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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I am confused I thought the 4.7L had the same trans and would use the same filter(s)? Since you have a 4.7L armyofone and you've done this can you help?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
so chvyklr, since yours is 2wd did you only have one filter? Or did you still have 2 filters? According to the autozone database the 4.7L 2wd had one filter, and the hemi 2wd had both...agh stuff like this is so frustrating lol.
 
so chvyklr, since yours is 2wd did you only have one filter? Or did you still have 2 filters? According to the autozone database the 4.7L 2wd had one filter, and the hemi 2wd had both...agh stuff like this is so frustrating lol.
sorry, shoulda gave you more info. the Wix kit I ordered off Amazon came with both (spin on & flat) filters in one box. they listed 2 different P/Ns (4x4 & 2wd). I think the only difference is in the flat filter.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Ok thanks. I wonder if autozone just lists the other filter separate for some reason (assuming I do have both). Do you guys know the proper names of both filters so I can ask them tomorrow? I may call dodge as well just to see if there are differences...
 
So I have confusion/issues now with this trans service...

I went to autozone to buy the trans filters and such and here's what came up in the computer:

2010 Dodge Truck RAM 1500 SLT 2WD
8 cylinder 287/Q4704 P 4.7L Flex Fuel

Duralast
Part # TF164
This one was a single filter (the flat one) and a gasket


or


2010 Dodge Truck RAM 1500 SLT 2WD
8 Cylinder 345/Q5654 T 5.7L SFI Hemi OHV

Duralast
Part # TF349
This one was both filters (flat one and oil filter looking one) and I think also a gasket
I am confused I thought the 4.7L had the same trans and would use the same filter(s)? Since you have a 4.7L armyofone and you've done this can you help?
I used TF 349. The transmissions are identical, except for the bolt pattern on the bell housing and the size of the input shaft.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Thank you too! I'd like to do this this weekend so I'll probably go with the duralast one, as they have it in stock down the street. Do you think the wix one is anything better? Also, the kit came with a gasket....did you just not use it?
 
Thank you too! I'd like to do this this weekend so I'll probably go with the duralast one, as they have it in stock down the street. Do you think the wix one is anything better? Also, the kit came with a gasket....did you just not use it?
some kits do come with one, some dont. The trans does not REQUIRE it.i personally prefer gaskets...but the 09's dont use them at all. 10's were hit and miss, 11's use one.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Ok, if it has a gasket in the kit I'll probably use it just because it is cleaner. I'll see what my truck has now too....I want to buy an aluminum deep pan and this would be the time to do it, but I can't afford it now...
 
the gasket is prob all folded up in the box and it will be a huge PITA getting the rubber gasket to cooperate so all the pan bolts will line up.

to each his own but I would use the red high-temp RTV. let us know which route you go and how it works out.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Ok, should be doing it saturday. I'm gonna use whatever it has now (gasket vs. RTV), so I'll figure that out once I take the pan off. I went on advanced auto's website and they clearly show the filter kits whereas autozone was confusing. They all have the same part # for the cooler return filter (oil filter looking one), but there are different part numbers for the 2wd vs. 4wd regular flat filter. I know you told me this with the wix one but this just confirms it from another brand....I think it was pro king or something like that....most likely will buy that although I hate advanced auto, would much rather buy from autozone...
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Did the service this morning. Took me awhile as I got stuck on the dang torx screw that holds the filter as the exhaust was in the way lol. I tried as hard as I could to use the parts from autozone but they don't have it straight in their computer so I went with the advance auto pro king kits. (PK-330 & PK 331) <<that's both filters and the gasket. Also bought 8 qts of castrol ATF 4+ or whatever it is called....

I jacked up the front of my truck a little (my step bars hang low and my big belly doesn't fit lol)
This is the hardest part....no drain plug, so try and drain the pan without making a mess, I did it slowly and didn't spill a drop.
Cleaned up the pan (there was no gasket it was RTV sealant).
Unscrewed the cooler line filter(wow it was tight). Screw on the new one as tight as I could by hand.
Now where I got stuck....the dang torx screw that holds the pan filter on I couldn't get to with my tools (I have limited options for torx) because of the exhaust crossover pipe....so I used a torx bit for like a screwdriver/drill and gripped it with channel locks and got it off (like 30 min lol). Pulled old filter out, installed new filter, made sure it seated well in the rubber ring (I did not swap the rubber ring). Reinstalled and tightened the torx screw the same way and got it snug then a turn or so.
Reinstalled pan and used the rubber gasket just due to ease and I plan on eventually swap the pan for an aluminum deep one so it'll be easier to clean. I set the gasket on the pan on the ground and pushed the screws through to hold the gasket in place, then put it on.
Couldn't maneuver a torque wrench well in the area so tightened in a criss cross pattern till the pan bolts were a little past snug, then torqued one to about 105 in lbs, then felt it with my ratchet, and made the rest match that "feel".
Poured in 4 or 5 qts, checked and it was barely touching the dipstick....poured another and the level was good. Started truck, put in each gear, then checked again, and took another 2 or so qts. You need to buy 8 qts.
I think I actually ended up putting in about 7.5 qts, and I slightly overfilled it. I checked it later after a drive and the trans temp was about 160 deg F, and it was like an 1/8 inch or so about the high mark when hot (it says hot is 180), so it is a little overfilled. Will this hurt it? I can suck some out if need be, but if it won't hurt I'd rather leave it...

Oh I forgot, I also cleaned the magnet in the pan off then reinstalled it while the pan was out.

About $75 for all parts and fluids, that includes a can of cleaner and RTV(I will return for about $7).

Thank you all for all the help. Shifts maybe SLIGHTLY firmer, the old fluid was very red and smelled fine.

Anyone have any info on my slight overfill?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Oh also, I never monitored my trans temp closely but was after driving the rest of the day (did a good bit of driving, at least 100 miles)...and while cruising around 50 mph or so the temp seemed to be around 150 to 155 deg. When cruising around 70mph it was around 160-165 deg. I stopped and let it idle for like 10 min while loading the bed (wife had to have AC in the passenger seat lol) and the temp got up to 177 deg in that time....is this abnormal?
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Well I just did a bunch of googling, and what I found about slightly overfilling the trans is that it is no big deal. The worste I need to watch out for is the fluid gettting overly hot and expanding and dripping out the fill tube and getting on the exhaust and catching fire....well I drove a lot today and that didn't happen haha. Other bad thing would be the fluid sitting above the gasket on the pan and causing a leak...if that's the worste that's not so bad. I found that transmissions have a vent and it acts as a overflow so any excessive amount of fluid would come out the vent. I think I maybe have like 1/4 to 1/2 qt too much....shouldn't matter.

I also googled the temp and most other vehicles the trans operates closer to 200 deg, or higher. So I'm now not concerned about the temp either...
 
nice write up! I wouldn't worry about an 1/8" b/c that's hardly anything. I have no idea what the 4.7L exhaust looks like but when I did my y-pipe replacment I had the exhaust cross-over moved aft towards the trans output flange. I figuered this would make trans fluid replacements easier and it allows me to run the deepest pan possible (which is the 68RFE by the way). Still have not swapped mine out yet so I don't know how much fluid increase you get but I think it's like a 4 qt increase.

Oh and I've seen my trans temps rise while idling too. Not sure if it's the lack of air flow thru the trans cooler or what.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
nice write up! I wouldn't worry about an 1/8" b/c that's hardly anything. I have no idea what the 4.7L exhaust looks like but when I did my y-pipe replacment I had the exhaust cross-over moved aft towards the trans output flange. I figuered this would make trans fluid replacements easier and it allows me to run the deepest pan possible (which is the 68RFE by the way). Still have not swapped mine out yet so I don't know how much fluid increase you get but I think it's like a 5 qt increase.

Oh and I've seen my trans temps rise while idling too. Not sure if it's the lack of air flow thru the trans cooler or what.
Thanks, yeah when I do my exhaust I will also move it similarly to you. My exhaust pipe is also crimped flat where it crosses over, just another restriction.

Do you have a pic of that pan?

I changed my oil this morning, so figured I'd use some vacuum line and suction gun to suck some fluid out, I probably pulled out about 1/2 qt and the level seems correct now (cold) I will check hot later...
 
I haven't taken it out of the box yet but can easity snap a pic or two if you want. Here is the link to Mag hytec. Says this pan holds 3-4 qts more than the stock 68RFE pan so I don't know how that would compare to the stock 545RFE pan.

I bought mine early b/c I was shopping around and found it for $285 plus the site was having a 10% everything sale with free shipping. Shop the diesel sites for the best price.

http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=82
 
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