Check lGas cap, for one. Get you a cheap code reader at Amazon. I got one for 20 bucks it reads and clears codes. Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sqzXybCGPD7AK

 

If you have a CEL, the remote start will either turn the vehicle on and shut it down or not turn it on at all.

 

As long as you have the CEL the truck will shut off during remote start sequence. It's the trucks way of self preservation. Take your truck to any Auto zone and they will read the code for you free of charge. Having that code will put you on the correct path to fix the problem.

 

I have a code reader but it's in the car and my wife has it at work. I'll check the code tomorrow to see what's up. I haven't noticed anything off while driving so hopefully it's something minor.

 

Code I pulled was P018C. I attached a screen shot of what it means. Any advice? Should I be concerned?

 

P018C – Fuel Pressure Sensor “B” Circuit Low

Common Causes of P018C

The most common causes of code P018C are much the same across all applications, and could include the following-

Defective fuel pressure sensor
Damaged, burnt, shorted, disconnected, and/or corroded wiring and connectors
PCM failure is a rare event, and the fault must be sought elsewhere before any controller is replaced.

http://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p018c/

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P018C Fuel pressure sensor circuit low What usually cause a circuit low is a failed sensor which short to ground , you can clear the code and disconnect the fuel rail pressure sensor if you get a code fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high , just replace the fuel rail pressure sensor.to solve P018C.

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/qa/31647/what-does-check-engine-light-2013-dodge-check-code-p018c-mean

 

Any check engine light will disable your remote start and MDS. As far as that code you threw, it happened to me 2 months ago:

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=229939

 

Tried to save time when I called the dealer to make an appointment and told them the code I pulled. As usual my code is a complete mystery noone has ever seen before so they "have to put my truck on the computer to figure out what it means". Basically I have to pay for them to find the same code I gave them, then wait for a part, and pay more to have it installed/replaced.

Now that my warranty is up I'm considering going to local shops instead. Tired of being the first person to ever experience every problem they've ever seen at the dealership.

 

Read the thread I linked to, just order the part

 

Thank you. How confident are you that that part is what I'll need? I have an appointment for monday morning. I could probably order it today and have it in time for the appointmentime but it's $75 and I'm not sure if it's returnable.

 

I am 99% sure that is your issue given how many threads I have seen for this code where this was the solution. Also you have a 2013, and these sensor failures seem most common for 2013 and 2014s.

Obviously I can't say for sure, but I am about as sure as I can be on the internet

 

Just got back from the dealer and surprise surprise, it is that sensor. They said $250 for parts and labor and they had to order the part. Now, my question is, is this something I can do myself? Is it involved or just plug and play? Part from dealer is $110 so labor is $140 and I'd like to save that if I can do it easily myself.

 

Yeah you already spent more than you had to by going to the dealer. Definitely install it yourself. It took me 10 minutes, all you need is a flathead screwdriver and a towel to catch any spilled fuel

Or if you don't want to Ill install it for $70 for you lol. You'd be paying $140 for less than a half hour of work

 

Are there instructions or a how to anywhere? I know it's under the hood on one side with a purple wire? I can't find where I read that again.

 

I think it may have been my thread

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=229939

I posted a writeup in there but no pics as it was dark and I would have needed another arm to take pics. Once you get the part and take it out to look at it and examine how the fasteners on the fuel line work it is very simple to figure out. I disconnected the fuel rail end of the line first

 

Also, does fuel shoot out once unplugged or is it just a little that's residual in the line? Need to know if I need to rush once I get to that part. Lol

 

If you have disconnected the battery and removed the ASD relay then only what is left in the line will fall out. Just put a towel on top of the valve cover to catch it, it isnt a lot. Take your time, don't worry

 

Where is the asd relay?

 

K5(?) Position in the fuse box

 

Update:
Dealer talked me into letting them do this since I owed about $210 for the part and diagnosis and it was only about $40 more if they did it. I agreed and they ended up doing it all for free! They called Chrysler and they allowed them to do a courtesy repair. I don't know if it was because I was so close to the warranty mileage or if I was just annoying them but either way I have to admit they hooked me up this time around.

 

Well you can't beat free; at least you know what to do next time around :smileup:

 

When you did yours did you smell gas inside the truck for a while. I'm still smelling gas inside mainly when the ac turns on and I'm hoping it's normal and will go away. It's not really strong but it's definitely there.

 

Not that I remember

 

P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input

Thanks for the tip T'horse....

 

I believe you have a different problem, perhaps the fuel sending unit or something. Google the code and see what comes up:smileup:

 

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=209375&highlight=P0463

Follow this thread

 

I found this forum when I was searching for a solution to the same problem this week.
And now I've registered to ramforumz to post my FIX that corrected this problem.

My remote start also disabled and shut off after about 10 seconds, and the check engine light came on, and stayed on.

A few days before it happened, one key fob was a bit erratic - lock/unlock delayed, delayed sound/flash lamps when locking - so I thought the fob battery needed to be changed. Or, it was a keying error/or sequence thing. Before I could change the fob battery, the remote start/check engine light thing happened. I tried many suggestions I found on the internet, but the engine light wouldn't go away, and remote start kept shutting off. Journey was running fine otherwise.

Thought about taking it back to the dealership for warranty service, but not sure if this would be covered, and minimum service charge under my extended warranty is $100.00.

(PLEASE SEE COMPLETE POST BELOW FOR MY SOLUTION.....)

 

Remote Start Disabled/Check Engine Light PROBLEM FIXED FOR MY DODGE JOURNEY

I found this forum when I was searching for a solution to the same problem this week.
And now I've registered to ramforumz to post my FIX that corrected this problem.

My remote start also disabled and shut off after about 10 seconds, and the check engine light came on, and stayed on.

A few days before it happened, one key fob was a bit erratic - lock/unlock delayed, delayed horn/flash lamps when locking - so I thought the fob battery needed to be changed. Or, it was a keying error/or sequence thing. Before I could change the fob battery, the remote start/check engine light thing happened. I tried many suggestions I found on the internet, but the engine light wouldn't go away, and remote start kept shutting off. Journey was running fine otherwise.

Thought about taking it back to the dealership for warranty service, but not sure if this would be covered, and minimum service charge under my extended warranty is $100.00.

So, here's what I tried and IT WORKED:

I changed the battery in the erratic key fob first.
When I gave it some thought, I decided to do the OPPOSITE of what I'd done when the problem occurred. If I was OUTSIDE the car and pressed remote start with the door(s) closed, I decided to GET INSIDE THE CAR AND PRESS REMOTE START WITH A DOOR OPEN.

The engine light turned off immediately.
Remote start works as it should.
All is back to normal 3 days later.
And I didn't spend a penny.

Not bad for a grandmother of 3 from London, Ontario who likes to save money, eh?

Hope this works for you.

 

You are a fucking genius. Thought of giving it a try and surprisingly it worked. Thankyou for saving my time and money. 🫡

 

Remote Start Disabled/Check Engine Light Fix

Please see previous post for my solution.