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'14 5.7l dtc p0308 & p2323

27K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  Kevin918250  
#1 ·
Tried the 'ask a tech' section, but wouldn't let me access. My '14 Ram 1500 just suddenly started running very rough, MIL light on. Put a scan tool on, shows P0308 and P2323. Cleared them, drove about 5 miles, at a stop sign MIL light back on and running rough. Any ideas for fixes? Thanx. (65+K miles)
 
#2 ·
Now know it's a misfire on coil #8. Question now is how to get connector off. I see it has a red outer clip that I can get slid up about a quarter inch. After that, is it just pry the connector up, or what? Was gonna disconnect & reconnect and see if that doesn't help it. Also, any other checks to be made to test wires at connector and/or the coil itself?
 
#3 ·
It sounds like the clip is already unfastened, the wire harness should just pull off from there. I broke a clip off one of my coils during my last plug change, oops. :158:

Its not a big deal though.

Hopefully you can just swap in a new coil and be good to go. Be sure to let us know
 
#4 ·
Well, cleared codes w/ my DCX tuner. Pulled #8 coil, checked ohms at pins vs a new part. Exactly the same. So, swapped #4 and #8 coils, cleared codes. Drove it, MIL light came back on again, and running rough. Same codes again - for #8. So, coil is fine. Pulled coil again and installed 2 new spark plugs on #8, cleared codes. Throws same codes again, and running rough. Truck is going to a mechanic friend of mine tomorrow for a little wiring and connector diagnosis. Hopefully something easy (read 'cheap'!).
 
#5 ·
Read "cyl #8 misfire" by ramdam elsewhere on this forum, and looks to be the same problem. Don't, however, know his outcome.

I had previously ruled out a coil or spark plug problem. Took it to a mechanic for a quick diagnosis (giving me about 45 minutes free of charge), and after hooking some diagnostic tool (sorry - don't know the proper name of it) to connectors, has found there is no pulse going to #8 cylinder coil OR injector. He attempted to disconnect inboard connector of the two large harnesses on the passenger side firewall (ECM?), to see if had a bad / corroded connection or something, but upon trying to pull up on the red lock, that lock broke.

So - a few questions for you tech-types. How are you supposed to release / remove the harnesses at said 'ECM'? How do you remove one with a broken latch? And (more importantly) what should I be looking at next? My mechanic is figuring it is probably a bad ECM, but really hasn't spent enough time to know for sure. He's a good shade-tree guy, and only likes to tackle one electrical problem a week, as he has much work on normal maintenance items to keep him very busy. I could see it could be a wiring problem in the harness between the ECM and the connectors - but both coil and injector not getting signal?

Obviously this has happened before (ramdam, and same cylinder), hoping someone might give me a heads-up if there is a known problem / fix for this. Running rough all the time now. Thanx for any help provided!
 

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#6 ·
(hears crickets...)

Nobody has any info? No one?!?!
 
#7 · (Edited)
Re: that big connector on the PCM. The red lever moves two sliders, which in turn when sliding, will partially move the connector out of the receptacle. If the red lever is broken, it can be a real PITA to get those to sliders to move, and get the connector out.

The PCM supplies/switches the ground side of each coil and injector.

Edit: I Googled the P2323 DTC and found it's for the ignition coil secondary circuit. The information below about swapping the injectors around might be a waste of time. If moving the #8 coil to another cylinder didn't work, then I'd check to be sure the coil is getting power and ground. If you can get the connector off the PCM, then perform a continuity check on the wires to the coil.

I have seen a lot of injector failures on high mile/hour hemis. You might try swapping the injectors between cylinders 6 and 8. The injectors are actually easier to get to than the coils are. Be careful, the injector o-rings like to stick in the fuel rail when you pull the injector out, then fall out and get lost. They are bright blue and usually easy to spot.

As you have discovered, there are little red locks on each of the coil connectors. After sliding the lock up, you have to press on the black part of the connector, below the red lock, to get it to release. It usually takes a good firm press. The injector electrical connectors are similar, but usually a little easier to press. A small blast of compressed air will help remove any dirt/sand trapped under the connector locks.