Wow that's pretty crazy!

 

Wait, wait - are you talking about the 2 lights over head that you have to push in to turn them off/on? Because if that is what you are talking about, I'm pretty sure you can just change the bulb. Pop the clear lenses off and pull them suckers right out.

 

I have the exact same problem and was given the exact same solution. I'm still waiting for my overhead thing to be delivered to the dealer, so far it's taken 4 weeks. Totally stupid to have to replace the whole thing for a single LED bulb.

 

Good gravy, I'm so confused - are you guys talking about the tiny little pin-sized light that is always on? Or are you two talking about the 2 map lights that you have to press to turn on/ turn off? Because if it's the 2 LED maplights, you can pop the clear lenses off and pull the bulbs out and change them. I did that the day after I bought the truck.

I apologize if I'm thinking of something different here...

 

The driver and passenger map lights.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmALp8DNYAo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N58LPF5lbZQ

the 2nd video shows the guy using his bare fingers while holding the bulb, he must not realize that the natural oil of his fingers could cause the bulb to burn out faster

 

Those videos are not for 2014 sport. I have the same problem, my map lights flicker> I cannot see how to even get to the bulbs. I pulled covers off and the panel partially down on the one end. Not sure why they have to change whole panel that is f?????? insane. Looks like a loose connection. So what happens after warranty.
Has anyone taken the panel right out and check. I don`t want to take to dealer and have them destroy my headliner with greasy hands.
Makes you wonder how cheap these trucks are built

 

I going to remove the panel, I will check for poor solder connections on the plug receptacle for the map lights. To me the bulbs are not causing the problem, a bulb will either work or burnt out, not dim and shut off and come back on

 

I tried to change mine to led (not knowing they were led), and when I popped the lens off, and realized it was led, went to put the lens back on and broke the tab, they had to replace the whole overhead console unit luckily they did it under warranty, but they forgot to plug in a wire in the "a" pillar so it had to go back in and they had to take it apart again. Picked it up the first time and they were closed or else I would have went in right away, but its fixed now I know not to mess with it

 

That's fine if it`s under warranty, but what about after warranty. This will cost Chrysler big time, replacing the whole panel under warranty, then cost us a fortune after warranty.

 

Pulled the panel down, but the wire is so short, cannot get hands in to remove the harness plugs (4 of them)

 

I pulled the whole panel down and disconnected all wires/plugs. There is no way to take the console apart and get to the lights without destroying it. The panels have been put together then plastic dowels were melted/expanded to hold everything together. One plug supplies power to both lights from what I can tell. There are two seperate "push pin" switches that turn them on and off when depressed, those were fine. I even switched them out to see if that was the problem. Still not fixed. The back story here is that my sunroof was rattling. I put up with it for as long as I could before I took it in. They dropped the headliner and discovered an incomplete track system. Ordered a new one and installed it. Picked up the truck with front and rear seat leathers cut, steering wheel cut, all pillar covers scratched and a missing air deflector. A month later they called to let me know the would replace all damaged items. Picked it up again with only 2/3 of the issues fixed. Hey the sunroof rattle is gone though!! LMAO! It's not just Ram, it's Chevy, Ford etc. etc. I've owned them all. The last thing you want to do is take it to the dealer. They will scratch, break, dent or misdiagnose the problem. Now we can't even change a damn light! SMH!

 

I would be concerned of them damaging the headliner too, I heard of people getting their trucks back from service with greasy hand prints all over headliner. I tried the push switches as well. They are fine. I can`t seem to get the connectors to unplug to remove panel. I was hoping that the panel came apart once I got it out.

 

The inner dark colored piece will come apart from the outer light colored trim, but you would have to grind/cut the melted dowels to get the rest apart to access the lights. I'm not saying it can't be done but you run the risk of not being able to put it back together. I also got greasy hand prints on the headliner but that was the least of my worries with everything else. Oh yea, my sunroof no longer rattles but if someone slams the door too hard it sound like a piece of metal slaps against the roof now. So I'm sure it's just a matter of time before something else up there lets go. I also had them check my auto tailgate lock while it was in because it worked randomly. The said they replaced it. It was obvious that the tork screws had never been removed to access it so I called them out on it especially since it was still not working. Long story...deny and lie and smile is what I got. Don't get me wrong I love this truck, but the build quality and service suck! People say well it's your dealer, mine is awesome. To them I say it's just a matter of time if you trade enough and need warranty work. I'm 42 years old and have owned @ 30 new vehicles give or take. Service departments suck! Especially if you expect your 50K truck to be returned to you in the same condition you dropped it off in minus fixing the problem. That's why I tried to live with the rattle for almost a year. Sorry for the rant.

 

My map lights started flickering on my 2014 soon after I got it. The dealer replaced the console under warranty. No problem after that. No problem so far with my 2015. Hopefully whatever it was that was failing on these consoles has been fixed.

 

My drivers side LED map light started flickering a while back, the dealer had to replace the whole "module/map assembly" under warranty. While I really like the LED lights, I'm sure it's not a cheap fix out of warranty.

 

The console is @ $180 to $200 new on ebay. No it's not a cheap fix.

 

you can be sure that someone is grabbing those units up, drilling out the melted plastic dowels, repairing the unit & reselling them

There is a business or 2 that modifies the radio bezels from a few years ago, they are originally made with the plastic dowels that have to be drilled out to dismantle the bezel to add auxiliary switches

 

You have to pry the chrome cover off to access the LED

 

Where you able to reattach the chrome cover easily?

 

It breaks the nibs (melted plastic) that hold the chrome piece, The chrome will not go back on. You have to drill small holes where the nibs broke and use tiny screws to install the chrome piece

 

Where did you get the lights and what is the part number? I may give it a shot.:smileup:

 

I realize this is an thread, but my lights just started acting up. So I looked into it and found a video on the tube.

Here is a link: https://youtu.be/O28Y_5hx_sw

I don’t necessarily like the look of it, but I will be doing a variation of the mod he did. Hope this helps.

 

I had the same issue and they had to replace the entire unit. Under warranty but still $100 deductible.

 

I was able to pop the 2 factory lights on my 14 ram Laramie and change them. They were tight but they poped out and New ones pushed right in

 

SOLVED! I know this thread is older but I had this issue on my 14 Sport flickering for years and I finally tackled it! You do have to remove the whole assembly, pull out the 4 plugs (a pain) and then you can get at it from behind (that's what she said).

Once removed completely you can put in on a table and see everything. Tools you will need is a snipper, small flat screwdriver, and patience!

The small gray nubs holding the chrome piece on I snipped down some leaving just enough so it will go back on. Take a flat screwdriver and carefully pry the 3 off. There is also a clip under one side as well that needs to be pushed in. Take your time!

Once the top piece is removed you can pull the built in LED straight up and out. (No longer will need the whole built in LED)

Get small LED bulbs like the same for license plate. Needs to be the correct height otherwise it will hit the chrome piece once put back on. Insert new LED and go back into truck plug in correct plug and test it.

Once verified both leds work, put the chrome piece back on top and snap it down in place over the 3 gray nubs. If you took off too much put in a little screw or something else to secure it down. The clip under no longer is needed since it's just the bulb and no built in LED anymore.

Reassemble and plug in all connectors. Please test all before pushing fully back in. Garage opener, back window, little stay on light is centered and connected right.

I was sooo happy I figured this out! I was told at a dealer the whole thing needed to be replaced! Yuck.

So in basic quick terms the build in LED can be removed and a common LED bulb can be put in its place! Just takes some time to remove and figure out but now you have a guide! My wife doesn't understand why I'm so proud completing this today but it made my day!