You can just replace the bolts and gasket if you can get them out, but I think I have seen on here where some people have replaced the manifold with headers so the blots do not break again. Maybe do a search and you might find some threads about it.

 

Check flange surface with a straight edge for warping tolerance, replacing with OEM gasket/manifold will produce the same future problem.

I recommend remflex gasket and/or plane the cast iron surface back true, retorque bolts after a few hundred miles.

 

Remove manifold,and since it has already been thru many heat cycles and warped,just resurface them on a belt sander back flat.New gaskets and bolts and good as new.Works better than new manifolds.

 

Or break open the wallet and get some ARH long tube stainless premium headers. They should be good for a very long time, no more leaks.

 

A local shop replaces bolts with titanium ones. You’ll never have them break again

 

Had same, very common issue, just Google "hemi tick". The real issue will be getting the broken studs out. And you will prob have more broken than you realize. I thought I had 2 or 3 broken on the passenger side, took it to the shop, there were multiple broken on both sides. I watched some YT videos on this and decided it was not something I was willing to tackle. Decided to upgrade since both manifolds were coming off. Found some BBK stainless ceramic coated shorties that were direct bolt on, got some Stage 8 manifold bolts, and a set of OEM gaskets (had more than one person tell me they are the best for the Hemi). If you don't want to go with the headers, def get the upgraded bolts - the OEM bolts are junk (obviously). If you're going to take it to a shop, might be a good idea to call around and discuss to see if the shop is 1) knowledgeable about this issue and 2) they're willing to do it. It can be a real b*tch to get those broken studs out. Good luck

 

Not sure why Ram cannot get this right. This bolt breaking issue has been going on for many years. Sad!

Do NOT replace with stronger bolts. Its cheaper to replace bolts than the block. Trust me use factory bolts they will break again but its better than the alternative.

 

Bp is correct ,if you use stronger bolts they will just pull the threads out of your heads. If you go with headers strong bolts are ok

 

Ram is not the only one with issue. I know Ford had it with the 5.4 and I beleive Chevy has or had it.

 

Cast iron is cheap for molding in mass production, which are why the 5.7 blocks don’t have the shorty SRT steel flange versions. There is a reason you pay the premium 8 grand upgrade for the 6.4 package cars.

“Titanium” has galvanic properties more so than stainless steel so I would advise against that dissimilar material.

We engineers design in failure modes, more cost effective to replace a few dollars in hardware than an Eagle head. The 4 outer heat shield bolt/studs are 99% of the initial shear breaks. Grab a wrench and check them periodically during a tire rotation.

 

Garc - Check them for what? Breakage or that they remain tight to avoid breaking? Is there anything to be said for annual loosing and retorque if the trucks still new? The idea would be to keep them free and moving to hopefully avoid having top replace, but to also make sure they can be removed when they do break? I have no interest in doing headers to mine ever. I would look at it if the studs break and the manifolds have to come out but I am not looking for performance gain, but instead longevity in the truck. I had the issue with my old Ford, but they'd seal them selves are 15 to 30 seconds of running, but it still sounds like crap and I know its not good for the motor in the long run.

 

Tom,
Grab a 13mm box end and just make sure they clicker torque to ~15 ft lbs. *If the 8.8 m8x1.25 bolt yields before 20 it was already being stretched.

The heat shield would need to be removed or bent to replace any of those 4.

Cold, dense air reaching into valve stems has always impacted longevity.

Thanks,
Tim

 

Garc - So an annual maintenance of retorquing will preserve them, or just tell me sooner when they broke? Mine is only a 2019 with under 18000 miles so I'm looking for way to preserve for the long term.

 

I think the idea is to not let several get broken because it spirals. The weight being held by fewer studs becomes an issue. Replace broken ones right away. Eventually the manifold flange warps and needs sanding flat and new gaskets, because of the ticking noise. And all new studs with the install. Correct factory grade, not hardened high grade.