rubbing.

I was initially looking at the 5100s, I was concerned with a few different issues that may not be issues at all; issues I encountered with the Tacoma.

CV angles and alignment specs to be specific. With the Tacoma, the 5100s caused an excessive angle on the CV's and cause vibrations; also, at the max setting of 2.5", the alignment was barely in spec and the truck drove like crap. It was all over the road because of the Caster/Camber I believe.

I would go with a 6" lift, got no problems with the relative cost of the kit, it's the Rims/Tires that I have the issue with. I would be looking at a good 4K or 5K to put a 6" lift with Rims/Tires. That's just a little more than I'd like to spend right now, I can afford it, but I don't know if I can justify it to myself. I was hoping to maybe do a 4" or so, leave stock wheels and tires for a while, then just upgrade the tires in a few months. Not go crazy big or wide, I would rather not reduce my rear gearing too much if at all. I have 3.55's and don't want to loose to much of my low end take off acceleration or pulling power.

 

With what your are saying it sounds like you may want to lean towards a 2.5 kit and add like 1.5 in the rear. It will be relatively cheap and you could run stock wheels and tires. I know a few 4+ lift kits do say they require minimum 18 inch wheels, the Mopar/Superlift for example. I put a 2.5/1.5 on after looking at a few option (fitting in the garage being the deciding factor lol) and have been very happy with the look and performance. It's not as sweet as a 4 or 6 inch lift with 35's, but it still looks big and is functional for day to day driving.

 

You could do the 4", but it's going to look kinda funny with the stock tires on there until you can get bigger ones.
If that won't bother you, then go for it.

But you still have the problem of either getting wheel spacers or new rims. (And the wheel spacers might not even do it)
I'm sorry, I know it sounds like I'm trying to sell you rims here, but I just want to impress on you that it can start to get real expensive real quick no matter how hard you try otherwise. Haha I guess you already know that.

But anyways, with the 4" lift, you can still fit 35"s. With the 3.55 gearing, it might feel rather sluggish, so you might want to go up to 3.92s if you still want the power.

 

Maybe I'll look into the 5100s a bit more and just level out the front end with the rear for now. Thanks for the information guys.

 

Ok the guys in here are right on everything.Ok if you go with a 4" lift it will run you between 1300.00- 1800.00 depending on what brand you want.A 6" will run you between 1400-2000.00.Not much difference there is it? Going from a 4" lift to a 6" is about 200.00 give or take.

As far as the Bilsteins, I have a 6" BDS lift with the 5100's maxed out.I have very little vibration only in 4wd when taking off then it goes away.

You can leave your 17's on your truck but you saying you want to go with a lift and leave the stock tires on there for a while.I am here to tell you (It will drive you NUTS).Do yourself a favor save your money get a 4 or 6 inch lift and get you some meet on your rims.I would say get new rims too because I would not use wheel spacers at all.

I hope this helps. :smileup:


I have a 2010 Ram 1500 SLT btw.

 

Ok, so I have done some calling around for prices and such, got some information I'd like you guys to BS check....

Called a local off road shop, came pretty highly reco'd, the fellow told me most around my area looking for level and slight lift are using a 2" spacer kit for front and rear, fits on top of strut assembly in front and on top of springs in rear. He claims that it maintains factory like ride, etc. I questioned whether a spacer on top would stress ball joints or limit shock travel, he says no. Kit is $130 (BDS, Readylift, etc) plus $300 for installation which includes alignment. I then questioned 5100s, he told me that would affect stock ride and the angles of cv, etc. Shouldn't that be the other way around?

I need some good advice hear guys, I'm completely newbie on this issue, and I don't want another Tacoma vibration/alignment nightmare (aka, \\ // looking wheels when you look at the truck from the front, and squirrelly driving)...I've seen more people talk about loving the 5100s, I found some, 413.30 plus 19.99 shipped, get them in 3 days.....

He also said, for tires, I could use like a 33" tire (285 or 305 I think he said on 17" wheels).....

I appreciate all the input so far....thanks in advance for the BS check....

 

I still say go with the 5100's. Can we see a pic of your cv's the way they are right now?

 

It's completely stock, but sure, I'll try to get a pic up this afternoon or this evening. I was kinda thinking the same thing about the 5100s, especially since so many are running them....Still can't help but remember the bad taste from the previous install though, that's the reason for the wishy washy approach....It's hard to get past having the other truck like it was, just almost totally not able to be driven.

 

Most of everything that has been said is right on the money so far.
While rubbing is an issue with stock wheels its not really the reason certain lift kits say you need an 18"+ wheel. Some of the replacement spindles that come with lift kits are larger then factory and your 17" wheel will not clear them. When your ready to purchase the lift just do a little more research, maybe call the company's and see if their kit will work with a 17" wheel
Another option would be to find a 305/75/17 tire for your truck. 35" tire thats about 12" wide instead of 12.5"

When it comes to spacers vs. bilstiens in your situation I would go with the bilstiens. The guy is sort of right that the bilstiens will affect ride quality more then a spacer because it is a whole new strut and coil. Both put about the same forces on your front end, but from what I've heard bilstiens are a little more forgiving when it comes to the CV angles and such.
The reason I say go with bilstiens in your situation is when you get your lift kit in the long run you can still use them to level out the truck (8.5"/6" rear)

 

I know it is stock but all of our trucks set different.

 

Here are the picks of the current CV angles, sorry if quality is bad......tried my best.

 

Good enough.Get the 5100's.You will be fine.

 

Welp, I'll call around and get some quotes on installation, and see about ordering a set tomorrow.

Thanks for the help....Hopefully I'll have better luck with this install than the last....Keeping my fingers crossed....

 

Daystar, has a new kit out, its 2.5 front and back, it cost about $140.00, to buy and the same to install, just put it on my truck, looks very nice i think, and a 285 will go on with room to spear

 

5100's are ordered, appointment made for the 23rd (the first day I have free time to have them installed).....

I'll post before and after pics if anyone is interested.

 

Sounds great bro!! Can't wait to see the before and after!!

 

The front is currently at 35 3/4 and the rear 38 3/4 measured from flat carport slab to top of fender well, you think the 5100s at 2.8 (top setting) will be too much for the ball joints and cv's given the pictures I have posted earlier?

 

Just my 2 cents Check out Topguncustomz.com (yes it is spelled with a z) They have everything from 1.5 spacers to 6+ they can also fab to fit your truck. I have a post on here of my truck (although it is older) and has solid axle in front not IFS it has a 3in coil lift. Tires are 33in 285/75/16 11.5 wide rims are your basic black steel 4.5 back spacing NO RUB Tires and rims cost me $1200.00 the lift was $500.00 I installed it myself.

 

Thanks, but the 5100s are already paid for and on the way. I'm just looking for a level after doing a bunch of homework. I'll probably throw some 285's on for a while, then upgrade wheels and tires, later add a real lift, maybe a BDS 6" with the 5100's-something like BigHorn4Life has.

Thanks for the info though!

 

Got them installed early, installer called with a cancellation and said let's do it....without further delay...












5100s on all four corners, fronts set at top setting. She's sitting officially by measurement exactly 5/8" lower in the front than the rear when measured from flat surface to the top of the fender well.

 

Looks great! Rides good dont it?

 

Yes they do ride great! PM sent.

 

So after a day of riding, I've notice a clunking coming from the front of the truck..Not present before the 5100s, but present now.....Took it back today, I have an appointment on Tuesday, they are going to break down the strut assemblies and see what is going on....They did put it on the rack and check everything out, everything seems tighten properly (I was standing in the bay with the tech)....He believes it may be something to do with the torque specifications on the shock rod to the top of the assembly....But will need to break it down to be sure......Man, this has just turned into a nightmare....I've got nothing but bad luck with this truck so far.......Sad, really, I love it except for all the dang issues....Anybody with 5100s got any ideas....Is there supposed to be a rubber bushing or something at the top of the assembly? Did anyone who has them installed or did the installation themselves on a 2011 have any special installation trick they had to do? I'm desperately in need of some advice guys......

 

I will call chuxtrux in the morning and see what they think.I am sorry your going through this.I know it would drive me nuts.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate any help or suggestions you might be able to drum up. The guys at the shop were very apologetic and seem to want to make it right (I assume because they realize that is brand new and only started this after they installed the shocks). It's a off road shop and I know for a fact they've installed them before. They seemed pretty confident that they could correct the issue, hopefully between suggestions from your installer and them breaking them down again on Tuesday, we can get this settled....Man, I'm so down in the dumps now, it just sucks.......I wanted sooo bad to have this be the last truck I buy for a while....

 

Anytime bud I just hope wecan figure this out. Don"t give up yet bro.You will have that truck for years to come.As soon as I know something I will post it for ya.

 

Ok I called Chuxtrux and they said it sounds like your upper control arm is bottoming out. I asked what would fix it a lift? He said yes.If that is what it is. Hope this helps.

 

So that would mean you CAN'T set the 5100s to the top setting on ALL 2011s? I'll mention that to the guys on Tuesday, worst case I'll have them go ahead and drop it down one level on the notches and see what happens......Kinda sucks if that's the case.......Thanks for checking man....Crazy thing is that it happens on little bumps too, the techs at 4wp even made that point, I was in the truck with two of them when we went for a test drive.....Man this just sucks...

Just a another one, did your truck have a rubber piece at the top where the strut connects to the spring housing....Mine didn't have one on the stock setup.....I'm wondering if that is where the clunking is coming from.....

 

I want to say the top side had a rubber piece yes.