I feel your pain !!!!!!!!!!

Going thru the same B.S Bud.!! I couldn't get the manual download either.?? Bad Link. Keep trying , someone in the forum will step up sooner or later.

 

you best do your research
in 2009 they knew the Climate Control was fuc* from the get go

i have been drinking & i am not going to look up the
RRT, etc.

but there were everything but recalls about this subject

 

i have been drinking & i am not going to look up the
RRT, etc.

Reps for that answer :smileup:

 

ok well thanks for that 411. Yes i have found plenty people with the same issue, i already know what it needs just looking for some direction as far as which way to go when disassembling my dash. I guess im gonna try the haynes see if that has anything good. Thanks

 

when mine was done under RRT, I didn't hear anything and told them I didn't want them to open it up until it starts to be a problem cause I didn't want any loose dash pieces making noise when put back together. She said it was an easy fix under the glove box area or only required removing the lower panel or something. They ended up fixing it and I couldn't tell where they went in.

 

Info is on here, just have to look around, maybe do a search. From my old post.

For those out of warranty and like to fix your own things, here is a quick guide for that clicking noise.

Chances are it is only the motor that is bad if it is clicking or thumping.
Not very hard to fix really. I think most of these cases are the motor gears stripping and not the doors themselves.

If you know how to take the center stack bezel around the radio off you are halfway there. Don't forget about the screw over the 115V out let. Take the bezel off then the two side 12V acc. plugs. Remove the ring bezel around the cup holder if equipped.

The culprit is the lower center motor, unplug remove two screws and remove.
If the gears are stripped you can position the big gear 180 out from the smaller gear. The door only travels about 120 degrees so won't hit the stripped part.

Reassemble and you should be good to go. 1 to 2 hours of your time. If you want to get a new motor it is about $40 from Chrysler.

Hopefully this is the extent of your problem.

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Good info Ramzaq, I'll be trying this tomorrow in 25 degree weather. Bad timing for this to happen.

Thanks for the pics and post!

 

nice! i love this forum. i will be fixing mine tomorrow! im in warranty, but i can do this for free (rotate it) and it saves me a 20 mile trip one way.

 

Removing the radio bezel is simple & you can see almost everything under the dash

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBE6AbNu86k

 

I had the same issue. I pulled the radio bezel out and the glove box. Once i had all that out, i turned the ignition on to see which actuator it was. It was the recirculation door, the one on the far right. I did some research and their is a recall on all of those actuators. I took the truck in (not under warranty) and the dealer replaced all 3 actuators at 0 cost.

 

i had the same issue. I pulled the radio bezel out and the glove box. Once i had all that out, i turned the ignition on to see which actuator it was. It was the recirculation door, the one on the far right. I did some research and their is a recall on all of those actuators. I took the truck in (not under warranty) and the dealer replaced all 3 actuators at 0 cost.

same here- replaced by dealer. You guys need to check them first on the actuator problems as chyrsler has been repairing them free.

 

research

im having same problem. owned my dodge since brand new. where did you do research to show about recall.
thanks

 

Fixed with wire hanger..

I fixed mine with a wire hanger. Make sure to read the comments in the video for one change I made.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_AmB7yp2fQ

 

I have a 2010 ram 3500 laramie I have replaced 2 of the accuators because no heat and knocking noise behind dash. It still knocks and still no heat how many accuators and where are they located (cold as h@#&) please help thanks

 

I have a 2010 ram 3500 laramie I have replaced 2 of the accuators because no heat and knocking noise behind dash. It still knocks and still no heat how many accuators and where are they located (cold as h@#&) please help thanks

I have the same situation with my 1500 SLT. I've replaced the two (easy) blend door actuators and the problem remains. It's like the HVAC never settles into the right position. it will go back and forth from defrost to feet then hot then cold. Where it stops nobody know. could be hot / cold / warm. like a crap shoot. William.Bigfish69 did you ever get your resolved?

 

Blend door actuator

I see this thread is about a year old but I thought I would throw my two cents in anyway just in case it will help someone... I have the same problem with my 09 and found that this is under a recall so, it shouldn't cost you anything other than your time to take it to the dealership and leave it with them for a day or more because according to the service dept they have to tear out the whole dash and it is an all day adventure but if you will do a quick search on Youtube you will find it only requires some minor dis assembly and about fifteen minutes of your time. Now what I'm not entirely sure of because I haven't done mine yet is I was informed that replacement requires some form of EVAC reprogramming. Also, the youtube videos I have watched did not indicate that there is a clocking requirement of the actuator/blend door prior to installation and it seems to me there would be....any ideas?

 

My "clicking" is coming from the passengers feet, behind glove compartment.

I have removed my center bezel, taken out the 2 actuators and checked them... They look fine.
How do I safely get to the other ones behind glove box? Any schismatic, diagram or video would be helpful.

Thanks.

 

This should help .... http://www.heatertreater.net/videos.html#ram2

 

Mine is doing the same

I noticed that my defrost is intermittent. Sometimes the air will blow out of the defrost vents, but most of the time it comes out the front facing vents. I also hear the clicking noise when I start the truck or when I move the mode switch to certain locations.

I have found the recall notice here:
http://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/pdf/K17.pdf

The relevant text of the recall:
"We are recommending the following improvements be performed on some 2009 and 2010 model year

Ram trucks.​

Recommended​

Service:​

The Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) actuator gears on​

your vehicle​

​

(VIN: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) may break and result in the inability to​

fully control the HVAC functions."

I hope that helps.

Its just going to be a pain to take mine in.

Spike

 

for the past 15 or more years, Chrysler has not made any serious changes to the Climate Control system

Kick back with your favorite beverage & go onto Youtube & type

Heater Treater Dodge
they made 3 videos mostly about how to trouble shoot your system

You can also view other ppls videos on the subject

 

The Heater treater videos do not show how to change the temperature control actuator and the recirc door actuator (there are 5 total actuators and 3 of them would take less than 30 minutes to fix). Dodge would not cover mine under the K17 recall because this was already done on the vehicle. I am handy but know nothing about cars and with the combination of the K17 document and the service manual I was able to do the work in about 5 hours. The temperature control actuator is a real bitch though to replace but you can do it without removing the entire air conditioning unit which would require draining fluids. I think if I did it again it would take me about 3 hours. So the $1500 the dealer was going to charge is crazy. It was $100 in parts.

The k17 kept mentioning calibrating the actuators so I am going to call dealer today and see if they can do this for me. It requires hooking it up to their computer.

Even without the calibration everything works well.

PS. The K17 document is a must for doing this work. It tells you exactly what Needs to be done (not necessarily how to do it, this is where the service manual is good) and what you can work around, the service manual only tells you how to remove stuff but not everything needs to be completely removed (like the steering column only needs to be dropped to the floor) and the k17 document is really helpful for this.

 

I had the knocking no heat issue. I didn't know about the recall.
The dealership had two actuators in stock. I wasn't sure which one was noisy so I bought both of them just in case. (same part number) As it turns out both of the front ones were bad. Took me about 20 minutes to replace them.

I understand there's another one or two but so far everything seems to be working good.

I think I might have the dealership check on whether it's had the recall done.
If not I'll ask if they can change the other ones.

 

My 2002 3500 has similar issue. With climate control in 12 o'clock position, one click to right you get full heat, which never regulates temp. one click to left of 12 0'clock pos. it go's to full cold and does not reg. temp. Any help out there ?

 

25 degrees? That's balmy!!! Its currently 1 degree here in MI and I just had to do the one located behind the glove box of my truck. Thankfully it was that one and not the ones behind center stack as I also have a floor console.

The one located directly behind the glovebox is a piece of cake. Just drop the box and its starting right at you towards centerline of vehicle. Took me about 20mins.

 

Hey guys!
It sounds like I have a bad actuator behind the glove box....does this one have a specific part # or are they all the same? Thanks

 

Called the dodge recall hot line,,,this is only vin specific to be covered,,,,what bs since it has already been done.....

 

Hey Everyone. Read through this entire thread and I think I fall into the same bucket here on my 2010 Ram 1500 Sport w/ Climate Control.

They Ram Customer Care said my truck was built 2 months after the affected trucks were build for that recall (go figure) and also the actuator which needs replaced is the "Right Temperature Actuator" which per the K17 is the one on the back side of the whole HVAC Unit.

Based on the feedback from dmartyna in a previous post I have the full K17 Service Instructions and I might go ahead and try fixing myself as long as I don't have to disconnect the AC & Heater lines but I was only quoted $505 to replace which might be worth it for the amount of work required.

I just want to make sure that my dealership properly diagnosted that it is the backside actuator and not the front one. I am going to take the dash off this weekend and listen for the "Clicking" because one thing that my problem seems to have different then most is that after starting the truck, it clicks for 10 seconds then stops and everything works. Heat, AC, Def, Front, Floor, etc...

If I get some more info I will share it with the group.
Thanks everyone for what you have posted so far!

 

Hey cfab, when ur blend door actuator clicks,does anything else happen like ur ac fan speed slowing?

 

paul2112, here is what happens on my truck.

When I start my Truck, the clicking happens for 10-15 seconds. During that 10-15 seconds I have no HVAC function. Once the clicking stops, I have everything working fine.

The reason I believe everything still works after the clicking, and what my dealer diagnostic said, is that the clicking is the Right Side (Passenger) Temperature Actuator. This is the blend door that you cannot see on the HVAC against the firewall. So that means I might only loose the function of different temps for Driver and Passenger Side. I did not specifically test to see if this still works or not but I believe that is why everything else functions.

Hope that helps! I am actually getting it fixed today at the Dealership for $505... Figured it was worth it as I didn't feel like taking out the entire dash after another post explained it could be done. And now I have a Warranty against the hard to get to actuator.

 

I'm having kinda the same proplem as everyone on here has had but I don't have any clicking noise, but no heat on driverside vents passenger side has heat. Would it be the same actuator right behind the glove box?