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Replacement wheels and tires; specific questions

15K views 36 replies 7 participants last post by  JasonWilliam  
#1 ·
Hi guys, looking for a little help here. I have a 2017 2500 Cummins Laramie Crew Cab, with the stock 18" wheels and Firestone tires. I'd like to replace both with something a hair more aggressive looking, but WITHOUT sacrificing tow ratings or on road performance. I also have no interest in adding any lift.

Offset: if I went with a different 18x9" wheel that has a 12mm offset, would that push the tire out a bit more than they are now? No issues with that and towing? No need for any additional hardware?

I'm thinking these, specifically (Ultra Maverick): https://goo.gl/io6QLA

As for tires, I've had very good success with BFGs KO2s in he past. These here: https://goo.gl/374jTr

Aby issues running these with those wheels on this truck? Towing issues?

Anything else I should know or consider? Thanks in advance.

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#3 ·
Cool thanks.

Think 12mm is enough offset? Would more be better? The goal would be to have the edge of the tire aligned with the flair (when viewed from the back or front of the truck, looking down the side). Right now they're tucked in there a good couple inches.

Also, no concerns with the tow rating going with after market wheels and tires, like this?

Thanks again.
 
#4 · (Edited)
the more negative offset you go with wheels the more strain you are putting on your hubs, bearings, etc. Just take your factory rim offset and compare it to your aftermarket wheel offset as long as they are the same width rim that will tell you how far away from stock it is going to it. So if factory offset is a 23mm(making this up) and you are going with a 12mm offset, taking into consideration the width of the rim is the same the new rims will sit 11mm towards the outside of the vehicle. Going with a 12mm is very minimal there will be no downside to the offset
 
#5 · (Edited)
I believe your factory rims are 43mm positive offset. So going to a 12mm positive offset will push the tires out farther. Here is a site with the specs for offset:

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/dodge/ram-2500/

I am running a set of Fuel Full Blown 18x9 +1mm offset rims and they fill out my Bushwacker pocket flairs nicely.

As for the tires I am shy of the B.F. Goodrich All Terrains because over at one of the diesel forums they have been hit or miss as far as being able to balance them. Some have also said that these heavy 2500/3500 trucks have not worked well with the B.F. Goodrich All Terrains.

The Toyo All Terrains seem to get good reviews from them. I went with the Toyo All Terrain II Open Country tires on my 2500 and they have been an awesome tire so far. I got the 295/70R18 Toyo's so they are just over an inch taller and an inch wider than the stock Firestone's that came on the truck. My suspension is stock and I have no rubbing anywhere. The Toyo is also a 10 ply E rated tire and is rated for 4080 pounds.

The diesel trucks are said to be an inch taller than the Hemi trucks so that gives you a little more clearance then my 2500 Hemi has. If you are just going to go with the stock tire size I would say you should be good to go with no problems at all.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Here is a site that has thousands of photos of trucks with different tires and rims, some with stock suspension most with lifts.

You can enter your information about your truck and you do not have to fill each drop down. In your case you could just put in year make and stock suspension and it will only bring rams with stock suspension in their data base.

Just choose Gallery and you will see where to enter the truck information on the left side of the screen when the Gallery opens.

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/

I don't if this link is going to work but here is the page with stock suspension Rams just keep scrolling down to see more trucks. You can click on the truck or the description of the truck and it will open up more information on that truck about the fitment and if that combination rubbed and if any trimming was needed or not.

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...com/wheel-offset-gallery?order=year&make=Ram&model=2500&suspension=Stock&page=1

As for 20 inch tire remember the bigger the rim the more expensive the tire, 17 inch will be the cheapest, then 18 inch will go up in price for the same tire and 20 inch will jump up again in price for the same tire.

That is why I stayed with 18 inch rims and the fact that the more sidewall you have on your tire the better it will help your ride. 17 inch will have a the tallest sidewall, followed by the 18 inch with the 20 inch tire having the shortest sidewall which will result in a little harder ride with the 20 inch tire.
 
#11 · (Edited)
My rims are 18x9 +1 mm offset so they are just about the same as a 0 offset rim. I have no rubbing at all on my truck however if you don't have larger fender flares the tires will stick out past the fender. I went with a set of Bushwacker pocket flares that were pre painted to match. Expensive but over all cheaper than having a set of flares painted locally.

One of the fun parts of these trucks is setting them up the way you want it. Enjoy it all and make it yours. I am thrilled with my truck, it has turned out better then I imagined.
 
#12 ·
those 276/65r20 are a good size in the sense that they are a 34" tire and out of all the possible tire sizes you would want it id by far the cheapest. take a look at the grabber at2 and the firestone destination mt also. Both good tires and about 1k or less for them
 
#13 ·
I'm currently running the Nitto G2.
I've had Toyo and BFG and they were very good.
Pretty impressed with the Nitto so far.
My size is a 285/75/17 and it looks good on my 2500.
I don't know the wheel offset but they stick out a good inch.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Quick update: Thanks to the advise here (special tip of the cap to RaceHillFarms) my wheel and tire install went perfectly. The tire shop (America's Tire/Discount Tire) had never seen these wheels before and were worried they wouldn't work, but we went ahead anyway (again thanks to the advise here), test fit and all good. No rubbing, no issues whatsoever.

Wheels: Ultra Maverick 18x9 18mm offset
Tires: Nitto Terra Grappler G2 295/70R18 (I originally wanted the Toyo, but they're on national backorder and I didn't want to wait)

They stick out about 1/2" (perfect for me) and look great IMHO. Thanks again!

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#15 ·
Quick update: Thanks to the advise here (special tip of the cap to RaceHillFarms) my wheel and tire install went perfectly. The tire shop (America's Tire/Discount Tire) had never seen these wheels before and were worried they wouldn't work, but we went ahead anyway (again thanks to the advise here), test fit and all good. No rubbing, no issues whatsoever.

Wheels: Ultra Maverick 18x9 18mm offset
Tires: Nitto Terra Grappler G2 295/70R18 (I originally wanted the Toyo, but they're on national backorder and I didn't want to wait)

They stick out about 1/2" (perfect for me) and look great IMHO. Thanks again!

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:broken-image-fighte
 
#17 · (Edited)
That looks nice, the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires are good tires, they are owned by Toyo I believe and they have changed the build of the tire improving them over the older Terra Grapplers. The older ones were not known for longevity but the new ones come with a long tread wear warranty like the Toyos do.

You made a good selection. I was torn between the Nitto Terra Grappler's and the Toyo A/T II Open Country tires but I have always wanted to try a set of the Toyo's so they won out for me. I would not hesitate to buy a set of the Terra Grapplers either.

I bought my tires from 4wheelparts and mounted them myself on my manual tire mounting machine from NoMar. They were pretty easy to mount but I did have to use the starting fluid trick and a lighter to seat them on the 9 inch wide rims but it all went quick and easy. Next time I will use just a regular valve stem as the tires have to be aired down when empty so the TPMS light is always on due to the rear tires, that and I have one sensor on the rear reading as a front tire and one sensor on the front reading as a rear tire. I bought aftermarket sensors so that may have something to do with that but even if I had the factory sensors the light would still be on due to the rear tire pressures.

I run 55 to 60 PSI in the front tires but the rear tires I have to air down to 40 PSI for even tread wear or they will wear the centers of the tread.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Thanks again Race. Good feedback. I googled around (and searched here too, of course) and reviews on the tires were positive so I figured what the hell.

And thanks too for the steer on sticking with 18"s. I think its a good balance, all things considering. With this much tire sidewall, I dont mind the ride at full PSI, either. The Raptor I had before this (heavily modified for even more serious offroading than it came from the factory) was much rougher than this, so I'm a happy camper.
 
#21 ·
Get a piece of sidewalk chalk any drug store should carry it or maybe even a hardware store. Make a line of chalk across the width of the tire from the inside to the outside. Make sure you are in a large parking lot with lots of empty space. Drive down the parking lot a ways and stop and check the chalk line. If the chalk line is gone only in the middle of the tread and you still have chalk on the outer couple of inches on each side you have to much tire pressure and need to air them down. Drop the air pressure a little at a time until you wear the chalk off the tread from side to side, note what the air pressure was and that is what you need to run when empty to keep from wearing the centers of the out.

My 2500 short bed crew cab likes 40 PSI in the rear tires empty for even tread wear. If you load the truck or tow then you will need to air up the tires again for your load.
 
#22 ·
#27 ·
Duuuuuude you just listed off several of my bucket list guns. Especially the Baer and Python. Congrats on that impressive collection!

The lady and I are Service Rifle (200, 300 and 600 yards) and Long Range shooters (1000+ yards). We're both on the hunt to go CMP Distinguished and make the President's 100 list, then we'll get serious about pistols. Long way to go before that, though.
 
#29 ·
Don't look for Colt to ever bring back the Python as it was a hand assembled firearm and it could be fussy with its timing if not taken of. There are very few gunsmiths today who are qualified to work on a Python.

Les Baer makes on of the best 1911's out there. Ed Brown 1911's are nice as well as are the Wilson 1911's. Nighthawk is good as well.
 
#30 ·
Yeah I know, that's why I'd be hesitant to buy used. I'm still holding out for a custom shop offering
 
#31 ·
A word about gun safes, when you get to the point you want a gun safe look at what you think is going to work size wise, once you have done that then walk over to the safes twice the size and pick one of those because you will quickly find that you will fill up a safe in no time.

I have a liberty safe from the Lincoln series of safes but mine is a little different than anything else in the Lincoln series for one my Lincoln series is 66" tall 36" wide and 27 1/2" deep. That is the same size as the entry level Presidential.

Liberty now and then will build a safe that is a prototype and I was lucky my local dealer happened to have one in the Lincoln series. It has a total of eighteen one inch locking pins two on the top of the door, two on the bottom of the door and seven pins on each side of the door. I also went with the manual lock that way no batteries to worry about changing. I put in the heat bar as well to control the humidity and I put in florescent lighting to go with the two halogen bulbs so I can light up the entire safe. There are four florescent light tubes in it and each one can be turned on by itself. The two halogen lights turn on as soon as the door opens.

I have a smaller Liberty safe as well that I keep all my practice ammo in with the exception of the loaded magazines and four guns ready to fire if needed, three of the 1911's and one of my Sig Sauer 9mm's. I also keep my hollow point defense ammo in the big safe with the firearms.

Remember in a safe bigger is always better.
 
#35 ·
Thanks! I'm really pleased.

Another question for the experts: what's a fair price to ask for the stock wheels and tires (tires are dismounted from the wheels, so I plan to sell each set of 4 separately)? 830 miles old. Best place to try and sell them? Probably Craigslist?
 
#36 · (Edited)
I sold my tires to a small tire shop rims and all for just 200 dollars just to get rid of them because they take up so much space but you can get much more than that for them. Mine had a little over 2700 miles on them and the rims where nothing special.

I did not want to deal with craigs list and people trying to talk down the price, I just wanted to unload them for a few dollars and be done with it. It was not like I was going to use them.

You can buy the Transforce AT brand new for 210 dollars each on line.

http://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/tires/size/18-inch/275-70-18/

I would say somewhere between 125 to 150 a piece would be fair and should move them quick.