Wussup "Z"? Gotta question for you, I'm driving a 2014 Longhorn that's just rolling over 10,000 miles on the odometer. This will be my third oil change and I've put conventional oil for my first two oil changes. Pensoil ( & a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer ) is what I used for years in all my past vehicles without any engine issues on any of them. They lasted for extended miles and ran great. Now to my question, what's the big push for full synthetic oil? Until I joined this forum I never really heard people so dedicated to putting full synthetic. Plus the manual says use conventional oil. I know synthetic doesn't break down, and lasts longer than conventional, is that the only benefit? That and saving money on longer intervals of oil changes? I have no issues with 3000 miles oil changes its what I've always done. Unless convinced otherwise on this thread, help?
5.7L Hemi Conventional or Full Synthetic Oil?
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Joe Kool
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First oil change the factory oil smelled like something dead. It was bad, real bad. Changed oil at about 3,000 miles first time around. Used Pennzoil 5w30 conventional oil and wix filter. Plan on changing oil at 5,000 mile mark from here on out. Changed oil again at about 8,200 miles, oil life was at like 49% remaining . Oil did not smell like something dead this time.
Anyone else notice that terrible smell?
Anyone else notice that terrible smell?
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969 Posts
I have a hard time trusting the OLM in vehicles, too. My wife's 2010 Chevy Equinox was due for oil change last summer. So, I took it into the dealership when the OLM read 10% left. When I got there, I was informed that the OLM needed to be reprogrammed. The oil life was not expected to last as long as what the engineer's first thought.
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682 Posts
Personal choice, not logic
That fact that you decided not to use it is your personal choice.
What do you use now?
As far as a synthetic motor oil, Mobil 1 has a time tested (rather mileage tested) history of being fully adequate as a motor oil.
That fact that you decided not to use it is your personal choice.
What do you use now?
Full Synthetics
In addition to lasting longer, it flows better in cold weather starts, has much better hot temperature stability ie: won't break down, causes much less sludge. You also get better gas mileage and can free up a couple of HP which has been proven. Power Block TV tested an engine and picked up around 5 HP over conventional oil.
Hope this helps.
In addition to lasting longer, it flows better in cold weather starts, has much better hot temperature stability ie: won't break down, causes much less sludge. You also get better gas mileage and can free up a couple of HP which has been proven. Power Block TV tested an engine and picked up around 5 HP over conventional oil.
Hope this helps.
The factory uses cheep break in oil. It's less refined so it has the smell of burnt petroleum. Break in oil helps the Rings seal. Allows a little more friction to seat the rings properly. After a couple thousand miles you've got to get that stuff out. Could have some small shavings ect.
I run it easy, accelerate easy for 500 miles then change to a full synthetic.
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Oil and mileage change
Synthetic or a blend is definitely the way to go. Provides superior protection for your engine and can stand up to higher temperatures. Being that it doesn't break down as easily it doesn't need to be changed as often, (every 7.5-10k) as opposed to conventional (every 3-5k), so even though you may be spending more it isn't as frequent. And its the oil companies that recommend changing your oil every x amount of miles. My dad used to work for Hess and told me that when oil first came about they said it never needed to be changed. A few years later when they stopped making money they decided to take that one back, haha
Synthetic or a blend is definitely the way to go. Provides superior protection for your engine and can stand up to higher temperatures. Being that it doesn't break down as easily it doesn't need to be changed as often, (every 7.5-10k) as opposed to conventional (every 3-5k), so even though you may be spending more it isn't as frequent. And its the oil companies that recommend changing your oil every x amount of miles. My dad used to work for Hess and told me that when oil first came about they said it never needed to be changed. A few years later when they stopped making money they decided to take that one back, haha
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15,732 Posts
break in oil? i thought they just factory filled with penzoil yellow bottle. a dino oil.
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15,732 Posts
i still change by time or mileage, what ever comes first.
You don't run synthetic to get better mileage, you run it because it coats parts better and flows better at colder temps for less startup wear. It also is more pure and keeps your internals from getting varnish and sludge built up; and it is far more resistant to shear forces and heat.
If you get an oil analysis at the same interval with a synthetic sump and one with conventional then you should have less wear materials (lead from bearings, aluminum from pistons, chrome from pistons, iron from the block, cam, crank, etc...). Especially if you work the engine harder by towing or hauling heavily and/or frequently, off roading, pulling steep grades and other taxing tasks, your engine will last longer
If you get an oil analysis at the same interval with a synthetic sump and one with conventional then you should have less wear materials (lead from bearings, aluminum from pistons, chrome from pistons, iron from the block, cam, crank, etc...). Especially if you work the engine harder by towing or hauling heavily and/or frequently, off roading, pulling steep grades and other taxing tasks, your engine will last longer
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34 Posts
I just use conventional oil and change it when the percent counter goes down to 10 to 5%. I am not towing anything and make many 100 mile + trips. Next month my 14 Big Horn will be 2 years old and I have 34K miles on it. BTW it is the 5.7 Hemi. I was also considering switching to synthetic but just keep going back to conventional. Maybe at the next change, I'll go synthetic?
I do all my own oil/filter changes as it's a lot more convenient than the dealer with their "Can you leave it"? or "Can you drop it off and come back at 5PM"? WTF
Who has time for that? Ridiculous!
I do all my own oil/filter changes as it's a lot more convenient than the dealer with their "Can you leave it"? or "Can you drop it off and come back at 5PM"? WTF
Who has time for that? Ridiculous!
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15,732 Posts
i have used syn since the early eighties. used only M1 until i got my hemi. that being said, dino oil has come along way since then. imho, the difference betwwen syn and a group 3 syn, has so narrowed, i am not sure there is much of a difference.
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256 Posts
Oil minder in instrument panel is just an electronic reminder to change your oil. You don't have to look at your door post or have a sticker on your windshield to remind you to change your oil. Additionally, it is programmed to account for your driving habits; you don't have to figure out which service schedule to follow.
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6 Posts
Napa Fully Synthetic
Anyone use napas fully synthetic oil. its made by valvoline and at $5 a quart a good deal. i plan on doing the oil change this weekend.
Anyone use napas fully synthetic oil. its made by valvoline and at $5 a quart a good deal. i plan on doing the oil change this weekend.
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8 Posts
Agreed. I've done the same thing on two Challengers, but I just picked this truck up two days ago. Figured I'd use the same on it as I did them.
I do spring for the Mobil 1 Extended Performance and the Mobil 1 oil filter. Apparently it's got a sort of "check valve" in it that keeps a certain amount of oil in the block. They also offer engine-replacement in the event of failure due to oil-related issues (see fine print) if you use these together at recommended intervals. They even rate it for 15,000 mile intervals between oil changes but homie ain't playin' that. http://www.mobil.com/english-US/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-Extended-Performance
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990 Posts
No there are no grease fittings that I'm aware of; just change the oil, rotate the tires and you should be good to go.
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