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545RFE trans service help/advice/tips!?

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16K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  CHVYKLR  
#1 ·
I am going to try to change my trans fluid (nearly 50k miles) on my truck this weekend, or at least soon....I know it's ATF +4 but don't know much about trans fluids like I do engine oils. I want to get a good fluid, would Royal Purple be better than what I'd get at the parts store like castrol gtx? Any suggestions? I want to get a good fluid. I assume I can get the gasket/filter kit at autozone....I heard there is a second filter also though, are they both accessible? Any help appreciated!:smiley_thumbs_up:
 
#2 ·
All fuilds are so close to eachother now there really isnt all that much of a difference between the premium brands. RP is a very good brand, and Im sure they make something for our trans's.


As far as filters I cant help ya
 
#3 ·
Thanks. I was curious as to whether or not there was a difference like synthetic or conventional like there is with engine oil....I really like royal purple, I use it in my bike and it is the best IMO, I like it better than the mobil and amsoil products I use. The problem is it's a little harder to find. I may try it, just would like to know what others use...
 
#5 ·
^thanks! I guess I'll just buy whatever is at autozone then if it doesn't really matter. Do you think the royal purple stuff would be better than what they have at autozone (castrol or maybe some other brands)? Or would it all basically be the same?
 
#6 ·
you know I've been wondering the same thing. I bought a huge mag hytec 68RFE pan for my trans about 3 months ago and I can't decide on what fluid I should buy. I'm not so sure RP would be worth the extra cost but there are lots of people who swear by it. I'm leaning towards buying the Castrol GTX+4 b/c it's approx half the cost.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I run Mobil1 Synthetic everything. I have 60k miles on my truckand have never had a transmission issue, except the one below which was my fault. I change my fluid every 20k miles, or once a year. I refuse to take any chances with a transmission in a chrysler product, after replacing 4 transmissions in 40k miles in my 2000 Ram 1500 4x4.

The trans service in the truck is easy. There is no gasket on the trans pan, it is RTV.

There are 2 filters, filter kit from AutoZone is 18.99 or something and will work fine, DO NOT pay the $98 for the kit from the dealer. One filter looks like a regular trans pan filter, the other looks like an oil filter. They both change fairly easy. DO NOT take the metal ring out of the trans hole where the pickup (flat) filter comes out. It is a metal ring with rubber attached to it. The new pan filter will have one on it. Take that off, and put it to the side. Stick the filter back in the hole it came out of, your seal should still be in place.

The first time I serviced my trans, I changed that ring seal, and did not get the filter seated in the seal completely. The filter fell part way down out of the tube, and the transmission lost all pressure. My truck was dead in the water. There is a torx head screw that holds the other end of the filter into the valvebody, but the end with the pipe that sticks into that seal does not have a screw and will fall down if you change that rubber/metal ring and do not get it seated correctly. As long as you do not damage the ring with a tool (LEAVE IT IN THE VALVE BODY AND DONT TOUCH IT!!!!) It will be reusable.

^The above lesson was a $255 trip to the dealership, at a time when cash was REALLY tight. Lesson learned. Please heed this advice.
 
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#8 ·
The first time I serviced my trans, I changed that ring seal, and did not get the filter seated in the seal completely. The filter fell part way down out of the tube, and the transmission lost all pressure. My truck was dead in the water. There is a torx head screw that holds the other end of the filter into the valvebody, but the end with the pipe that sticks into that seal does not have a screw and will fall down if you change that rubber/metal ring and do not get it seated correctly. As long as you do not damage the ring with a tool (LEAVE IT IN THE VALVE BODY AND DONT TOUCH IT!!!!) It will be reusable.

^The above lesson was a $255 trip to the dealership, at a time when cash was REALLY tight. Lesson learned. Please heed this advice.
This info right here about the seal is priceless. There have been tons of guys who have messed up the seal on the flat filter and it made their truck undriveable. Other than that, it is a straight forward process.
 
#12 ·
thanks guys, info is much appreciated! So no gasket, and two filters....should be fine.

What type of sealant specifically should I buy? I've used a few types for different applications but don't know if there is a specific type I should use for a gasket?

I'll figure out the fluid, prob go with the castrol at autozone. I use RP oil in my bike, it unbelievably made a difference in operating temperature, and I really think it is a better product, but I don't know how much difference it'll make as everyone basically says trans fluid is trans fluid.

Filters should be easy, I've done tons of services on gm vehicles, I assume it'll be similar. I also never changed that metal ring with the rubber lip on the gm's because of fear of breaking it....the only thing is I worry about the rubber lip not sealing properly....but I'm sure it's fine...thanks for the tip! Is the second filter also in the trans accessible once the pan is removed?
 
#13 ·
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#14 ·
thanks! I will be taking care of this next weekend. I wanted to do it this weekend but didn't get to it and still need to change oil and rotate tires today amongst all other things we are doing. I swear I could take the summer off and still not have enough time to get things checked off the list lol.
 
#15 ·
PCV Valve (u asked in your PM) is a dealer only part. Unfortunately I have not found one anywhere else. I just pulled mine out and cleaned it and the TB with Carbuerator cleaner, and once she rattles again she is good as new :smileup:.

I sent you some info on RTV Silicone, I would go with orange or red on a trans pan or engine oil pan. Basically anything that heats up, red/orange is the way to go. Valve Cover's, Pan's, everything.

The filters are super easy to get to. Be sure to let your RTV Silicone dry for 30 minutes before refilling and a full 12 hours before driving more than a mile or 2.
 
#16 ·
thanks, I now remember our previous conversation about the pcv valve, I'm going to the dealer tomorrow I'll pick one up while I'm there as long as it's not too pricey. I've used some rtv stuff I swear it was called "gasket maker" and was grey, used it on my s10 rear diff cover. Worked great but I didn't buy it it was handed to me. I'll look for the stuff you mentioned.
 
#20 ·
So I have confusion/issues now with this trans service...

I went to autozone to buy the trans filters and such and here's what came up in the computer:

2010 Dodge Truck RAM 1500 SLT 2WD
8 cylinder 287/Q4704 P 4.7L Flex Fuel

Duralast
Part # TF164
This one was a single filter (the flat one) and a gasket


or


2010 Dodge Truck RAM 1500 SLT 2WD
8 Cylinder 345/Q5654 T 5.7L SFI Hemi OHV

Duralast
Part # TF349
This one was both filters (flat one and oil filter looking one) and I think also a gasket
 
#28 ·
I am confused I thought the 4.7L had the same trans and would use the same filter(s)? Since you have a 4.7L armyofone and you've done this can you help?
I used TF 349. The transmissions are identical, except for the bolt pattern on the bell housing and the size of the input shaft.
 
#23 ·
so chvyklr, since yours is 2wd did you only have one filter? Or did you still have 2 filters? According to the autozone database the 4.7L 2wd had one filter, and the hemi 2wd had both...agh stuff like this is so frustrating lol.
 
#25 ·
Ok thanks. I wonder if autozone just lists the other filter separate for some reason (assuming I do have both). Do you guys know the proper names of both filters so I can ask them tomorrow? I may call dodge as well just to see if there are differences...
 
#29 ·
Thank you too! I'd like to do this this weekend so I'll probably go with the duralast one, as they have it in stock down the street. Do you think the wix one is anything better? Also, the kit came with a gasket....did you just not use it?
 
#30 ·
some kits do come with one, some dont. The trans does not REQUIRE it.i personally prefer gaskets...but the 09's dont use them at all. 10's were hit and miss, 11's use one.
 
#31 ·
Ok, if it has a gasket in the kit I'll probably use it just because it is cleaner. I'll see what my truck has now too....I want to buy an aluminum deep pan and this would be the time to do it, but I can't afford it now...
 
#33 ·
Ok, should be doing it saturday. I'm gonna use whatever it has now (gasket vs. RTV), so I'll figure that out once I take the pan off. I went on advanced auto's website and they clearly show the filter kits whereas autozone was confusing. They all have the same part # for the cooler return filter (oil filter looking one), but there are different part numbers for the 2wd vs. 4wd regular flat filter. I know you told me this with the wix one but this just confirms it from another brand....I think it was pro king or something like that....most likely will buy that although I hate advanced auto, would much rather buy from autozone...
 
#34 ·
Did the service this morning. Took me awhile as I got stuck on the dang torx screw that holds the filter as the exhaust was in the way lol. I tried as hard as I could to use the parts from autozone but they don't have it straight in their computer so I went with the advance auto pro king kits. (PK-330 & PK 331) <<that's both filters and the gasket. Also bought 8 qts of castrol ATF 4+ or whatever it is called....

I jacked up the front of my truck a little (my step bars hang low and my big belly doesn't fit lol)
This is the hardest part....no drain plug, so try and drain the pan without making a mess, I did it slowly and didn't spill a drop.
Cleaned up the pan (there was no gasket it was RTV sealant).
Unscrewed the cooler line filter(wow it was tight). Screw on the new one as tight as I could by hand.
Now where I got stuck....the dang torx screw that holds the pan filter on I couldn't get to with my tools (I have limited options for torx) because of the exhaust crossover pipe....so I used a torx bit for like a screwdriver/drill and gripped it with channel locks and got it off (like 30 min lol). Pulled old filter out, installed new filter, made sure it seated well in the rubber ring (I did not swap the rubber ring). Reinstalled and tightened the torx screw the same way and got it snug then a turn or so.
Reinstalled pan and used the rubber gasket just due to ease and I plan on eventually swap the pan for an aluminum deep one so it'll be easier to clean. I set the gasket on the pan on the ground and pushed the screws through to hold the gasket in place, then put it on.
Couldn't maneuver a torque wrench well in the area so tightened in a criss cross pattern till the pan bolts were a little past snug, then torqued one to about 105 in lbs, then felt it with my ratchet, and made the rest match that "feel".
Poured in 4 or 5 qts, checked and it was barely touching the dipstick....poured another and the level was good. Started truck, put in each gear, then checked again, and took another 2 or so qts. You need to buy 8 qts.
I think I actually ended up putting in about 7.5 qts, and I slightly overfilled it. I checked it later after a drive and the trans temp was about 160 deg F, and it was like an 1/8 inch or so about the high mark when hot (it says hot is 180), so it is a little overfilled. Will this hurt it? I can suck some out if need be, but if it won't hurt I'd rather leave it...

Oh I forgot, I also cleaned the magnet in the pan off then reinstalled it while the pan was out.

About $75 for all parts and fluids, that includes a can of cleaner and RTV(I will return for about $7).

Thank you all for all the help. Shifts maybe SLIGHTLY firmer, the old fluid was very red and smelled fine.

Anyone have any info on my slight overfill?