Sorry I dont have an answer for you however one of our talented members will be able to help you out.....Let us know how you make out.....

 

the way i always do it is take the lid off of your brake fluid canister, open the bleeder on the passenger rear put a hose on it going to a bucket, get in the cab pump, pump, pump hold check to see if fluid is coming out, if not repeat untill it does, let it gravity flow for a minute or to, close the bleeder, move to the driver rear tire and repeat, then the front passeger tire, then the driver side, and then make sure your brake fluid level are correct :smileup: this is just how i do it, it has worked for me on all my vehicles ive ever owned. Hope this helps, if there is a better way to do it hopefully someone will chime in

Thanks
Jeremiah
Discount Auto Performance

 

You will need to run the bleed brakes function in the ABS module in order to remove any trapped air. This will require bleeding the brakes, running the function via scan tool and bleeding the brakes again.

 

Anyone know if there is an affordable aftermarket scan tool that will run this function? If so, which one or ones?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

I'm wondering if I just have a bad master cylinder and not the abs at all. I bleed the brakes as described one wheel at a time and all air is out. I drive the vehicle around and making frequent stops periodically the pedal will travel to the floor and feel spongy... Most of the time it would travel to the floor as I'm descending down hill. I don't travel away from the house to far.. Don't want to danger anyone else or myself. I guess I will bleed the brakes once more and if that fails I will go pickup a master cylinder and install it.

 

You should check for leaking calipers and wheel cylinders before randomly throwing parts at the truck. A line lock test will verify a master cylinder problem.

 

Thanks for the advice, Not one for just throwing parts at the truck without justification however could you give a little more detail on this line lock test. Would like to continue with my DIY but want to remain safe at the same time. Thanks in advance for your response.

 

You need 3 pairs of locking pliers and an assistant to do a line lock test. Clamp off each rubber brake line near the top (2 front, 1 rear). Press the brake pedal forcefully. If the pedal bleeds down, you have a bad master cylinder. If not, it's good. Now, have your helper release the pliers one by one with you pressing on the brake. You should notice only a mimimal drop in the pedal as each pair is released. Any big drops mean you have air in that particular section of the braking system.

 

Now that's something I didn't know. Awesome info Randy.

 

Wow,

Great explanation.. Thanks will do it exactly as described and get back with you about my findings. Is there a similar test for the power booster or will this test take care of them both.

 

The booster pretty much works or it doesn't. Symptoms for a bad booster are a hissing noise under the dash that indicates a faulty diaphragm and a high, hard brake pedal due to a lack of assist from the booster. A faulty booster will not cause the brake pedal to bleed down.

 

Why doesn't anyone come back after they find a solution and post what was done that worked? Just about every thread I found relevant to the issues I am having did not come back and explain what they had done that worked.

Kind of frustrating really

 

I had to remove the brake master cylinder and booster to change spark coils and plugs, How can I bleed the master cylinder and lines?

 

First off you did not have to remove the booster and master cylinder. I know it looks like you do but I can tell you for sure that you do not have to. I recently changed my plugs and had no problem. It is pain in the ass but can be done. I had to lay on top of the engine with my legs out front over the grill. Getting the coil packs off was pretty easy. Then came the plugs. I used 2 universal joints connected together and it worked perfect. The socket slid right down into the hole with no problem. My chest was sore afterwards from laying on the engine but I survived. As for bleeding the master cylinder and lines it is like always. Just have someone pump up the pedal and bleed starting from the RR, LR, RF, LF. Or you can do what I do. I got a second master cylinder cap and put a valve stem in it and used compressed air to pressurize the system and bled it that way. Just make sure your master cylinder never gets empty of fluid.

 

Lol...I'ma reply years later and add that if you ever ever remove the tires and rotors brake calipers knuckle, etc on the front while doing maintenance you would have great access to the driver side valve cover so you can replace both the gasket and all eight spark plugs on that side through the fender well area after removing the plastic fender well piece. Total piece of cake and it's the only way I'll ever do it moving forward on my 2007. It might even work with the suspension / brakes still intact. No need to remove ANYTHING on top of the engine or brake booster.