Wanted to know if there was a way to adjust/ or tighten the drivers door? By tighten I mean make it so when you close it it fits tighter against the truck. On windy days moving at 50-60mph I can actually feel the wind coming through near the oh sh!t handle when I put my hand up there. If I go around a turn to the right the force pulls the door away from the truck and can here it a lot then too. Even when Im riding and hiting light bumps and keep my fingers against the door and truck I can feel the door move seperatly from the truck like its not tight enough. I can even push on the door by the oh sh!t handle and make it so the wind is cutting through. When I look in the drivers mirror I can see the black rubber below the glass is not lined up with the rear doors, but the other side is perfect. Im thinking maybe the previous owner was a big guy and getting in and out put a lot of pressure on the door...dont know just an idea and not really concerned with the casue as much as I am with how to fix it.
Kens04
If you're feeling air coming in, there's a good chance you need a new door seal. If you still need an adjustment, I'd recommend having it professionally done if you're not experienced with body work.
IN/OUT
NOTE: In/out door adjustment is done by loosening the hinge to door fasteners one hinge at a time and moving the door to the correct position.
NOTE: When adjustment of the door requires the loosening of the door to hinge fasteners, it will be necessary to separate the epoxy bonded washers with a chisel or other suitable tool.
IN/OUT
NOTE: In/out door adjustment is done by loosening the hinge to door fasteners one hinge at a time and moving the door to the correct position.
NOTE: When adjustment of the door requires the loosening of the door to hinge fasteners, it will be necessary to separate the epoxy bonded washers with a chisel or other suitable tool.
- Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
- Loosen the latch striker bolts.
- Loosen the hinge to door fasteners.
- Adjust the door to the correct position.
- Tighten the door to hinges fasteners to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten the latch striker bolts.
The door seal is in perfect condition ( I know its condition isnt an exact indicator that its functioning properly although the pass. door looks exactly the same), and like I said I can feel, and see that the door isnt sitting right.
Doesnt sound too difficult and as long as I support the door and make sure I do one hinge at a time, a little here and there maybe back and forth to get it perfect. The fact that you can visually see that its off should make it a little easier to get right.
Doesnt sound too difficult and as long as I support the door and make sure I do one hinge at a time, a little here and there maybe back and forth to get it perfect. The fact that you can visually see that its off should make it a little easier to get right.
Yea sounds like somethings up with the door. Try and DIY but becareful, i'd recommend bringing it to a body shop. They would be better ones to do it, unless you trust yourself, then you go girl hahaha.
Just kidding about the girl part, just....you know fn around. Sorry I'm out to lunch
Just kidding about the girl part, just....you know fn around. Sorry I'm out to lunch
Hello Ken. Glad to see you around again. Awsome. As for your door..........well its not exactly easy. My drivers door needs to go back approx 1/8 of a inch. Tried and luck enough to get it back were it was. B#@ch. Really. Have a few extra hands cause its not that easy unless you get lucky.:smileup:
Had to replace the hinge on an Explorer because the roll pins go bad. It was a cast iron B#@CH getting it lined up. I was also alone doing it. Not sure if it would have been easier with another set of hands. I used a floor jack with a block to lift the door.
Remerson posted up the procedure ,but before you start try and figure out where the adjustments are needed.
If you are correct in assuming the PO was using it as an entry assist, you will probably have a " V " shaped gap between your fender and door and an " A " gap between door and B pillar. Inboard or outboard of the door in relation to the fender and B pillar are hopefully not affected.
One of the key works in Remerson's post is LOOSEN the nuts. You may find a half to 3 quarter turn is all that's necessary. You are actually only making a fine adjustment to the door and you don't want if floating around making things worse . There may or may not be paint to break thru depending if the doors are painted on or separate from the vehicle during the paint shop process.
A good steady lift on the bottom of the door is generally enough to reposition (you may hear paint cracking at this point
).
With that being said, it is not really as difficult as it sounds and you can probably get a free estimate at most body shops and as long as your hinges aren't damaged and shouldn't be to expensive anyway....
If you are correct in assuming the PO was using it as an entry assist, you will probably have a " V " shaped gap between your fender and door and an " A " gap between door and B pillar. Inboard or outboard of the door in relation to the fender and B pillar are hopefully not affected.
One of the key works in Remerson's post is LOOSEN the nuts. You may find a half to 3 quarter turn is all that's necessary. You are actually only making a fine adjustment to the door and you don't want if floating around making things worse . There may or may not be paint to break thru depending if the doors are painted on or separate from the vehicle during the paint shop process.
A good steady lift on the bottom of the door is generally enough to reposition (you may hear paint cracking at this point
).With that being said, it is not really as difficult as it sounds and you can probably get a free estimate at most body shops and as long as your hinges aren't damaged and shouldn't be to expensive anyway....
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