bump this up for the daytime forum viewers

 

:rep:Thanks for the tip. I'll have to check mine out!

 

Thats is a good write up!! That will help all the other members out and make their rides run a bit better!! Great job man!!

 

Glad I could help.

I noticed it seemed it was downshifting more quickly when I want it to and all as well...

so...I looked more into it.

The computer also uses the TPS to judge when to downshift...I wonder if that could fix the problem people come acrossed with their truck downshifting all the time...

Worth a try for anyone with a 5.9 anyway.

 

i set mine up when i had to replace it and i too enjoyed my new found power.

 

:smileup: good idea i never even thought to check the one on my truck

 

haha...me either. I was just setting it on my car (which you have to set every now and then) and it hit me...any car with a TPS can have this same issue...lol So, I gave it a shot and was happy with the results.

Hey man thats awesome. I'll look into doin that, gotta borrow the voltmeter though haha.

Yes...try it, see if it makes a difference. Especially since you have mods done to your truck, you'll probably notice it even more (if its out of adjustment, anyhow).

 

Hey man thats awesome. I'll look into doin that, gotta borrow the voltmeter though haha.

 

dude if this works your a genious its funny u posted this cause i toyed with mine the other day wondering if it was a possible wear and tear item, silly me i just di-electric grease'd her and put her back in but i am gunna try your idea tomorrow! wish me luck and thanks for using ur noodle!

 

I tried it. No reading from it with the key on. Ugh.. Lol. I see three wires on the side. Black in front. Red. And then purple. I know it's the right thing. Got myself a CEL now cause dad pulled it.

 

not sure if I mentioned this in the post, but, was your truck at operating temp?
And, did you get the tester in there far enough? Its kinda a flakey connection, but, thats how the service manual said to do it. You kinda have to push the testers in pretty hard and hold them there.

Also, since he took it off, it will definitley need adjusting.

And, just unplug the battery, it should clear the code once everything is hooked up again. Mine did the same thing since I unplugged it.

Also, thanks for the rep guys Just trying to help out some fellow 5.9 guys.
And, this should be the same for a 5.2L. Not sure if I mentioned that either. But, they're practically the same engine/fuel injection system.

 

:smileup: Nice job writing that up, information like that is what makes this such a great forum. Reps for you. :rep:

 

All he unplugged was in fact the plug, you believe it will need adjusting then?

I'll try again after school. I have an analog voltmeter... lol it's hard to read for .5 to 1.5 volts.

 

oh...no...nevermind. I thought you said he completley removed it from the TB.

But, I used a digital one, may be easier with an analog, though.

and after school? Ouch, we're out already. Not that I'm bragging or anything

 

i could only adjust mine to .8 volts, do u think if i got a new tps it would make any difference, like being able to adjust it to a full volt at closed throttle? id imagine because its a high movement part that it would wear the contact points between the seat and the sensor, i am just curious if i put a totally new one in would i get a bit more snap out of ye ol'360.

 

you have an 03 with a 360? Wow, thats rare. Might be worth something someday...lol

But, you want it as close to 1 volt at closed throtte as possible. Mine was only at .67 since it has 143000 miles on it...haha. So, you are closer than me.

 

so would i need a new one if i had 135xxx miles on mine ?

 

Not necessairly, I'd check the numbers, try to adjust it and go from there.

 

great write up! wish I was home...I would check it out on my 5.2.

 

Mine has 143,000 miles on it and its fine. You actually don't get much adjustment out of it, but, I'm guessing every little bit counts.

But, if you're not able to get it above .5 volts, then, you probably need a new one.

When I did the throttle body mod I just used all the sensors on it, and I couldn't get above .60 and it didn't seem to run as strong, so, I put my original one back on and it was closer to .72.

 

I just tried this and Im kinda stuck.... I loosened both bolts and Im not understanding how to turn the tps... it seems that the bolts keep it in place, and it doesnt "swivel"... Can some one tell me what I am doing wrong here?? Thanks!!!

 

yeah, theres just enough play in there to give you a little adjustment.

Basically, the factory tried to make them so they were just a bolt on deal, but, as they age, every little bit counts.

With mine, I can get nearly .10 of a change in voltage just by moving it a little each way, just try and get it to the number closest to 1.00 volt and tighten her down.

I considered trying to knock the metal keepers out, but, I'll try it before I recommend anyone doing it.

 

can you go too far? if I am at 1.16, is that bad?? I started the truck at the 1.16-1.18 range and it idled high (IMO)... idling over 1k... Think the high idle will calm down or is this too much?

 

you want lower, closer to 1 volt then. Also, youre not adjusting it with the truck running, are you?

But, the idle will hunt at first, then recover. But, as I said, 1.16 is a little high.

 

I got the 1.16 because I decided to change it up a little... I had very very little play ( actually none ) to adjust with just the screws... after taking it off, I decided to try to add a small spacer inside the tps which does the same thing as turning it... my spacer might have been too thick so I will find something thinner... I did all of the adjusting with the truck off... I only let it idle for about 30 seconds at the 1.16 reading so maybe it would calm down after I drove it.....

 

couple pics of my ram:

 

Is this possible on the 2002? I've tried the procedure...but I don't get any voltage readings. The back of the plug?

 

yeah, you need to "back probe" the plug, meaning, stick a volt reader's prongs in the back of the plug where the wires go in.

Also, your key has to be in the ON position with the engine warm.

 

and...nice ram lukc. Love that color.

 

Thank you sir! alot of the color is rattle can matching paint... it had bad peeling... So you think I could like a "spacer" of sorts in the TPS, essentialy turning it?? is 1.16 better than .74? its closer to 1 but I am wondering if its too high... Maybe I can get a thinner piece of material to take up the space and get the magical 1 number...

what you think??

 

haha...rattle can actually shows well in pictures...lol

But, as far as the spacer, I don't know if I would do that. I wouldn't want you to risk maybe damaging anything.

But, mine is right at .72, so, .74 is better than mine.

Best bet would probably be to hit the yard and try and find a truck with lower miles than yours and grab its TPS if you really want to find one closer to 1 volt.

 

What if you can only get .7 volts and then 1.7volts at full throttle?

 

How many miles does your truck have?

But, if 1.7 volts is the maximum at full throttle, I suspect your TPS may be bad. However, being yours is the new body style truck, I don't know if its different or not.

 

Whoops...I meant .7v and 3.7v at full throttle. Should I replace it? Or is it still good?

 

oh...okay...haha.

Thats fine. Between .5 and 1.5 at idle, and 3.5 and 4.5 at full throttle.

So, as long as your within that range, you're good.

 

TPS

The 3-wire Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is mounted on the throttle body and is connected to the throttle blade.

The TPS is a 3-wire variable resistor that provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an input signal (voltage) that represents the throttle blade position of the throttle body. The sensor is connected to the throttle blade shaft. As the position of the throttle blade changes, the resistance (output voltage) of the TPS changes.

The PCM supplies approximately 5 volts to the TPS. The TPS output voltage (input signal to the PCM) represents the throttle blade position. The PCM receives an input signal voltage from the TPS. This will vary in an approximate range of from 0.26 volts at minimum throttle opening (idle), to 4.49 volts at wide open throttle. Along with inputs from other sensors, the PCM uses the TPS input to determine current engine operating conditions. In response to engine operating conditions, the PCM will adjust fuel injector pulse width and ignition timing.

The PCM needs to identify the actions and position of the throttle blade at all times. This information is needed to assist in performing the following calculations:

• Ignition timing advance
• Fuel injection pulse-width
• Idle (learned value or minimum TPS)
• Off-idle (0.06 volt )
• Wide Open Throttle (WOT) open loop (2.608 volts above learned idle voltage)
• Deceleration fuel lean out
• Fuel cutoff during cranking at WOT (2.608 volts above learned idle voltage)
• A/C WOT cutoff (certain automatic transmissions only)

The above info is from alldata, But i have drilled out the metal retainers(be careful plastic gets hot as the sleaves spin from the drill bit catch and push out) and just put washers on the bolts and it idles @ 800-1000rpm @ 0.93v lowered it 0.74v and got a good idle @ 700-775rpm.

The next question that should be asked is if you disconnect the battery to refresh the ecu to learn again will this affect the adjustment.