Maybe it's not the head unit but the hvac blend doors stuck in some continuous loop? When you shut the truck off, they should do a self check or calibration after a few minutes. The noise they make when doing this sounds similar to that of a cd changer. Good luck and let us know how you make out. :smileup:

 

That could be it! But when I pull the radio fuse it starts fine every time?!

 

Having the same issue but only after the last recall and radio update performed by the dealer last week. Any chance you recently had any dealer work? Driving me nuts trying to figure it out!

 

Nope, no dealer work done, can’t fogure it out. Also driving me insane

 

Called my guy at the dealer today to get his take. "Could be a module that is failing to sleep causing a draw or the IBS (intelligent battery sensor) is giving off some false code." Either way it is not something I desire to deal with right now. Plan on swinging it by Wednesday to see if they can determine if it is something they did or a coincidence that something failed right after this latest round of recall updates.
Makes one suspect for sure...

 

Well as it turns out, a loose connection at the battery fuse was causing the issue. I suppose when they built the truck some four years ago they cross-threaded the nut on the accessory side of the fuse and it was overheating from years of a loose connection. The overheating discolored the terminal and melted the plastic to the point it just was no longer conducting as it should causing a whole host of electrical issues. Replaced the fuse, tightened everything down, charged the battery and then cleared the codes using the AlphaOBD software. Multiple test runs this afternoon and evening and all appears well. If it starts as it should in the morning it will be grand.
Check those connections as my issue lead me to yours so it could be the beginning of what I was going through this past week and a half.

 

Awesome! I’ll check that out and see what I find, thank you for the info...

 

That was for sure the cause for me. Forgot I had this pic of the carnage. Notice the burnt plastic from the overheating caused from the loose connection. The post should be a silver color and mine is a dark brown almost black.
Hope it helps you or another.

 

That was for sure the cause for me. Forgot I had this pic of the carnage. Notice the burnt plastic from the overheating caused from the loose connection. The post should be a silver color and mine is a dark brown almost black.
Hope it helps you or another.

I have the exact same problem. Leave the fuse 30amp in it drains the battery by morning. Power is not turning on . I hear clicking like pop when In the truck. I gonna pull the head unit out as the weather is getting better . What is that picture angle of?

 

radkawi - Thanks for coming back & letting us know.

 

:smileup:

 

I've been having the same problem

I encountered the same problem 3 weeks ago with my '11 Laramie crew cab; put a new battery in and it was dead 2 days later. I pulled the main 60amp fuse and left it for a day with better weather to look at it. Yesterday I determined that when I pull the radio 30amp fuse the power draw drops. I'll check the connection to the fuse box like your pic shows. I'm hoping that's it; it will be cheaper than a new U-Connect system.

 

I encountered the same problem 3 weeks ago with my '11 Laramie crew cab; put a new battery in and it was dead 2 days later. I pulled the main 60amp fuse and left it for a day with better weather to look at it. Yesterday I determined that when I pull the radio 30amp fuse the power draw drops. I'll check the connection to the fuse box like your pic shows. I'm hoping that's it; it will be cheaper than a new U-Connect system.

Any luck with your issue? Kinda freaky that just a bad connection could prevent your truck modules from going to sleep as they should creating a serious power draw.
Not sure how to post video but I do have one I used to "prove" to the dealer I was not out of my mind. In it, it shows the truck is off, the door is open and the cluster & radio were still on. No sound or anything from the radio but it was still on 20 minutes after I exited the truck. Happened from time to time but never for them so I shot the video.

 

Did you ever figure out this problem? Know it’s been a while but I’m having the exact same issue and don’t wanna spend money on new radio if it’s not the problem.

 

I realize the last post on this thread was over a year ago, but just came across it and am having the same problem in a 2012. Pull radio fuse and no issues with battery draw, tested draw on battery with the fuse in and it cycles up and down from almost 2 amps down to zero, then back up over several minutes. If I put the truck in a darker place and shine a bit of light on head unit, I can see the outline of the ram symbol on the screen like when it starts up.
This truck doesn't have the fuse right at the battery like shown in other posts, connections look fine. Was thinking maybe accessory side of the key switch is still letting power through when in the off position maybe?
Anyone have anymore to add to this problem that could help?

 

Hello, I have the same issue here. I've looked everywhere and the wires are in great shape. Cycling between 1.7 to 1.2A. 2019 Ram 1500 Classic, bone stock (except HPTuner for transmission shift points) I've had many electrical issues in the past 3 years, every single connectors have been replaced on this truck. I don't know where to look, everthing is new and inspected, now the radio or HVAC Unit...