[McCraezy]

extremely common issue, normally the 2 back studs break. I personally have never seen a manifold crack on these, but most techs call manifold,gasketm studs and heatshield, along with 2 stud extractions (MIGing them out of the block) because it pays more. My truck is out of warranty so i just replaced the gasket and the studs and its been fine.
Passenger side is a lot easier than driver side,normally can do pass, in about an hour.

 

[papatuv]

My 2011 just started this ( 58000 mi) Still under the power train warranty. After looking at videos of how to do this, I figured I would take advantage of the warranty. Took it to my Dealership today. They called me saying they have to replace the entire manifold along with new studs, gasket, etc. :4-dontknow:

 

[Miklo153]

Reviving an old post!! Exhaust manifold bolts broke! Stock bolts suck!!! Replace them all with some high quality one. They're not too expensive. I did replace the heads and put BBK shorty headers. They do fit. Make sure you torque them to spec in the correct sequence order. As for the ticking sound that is NOT an exhaust leak; I kept reading all the forums and figured it's a Hemi tick. It's not normal. I had been getting a code pop up (Cylinder 6 Misfire), and after performing a tune up and replacing ignition coils it turns out that lifters were stuck, valves were not setting all the way, and springs needed replaced. I had all this work done to my truck and behold, the engine was quiet!! No more ticking sound! Do not let any dealer or technician tell you it's normal. The internal parts might be damaged or messing up. Caused all those problems for me. And still because of this, the cam was damaged as well. The lobes on the came were not to spec anymore. Dealership just kept guessing the problem and taking my money. Went to an former Dodge technician that worked elsewhere and he figured all this out. He said this is a normal this for Hemis. My pockets and wallet are burnt! I hope this helps some of you out there. I Traded in the truck. It had 160k miles on it. RIP truck! ?

 

[tidefan1967]

What did you trade for?

 

[Miklo153]

Went with a 2015 F-150

 

[tidefan1967]

Well at least you didn't buy a GM!

 

[huntergreen]

How are you liking the f150 ?

 

[Miklo153]

I'm really enjoying the F-150. It's the 3.5L Twin Turbo Ecoboost. I thought it would lack the power having had the HEMI before, but it's actually really good. Feels pretty much the same. Good torque too. I'm happy with the new one.

 

[tidefan1967]

It makes a hell of a lot more torque and at lower RPM too. I had a 2013 F150 XLT crew cab with the 3.5 ECO with 3.55 gears and when you stomped it, it would really throw you back in the seat. I hope you got a good deal as those new Fords are pretty expensive.

 

[TruBlu]

I hope you got a good deal as those new Fords are pretty expensive.

Agreed! That's actually what brought me here in 2015. Always owned F150's previously. Always buy my trucks new, but they just would not allow me to haggle in 2015. Timing was bad, the new aluminum trucks were out, supply was low, demand was high. But I'm very happy with my decision to go with a Ram. On my second one now, and that's only due to being offered a great deal on the 2017, so upgraded from a 15' Express to the 17' Big Horn.

But I do feel the OP's pain on those dagum' manifold bolts! Have an 09' Chrysler Aspen with the Hemi and had two of them that needed to be drilled out. NOT cheap! But it seems like a common issue across any makes that have aluminum manifolds on an iron block. :4-dontknow:

 

[Thunderhorse]

a common issue across any makes that have aluminum manifolds on an iron block. :4-dontknow:

Iron manifolds on aluminum heads

 

[TruBlu]

Iron manifolds on aluminum heads

Agh, too much holiday cheer. :doh:

 

[Thunderhorse]

Agh, too much holiday cheer. :doh:

Its good stuff :smileup:

 

[AODRN]

I won the lottery as far as I'm concerned. I have the broken bolt at the rear of the manifold, but I looked closer and realized I still have enough material to grip the bolt with vice grips. No extractor for me!

 

[TruBlu]

I won the lottery as far as I'm concerned. I have the broken bolt at the rear of the manifold, but I looked closer and realized I still have enough material to grip the bolt with vice grips. No extractor for me!

That you did, great news.

 

[ColdCanuck]

That you did, great news.

Indeed it is. I need to tackle this in the spring on the pilot's side. Third time these bolts are pooched! :smiledown:

 

[TruBlu]

Indeed it is. I need to tackle this in the spring on the pilot's side. Third time these bolts are pooched! :smiledown:

Awl man, the same bolts!?!?! :158:

If that's the case, have you considered headers? I've read that some members on here went that route to alleviate the issue altogether. I think I also read where the manifold(s) had to be machined/planed down. I think it was RamTech who had a post on this a while back:

http://www.ramforumz.com/showpost.php?p=1679984&postcount=11

 

[Thunderhorse]

You should try the ARP studs, if they can make a Powerstroke 6.0 their fasteners should be able to do about anything

 

[AODRN]

Headers are my plan. Just waiting for it to get above freezing. Working on a truck at 15 degrees in the driveway is not what I do for fun.

 

[ColdCanuck]

Awl man, the same bolts!?!?! :158:

If that's the case, have you considered headers?

It's always the same bolts - right at the back where the manifolds plug into the No 7 & 8 exhaust ports. The right side's been done twice. The Eagle engines run real hot back there and that's been fingered as the key contributing factor in this issue. I've pondered headers but just hadn't made the leap. Both FCA (in warranty) and I (out of warranty) have invested a small fortune keeping the beast operational. I'm really reluctant to spend on anything other than the bare necessities to keep it running at this point.